{"meta":{"version":"2.1","_links":{"self":{"href":"https://api.vam.ac.uk/v2/object/O90043"},"collection_page":{"href":"https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O90043/"}},"images":{"_primary_thumbnail":"https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2015HR6952/full/!100,100/0/default.jpg","_iiif_image":"https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2015HR6952/","_alt_iiif_image":[],"imageResolution":"high","_images_meta":[{"assetRef":"2015HR6952","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2015HR6953","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2015HR6949","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2014HA5566","copyright":"©Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2014HA5260","copyright":"©Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2014HA5567","copyright":"©Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2010EB3066","copyright":"©Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2010EB2781","copyright":"©Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2006AF4289","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2010EB3065","copyright":"©Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2010EB3064","copyright":"©Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2010EB2929","copyright":"©Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2010EB2928","copyright":"©Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2010EB2776","copyright":"©Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2010EB2775","copyright":"©Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2010EB2774","copyright":"©Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2010EB2773","copyright":"©Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2010EB2772","copyright":"©Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2010EB2769","copyright":"©Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2010EB2768","copyright":"©Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2010EB2767","copyright":"©Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2010EB2766","copyright":"©Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2010EB2765","copyright":"©Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2006AF4288","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false}]},"see_also":{"_iiif_pres":"https://iiif.vam.ac.uk/collections/O90043/manifest.json","_alt_iiif_pres":[]}},"record":{"systemNumber":"O90043","accessionNumber":"T.99-1967","objectType":"Collar","titles":[],"summaryDescription":"Lace was among the most highly prized and expensive of all textiles in the 17th century, with its main centres of production in Italy and Flanders. The Flemish industry had a skilled work force and produced the finest linen thread. It was proficient at both following and anticipating the market, including the exacting demands of the French nobility, and benefited from its geographical position and contact with trade routes. \r\n\r\nFlemish bobbin lace was the major fashion lace between the 1630s and the 1660s. It held its position by undergoing a series of changes; from the 1630s onwards, the trade was able to produce whatever lace was applicable to the current fashion. The pot of flowers motif, particularly popular in that decade, was perfectly suited to the deep scallops which decorated falling bands. The size of scallops subsequently diminished, to become a straight edge by the mid 1650s. Wide falling bands were replaced in men’s wear by bib-fronted bands, and for women by deep bands (collars) which displayed perfectly the subtle patterns of Flemish bobbin lace,  like this example. ","physicalDescription":"Band (collar) of linen trimmed with bobbin lace. Linen foundation to fit the neck, shaped and decorated with narrow darts, and trimmed with a deep border of finely worked bobbin lace with a dense floral design. Fastening with two worked loops at the neck edge centre front, through which band strings would have been threaded and tied.\nThe front straight edges are of a technically similar but slightly larger scale bobbin lace, approx 32 mm wide.","artistMakerPerson":[{"name":{"text":"Unknown","id":"A1848"},"association":{"text":"","id":""},"note":""}],"artistMakerOrganisations":[],"artistMakerPeople":[],"materials":[],"techniques":[{"text":"bobbin lace making","id":"x30355"},{"text":"hand sewing","id":"AAT257459"}],"materialsAndTechniques":"Linen with bobbin lace worked in linen thread","categories":[{"text":"Lace","id":"THES48926"},{"text":"Textiles","id":"THES48885"},{"text":"Clothing","id":"THES48975"},{"text":"Accessories","id":"THES48998"},{"text":"Europeana Fashion