{"meta":{"version":"2.1","_links":{"self":{"href":"https://api.vam.ac.uk/v2/object/O89066"},"collection_page":{"href":"https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O89066/"}},"images":{"_primary_thumbnail":"https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2019LX8919/full/!100,100/0/default.jpg","_iiif_image":"https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2019LX8919/","_alt_iiif_image":[],"imageResolution":"high","_images_meta":[{"assetRef":"2019LX8919","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2019LX8920","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2006AF5787","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2006AF5786","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false}]},"see_also":{"_iiif_pres":"https://iiif.vam.ac.uk/collections/O89066/manifest.json","_alt_iiif_pres":[]}},"record":{"systemNumber":"O89066","accessionNumber":"T.264-1990","objectType":"Dress","titles":[{"title":"Dress","type":""}],"summaryDescription":"When the straight sleeve of this dress is extended to its full length the lower edge of the black and blue embroidered panel is trimmed with a bright red strip of plush. When it is turned back to form a cuff, however, an entirely different effect is revealed: the lower part of each sleeve has been faced with a band of cotton velvet richly embroidered with wool and trimmed with a metal braid, pink glass beads and pink sequins. The thickly fringed cotton collar of this dress has been similarly decorated with short lengths of commercially produced trimmings: facings of fine red felt printed with silver, woven braid with an added line of rickrack, a pretty net and crochet edging with an added row of delicate pink glass beads and, finally, an assortment of odd beads loosely strung so that they hang in clusters. \r\n\r\nSuch decorations were mass-produced in large urban centres and followed the prevailing fashions. Where they decorate a traditional peasant dress they have usually been applied sparingly, because of their relative expense. In this example there was not enough embroidered velvet to make complete facings and 3.5 cm gaps have been cleverly positioned on the inside of each sleeve, where they would not be seen.","physicalDescription":"Woman's dress of cotton embroidered with wool. The dress is cut from thick hand-woven linen except where one piece of machine-woven material is used in each sleeve. The pattern pieces are rectangular with the addition of four triangular insertions to give fullness near the hem. The neck is round with a front centre slit, and a stand-up collar has been attached. There is a panel of hemp 14 inches wide (36 cms) loosely attached inside the centre back, across the shoulders and neck (as a facing) and part of the way down the centre front. A thick woollen facing has been attached inside the hem - it is absent along the centre front but it is not clear whether it has become detached or whether it was ever there.\r\n\r\nTwo types of embroidery. The first is traditionally arranged in blue, black and red wool along the hem, the top half of the sleeves and along seam lines, and with additional vertical lines added. The second type consists of extensive decoration of the inner sleeve with the application of a 5 inches (13 cms) deep band of black velvet on which sprays of flowers and scrolling stems have been worked with coloured wool in chain and pile stitches. This is edged with a braid of beads, silver threads and pink sequins, and then with a strip of red tufts.\r\n\r\nThere are pieces of embroidered linen applied to either side of the neck opening decorated with star-like motifs worked with coloured wools and gold thread. An elaborate collar has been added. This is based on a very thick white cotton fringe trimmed with a series of edgings consisting of a knotted fringe, a beaded fringe, two types of braid and a string of glass beads. There is also a facing of red cotton with a printed geometric design in silver.","artistMakerPerson":[{"name":{"text":"Unknown","id":"A1848"},"association":{"text":"","id":""},"note":""}],"artistMakerOrganisations":[],"artistMakerPeople":[],"materials":[{"text":"cotton (textile)","id":"AAT14067"},{"text":"wool yarn","id":"x30441"},{"text":"linen (material)","id":"AAT14069"},{"text":"metal thread","id":"x30421"},{"text":"glass-beads","id":"x35177"}],"techniques":[{"text":"hand weaving","id":"AAT53643"},{"text":"embroidered","id":"AAT53653"},{"text":"velvet weave","id":"x46483"}],"materialsAndTechniques":"Cotton and hand-woven linen, machine-woven material and hemp, embroidered with wool and velvet, silver and gold threads and glass beads","categories":[{"text":"Folk Art","id":"THES49003"},{"text":"Womenswear","id":"THES49044"},{"text":"Embroidery","id":"THES48960"},{"text":"Textiles","id":"THES48885"},{"text":"Europeana Fashion Project","id":"THES265804"}],"styles":[],"collectionCode":{"text":"T&F","id":"THES48601"},"images":["2019LX8919","2019LX8920","2006AF5787","2006AF5786"],"imageResolution":"high","galleryLocations":[{"current":{"text":"010","id":"THES390092"},"free":"","case":"","shelf":"","box":""}],"partTypes":[[{"text":"Dress","id":""}]],"contentWarnings":[{"apprise":"","note":""}],"placesOfOrigin":[{"place":{"text":"Skopska Crna Gora","id":"x37712"},"association":{"text":"made","id":"x28654"},"note":""}],"productionDates":[{"date":{"text":"1870-1899","earliest":"1870-01-01","latest":"1899-12-31"},"association":{"text":"made","id":"x28654"},"note":""}],"associatedObjects":[],"creditLine":"Given by Mrs Lucy Duke Kinne","dimensions":[{"dimension":"Length","value":"51.5","unit":"in","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"centre back","note":""},{"dimension":"Length","value":"131","unit":"cm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"centre back","note":""},{"dimension":"Width","value":"39","unit":"in","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"hem","note":""},{"dimension":"Width","value":"99","unit":"cm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"hem","note":""},{"dimension":"Width","value":"59","unit":"in","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"across the shoulders","note":""},{"dimension":"Width","value":"150","unit":"cm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"across the shoulders","note":""}],"dimensionsNote":"","marksAndInscriptions":[],"objectHistory":"Registered File number 1990/1082.\r\n\r\nMost of the trimmings are Austrian in origin and would have been bought in markets or from pedlars.","historicalContext":"","briefDescription":"Woman's dress of cotton embroidered with wool, made in Skopska Crna Gora, 1870-1899","bibliographicReferences":[{"reference":{"text":"Crill R, Wearden JM, Wilson V, Victoria and Albert Museum. Dress in Detail from around the World. London: V&A Publications, 2002.","id":"AUTH333338"},"details":"pp.80, 216","free":""}],"production":"","productionType":{"text":"","id":""},"contentDescription":"","contentPlaces":[],"associatedPlaces":[],"contentPerson":[],"associatedPerson":[],"contentOrganisations":[],"associatedOrganisations":[],"contentPeople":[],"associatedPeople":[],"contentEvents":[],"associatedEvents":[],"contentOthers":[],"contentConcepts":[],"contentLiteraryRefs":[],"galleryLabels":[],"partNumbers":["T.264-1990"],"accessionNumberNum":"264","accessionNumberPrefix":"T","accessionYear":1990,"otherNumbers":[],"copyNumber":"","aspects":["WHOLE"],"assets":[],"recordModificationDate":"2026-03-13","recordCreationDate":"2004-01-09","availableToBook":true}}