{"meta":{"version":"2.1","_links":{"self":{"href":"https://api.vam.ac.uk/v2/object/O89316"},"collection_page":{"href":"https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O89316/"}},"images":{"_primary_thumbnail":"https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2019LP1286/full/!100,100/0/default.jpg","_iiif_image":"https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2019LP1286/","_alt_iiif_image":[],"imageResolution":"low","_images_meta":[{"assetRef":"2019LP1286","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2019LP1278","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false}]},"see_also":null},"record":{"systemNumber":"O89316","accessionNumber":"T.135-1985","objectType":"Kuba cloth","titles":[{"title":"Kuba cloth","type":""}],"summaryDescription":"Kuba is a cloth of handwoven raffia palm fibres, often embroidered, dyed, appliqued or otherwise decorated in distinctive geometric patterns after the weaving process. Originating from the ancient Kuba kingdom of central Africa, the cloth is produced by the Kuba in the region that is today the Democratic Republic of the Congo. The plain weave raffia ground of Kuba cloth is typically filled with a complex pattern of interlocking angular motifs. This is commonly achieved through a cut-pile technique using natural and dyed fibres. Designs are firstly stitched onto the cloth before raffia fibre is drawn through with a needle and closely cut to make a dense pile, creating a plush, velvet-like effect. Areas of cut-pile can be complemented by uncut topstitch embroidery, again in raffia, adding to the textural interest of the cloth.\r\n\r\nThe production of Kuba cloth traditionally followed a gendered division – the ground cloth being woven by men using a single-heddle loom, whilst the decorative application of pattern by fine needlework was completed by women. At first glance, many Kuba cloth designs appear to bear regular repeat patterns. Irregularities are however the norm, thought to be a product of the individual embroiderer's inventiveness, as she introduces variety into the huge repertoire of existing named designs that are familiar to many. Once completed, Kuba cloth can be fashioned into garments or used within a domestic setting, acting as an indicator of status and wealth. In fact, the prestigious Kuba cloth was historically used as a form of currency within Kuba society.","physicalDescription":"Fragment of embroidered raffia which could be used as dress fabric, as a blanket or as a covering for a stool or chair. The tabby ground is woven and then the geometric design is embroidered using dyed palm fibres in shades of yellow and dark brown. An iron needle is used to thread the lightly twisted fibres through the ground, and both ends appear on the surface. A small knife with a flattened blade is used to cut the thread so that only a few millimetres remain visible. This panel is divided into two halves by two vertical lines of stitches and each half is then divided into diamonds. The sides have been turned under and stitched, as have the top and bottom ends.","artistMakerPerson":[{"name":{"text":"Unknown","id":"A1848"},"association":{"text":"","id":""},"note":""}],"artistMakerOrganisations":[],"artistMakerPeople":[],"materials":[{"text":"raffia","id":"AAT14051"}],"techniques":[{"text":"weaving","id":"AAT53642"},{"text":"embroidering","id":"AAT53653"},{"text":"hand sewing","id":"AAT257459"}],"materialsAndTechniques":"Embroidered raffia with a tabby woven ground and stitched","categories":[{"text":"Africa","id":"THES49019"},{"text":"Textiles","id":"THES48885"}],"styles":[],"collectionCode":{"text":"T&F","id":"THES48601"},"images":["2019LP1286","2019LP1278"],"imageResolution":"low","galleryLocations":[{"current":{"text":"013","id":"THES392790"},"free":"","case":"","shelf":"","box":""}],"partTypes":[[{"text":"Fragment; raffia","id":""}]],"contentWarnings":[{"apprise":"","note":""}],"placesOfOrigin":[{"place":{"text":"Congo","id":"x37740"},"association":{"text":"made","id":"x28654"},"note":""}],"productionDates":[{"date":{"text":"1900-1949","earliest":"1900-01-01","latest":"1949-12-31"},"association":{"text":"made","id":"x28654"},"note":""}],"associatedObjects":[],"creditLine":"Given by the late John Compton","dimensions":[{"dimension":"Length","value":"67.5","unit":"cm","qualifier":"Maximum","date":{"text":"11/08/2021","earliest":"2021-08-11","latest":"2021-08-11"},"part":"","note":""},{"dimension":"Width","value":"60.5","unit":"cm","qualifier":"Maximum","date":{"text":"11/08/2021","earliest":"2021-08-11","latest":"2021-08-11"},"part":"","note":""}],"dimensionsNote":"Measured by conservation","marksAndInscriptions":[],"objectHistory":"Registered File number 1985/166. Sometimes this fabric is improperly called 'Kasai velvet' because of the pile surface. Kasai is the river along which the Bakuba live. The tabby ground is woven by men and then the geometric design is embroidered by women using dyed palm fibres in shades of yellow and dark brown. Great value is place on these cloths and wearing one of them is a mark of high prestige.\r\n","historicalContext":"","briefDescription":"Kuba cloth, raffia, Congo, 1900-1949","bibliographicReferences":[{"reference":{"text":"","id":""},"details":"","free":"Picton, John and John Mack. <u>African Textiles</u>. London: The British Museum, 1979."}],"production":"Bakuba people","productionType":{"text":"","id":""},"contentDescription":"","contentPlaces":[],"associatedPlaces":[],"contentPerson":[],"associatedPerson":[],"contentOrganisations":[],"associatedOrganisations":[],"contentPeople":[],"associatedPeople":[],"contentEvents":[],"associatedEvents":[],"contentOthers":[{"text":"geometric patterns","id":"AAT165213"}],"contentConcepts":[],"contentLiteraryRefs":[],"galleryLabels":[],"partNumbers":["T.135-1985"],"accessionNumberNum":"135","accessionNumberPrefix":"T","accessionYear":1985,"otherNumbers":[],"copyNumber":"","aspects":["WHOLE"],"assets":[],"recordModificationDate":"2025-07-03","recordCreationDate":"2004-01-13","availableToBook":false}}