Project","id":"THES265804"}],"styles":[],"collectionCode":{"text":"T&F","id":"THES48601"},"images":["2015HR6952","2015HR6953","2015HR6949","2014HA5566","2014HA5260","2014HA5567","2010EB3066","2010EB2781","2006AF4289","2010EB3065","2010EB3064","2010EB2929","2010EB2928","2010EB2776","2010EB2775","2010EB2774","2010EB2773","2010EB2772","2010EB2769","2010EB2768","2010EB2767","2010EB2766","2010EB2765","2006AF4288"],"imageResolution":"high","galleryLocations":[{"current":{"text":"7","id":"THES263054"},"free":"","case":"16","shelf":"","box":""}],"partTypes":[[{"text":"Band","id":"AAT217242"}],[{"text":"Collar (neckwear)","id":"AAT210058"}]],"contentWarnings":[{"apprise":"No","note":""}],"placesOfOrigin":[{"place":{"text":"Flanders","id":"THES252813"},"association":{"text":"made","id":"x28654"},"note":""}],"productionDates":[{"date":{"text":"1650-1665","earliest":"1650-01-01","latest":"1665-12-31"},"association":{"text":"made","id":"x28654"},"note":""}],"associatedObjects":[],"creditLine":"","dimensions":[{"dimension":"Height","value":"26.5","unit":"cm","qualifier":"Maximum","date":{"text":"04/02/2022","earliest":"2022-02-04","latest":"2022-02-04"},"part":"Height measured at back, on mount","note":""},{"dimension":"Depth","value":"25.5","unit":"cm","qualifier":"Maximum","date":{"text":"04/02/2022","earliest":"2022-02-04","latest":"2022-02-04"},"part":"Depth of lace, on mount","note":""},{"dimension":"Width","value":"68.5","unit":"cm","qualifier":"maximum","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"Width, measured flat","note":""},{"dimension":"Width","value":"57","unit":"cm","qualifier":"Maximum","date":{"text":"04/02/2022","earliest":"2022-02-04","latest":"2022-02-04"},"part":"Width of collar, on mount","note":""}],"dimensionsNote":"","marksAndInscriptions":[],"objectHistory":"The collar was included as part of the contents of an embroidered casket purchased by the museum, T.98-1967. \r\nFor further very detailed description see North and Tiramani 2012.","historicalContext":"The contemporary name for this type of neckwear would have been a band; the word collar was used in the 17th century for something that was integral to a garment (for example the collar to a doublet).\n\nLace was among the most highly prized and expensive of all textiles in the 17th century. From the main centres of production in Italy and Flanders it was traded widely across Europe, and the industry responded quickly to changes in fashionable dress, as different styles came in and out of  favour.\n\nBy the 1630s, Flemish bobbin lace, with its fine draping qualities, dominated the market. The Flemish industry had a skilled work force and produced the finest linen thread. It was proficient at both following and anticipating the market, including the exacting demands of the French nobility, and benefited from its geographical position and contact with trade routes. Most Italian bobbin lace in this period was fairly heavy, used for furnishings, vestments, the trimming of heavy velvet clothes and large collars. By contrast Flemish bobbin lace was light and delicate, made with finer thread, and more open patterns. In the age of cutwork early in the century it had been a cheaper option, but now its elaborate designs and fine threads made the best-quality pieces as expensive as Italian needle lace. \r\n\r\nFlemish bobbin lace remained the major fashion lace until the 1660s. It held its position by undergoing a series of changes; from the 1630s onwards, the trade was able to produce whatever lace was applicable to the current fashion. The pot of flowers motif, particularly popular in that decade, was perfectly suited to the deep scallops which decorated falling bands. The size of scallops subsequently diminished, to become a straight edge by the mid 1650s. Wide falling bands were replaced in men’s wear by bib-fronted bands, and for women by deep collars, which displayed perfectly the subtle patterns of Flemish bobbin lace like this example. ","briefDescription":"Collar or band of linen with bobbin lace, F, Flanders, 1650-1665","bibliographicReferences":[{"reference":{"text":"","id":""},"details":"","free":"Seventeenth-Century Women's Dress Patterns, vol.2, ed. Susan North and Jenny Tiramani, V&A Publishing, 2012, p.122"},{"reference":{"text":"","id":""},"details":"","free":"Lace from the Victoria and Albert Museum, by Clare Browne, 2004, pl. 20"}],"production":"Flemish","productionType":{"text":"","id":""},"contentDescription":"","contentPlaces":[],"associatedPlaces":[],"contentPerson":[],"associatedPerson":[],"contentOrganisations":[],"associatedOrganisations":[],"contentPeople":[],"associatedPeople":[],"contentEvents":[],"associatedEvents":[],"contentOthers":[],"contentConcepts":[],"contentLiteraryRefs":[],"galleryLabels":[],"partNumbers":["T.99-1967"],"accessionNumberNum":"99","accessionNumberPrefix":"T","accessionYear":1967,"otherNumbers":[],"copyNumber":"","aspects":["WHOLE"],"assets":["2019LN1680","2019LR4812","2019LU6564","2019LU1599"],"recordModificationDate":"2025-04-07","recordCreationDate":"2004-01-27","availableToBook":false}}