{"meta":{"version":"2.1","_links":{"self":{"href":"https://api.vam.ac.uk/v2/object/O88644"},"collection_page":{"href":"https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O88644/"}},"images":{"_primary_thumbnail":"https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2006BD5592/full/!100,100/0/default.jpg","_iiif_image":"https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2006BD5592/","_alt_iiif_image":[],"imageResolution":"low","_images_meta":[{"assetRef":"2006BD5592","copyright":"©Victoria and Albert Museum, London/Mariano Fortuny","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2006BF3300","copyright":"©Victoria and Albert Museum, London/Mariano Fortuny","sensitiveImage":false}]},"see_also":null},"record":{"systemNumber":"O88644","accessionNumber":"T.174&A-1967","objectType":"Delphos dress","titles":[{"title":"Delphos","type":"assigned by artist"}],"summaryDescription":"<b>The ‘Delphos’  </b>\r\n\r\n‘Delphos’ dresses were produced in Venice, Italy from 1907 until well into the twentieth century, and were sold in Mariano Fortuny shops in various European capitals. Mariano Fortuny garments also became available, in Paris, France, through Vitaldi Babani, who was born into an Istanbul (Turkey) Jewish family and set up the Parisian shop Babani in 1894, and the French fashion designer Paul Poiret. 'Delphos' dresses are made from finely pleated silk, often in one block colour. They typically feature beads made of Venetian glass, used for decoration and weighting and/or as fixings.   \r\n\r\nFor decades these gowns were thought to have been designed by Mariano Fortuny (Mariano Fortuny y Madrazo, Marià Fortuny i de Madrazo, 1871-1949), a Spanish designer based in Venice. More recently evidence has emerged that suggests that Henriette Nigrin (or Negrin, 1877-1965)—a French inventor and designer who was living and working with Fortuny in Venice—was largely if not wholly responsible for the creation of the ‘Delphos’. Comments Fortuny made on a copy of a patent application for the dress’s pleating system acknowledge Nigrin (here referred to as Madame Henrietta Brassart, Brassart being Nigrin’s mother’s surname) as the inventor of this system, which was patented in 1909. The way in which Nigrin described her relationship with ‘Delphos’ dresses suggests that her involvement went beyond the invention of the permanent pleating method, that she was wholly or at least largely responsible for the design.   \r\n\r\nThe pleating method was innovative, but the ‘Delphos’ also looked to the past, in particular early Greece, which had inspired earlier artistic dress reformers in places including Britain and the United States. The dress was modelled on chitons and named after ‘The Charioteer of Delphi’, a bronze statue of a charioteer wearing a chiton produced in Early Classical Greece. The ‘Delphos’ is striking for its chiton-inspired column-like shape, achieved by hand-sewing narrow widths of pleated silk together to form a tube. The chiton’s folds were conducive to free movement, while the ‘Delphos’’s pleats made these dresses elastic, clinging but non-restrictive. The pleats can also be seen to simulate the chiton’s draped quality. Chitons were held in place by <i>fibulae </i>(brooches) at the shoulders and belts at the waist. Comparably, ‘Delphos’ often feature Venetian glass beads around the shoulders and elsewhere, sometimes as fixings, belts, usually of stencilled silk or cord and beads, and concealed drawstrings.   \r\n\r\nIn the early twentieth century in places including Italy, France, and the United States, ‘Delphos’ dresses were considered daring and/or desirable due to their relative informality and clinging yet fluid nature. French stage actor Sarah Bernhardt and Isadora Duncan, a dancer from the United States, were among the first to wear the ‘Delphos’. Other women who could afford these expensive garments began to adopt them as informal tea gowns, but later the ‘Delphos’ became more acceptable for evening wear outside the home. They remained in fashion until around the 1930s, but continued to be produced beyond this time.  \n\n<b>This ‘Delphos’ </b>\r\n\r\nThis dress is made of mid-blue silk and has a silk girdle cord with Venetian glass beads. This particular ‘Delphos’ was worn by Emilie Grigsby, a wealthy independent North American woman who came to England from New York in the United States.  \r\n\r\n<b>Henriette Nigrin (1877-1965) and Mariano Fortuny (1871-1949)   </b>\r\n\r\nHenriette Nigrin (or Negrin) was born in Fontainebleau, Paris, France in 1877. She was named Adèle Henriette Elisabeth but went by Henriette. Nigrin married her first husband, Jean Eusèbe León Bellorgeot, in Fontainebleau in 1897. She also lived in Marlotte (now Bourron-Marlotte) and is said to have been an artist’s model in Paris. Nigrin’s first marriage was terminated in 1902, the year Nigrin moved to Venice, Italy to be with Mariano Fortuny (Mariano Fortuny y Madrazo, Marià Fortuny i de Madrazo). The couple, who got married in Paris in 1924, would be romantic and creative partners until Fortuny’s death in 1949. Fortuny was born in Granada, Spain in 1871 and studied to be a painter in Paris. He moved to Venice in 1889 and lived there for the rest of his life, while maintaining his Spanish nationality. As well as being a painter, the multi-talented Fortuny was, amongst other things, a lighting engineer and set designer, but he remains best known as a textiles and fashion designer, whose garments were popular with wealthy avant-garde women in places including Italy, France, and the United States from around 1910 to the 1930s. Clients included French stage actor Sarah Bernhardt and Isadora Duncan, a dancer from the United States. Nigrin is increasingly recognised to have played an important part in designing these textiles and garments, the ‘Delphos’ in particular.   \r\n\r\n\r\nNote: In October 2021 the catalogue records for the ‘Delphos’ dresses in the V&amp;A collection were updated to incorporate recent research on Henriette Nigrin. Prior to this, the ‘Delphos’ dresses in the collection were catalogued as designed by Mariano Fortuny.  ","physicalDescription":"Blue pleated silk Delphos dress with a silk girdle cord with Venetian glass beads.\n\nThe dress has a V-neck and short sleeves cut in one with the bodice. The waist is high, defined inside by a cord drawstring and outside by stitched slots for the cord belt. The skirt is long and trained. The dress fastens with small oval buttons at the shoulders and is trimmed at the centre back neck with an amber glass button through which the belt passes. A grey silk ribbon is stitched from the shoulder to the waist at the front and the right is marked with the maker's name\n\nThe girdle belt is made from blue silk cord knotted at intervals with brown glass beads. It is double and shapes the dress by having one length threaded through the inside with the ends emerging at the centre front and the other emerging at the centre back, and the other length emerging at the centre back and going through loops to fasten with the other at the centre front.","artistMakerPerson":[{"name":{"text":"Henriette Nigrin","id":"AUTH372710"},"association":{"text":"designer","id":"x36960"},"note":"and inventor of pleating process"},{"name":{"text":"Fortuny, Mariano","id":"A2154"},"association":{"text":"designed for","id":"x41471"},"note":""}],"artistMakerOrganisations":[],"artistMakerPeople":[],"materials":[{"text":"silk (textile)","id":"AAT243428"}],"techniques":[{"text":"pleating","id":"AAT228556"},{"text":"hand sewing","id":"AAT257459"}],"materialsAndTechniques":"Pleated silk, glass beads and button, silk ribbon, hand-sewn","categories":[{"text":"Fashion","id":"THES48957"},{"text":"Textiles","id":"THES48885"},{"text":"Womenswear","id":"THES49044"},{"text":"Evening wear","id":"THES48999"}],"styles":[],"collectionCode":{"text":"T&F","id":"THES48601"},"images":["2006BD5592","2006BF3300"],"imageResolution":"low","galleryLocations":[{"current":{"text":"001","id":"THES305810"},"free":"","case":"","shelf":"","box":""},{"current":{"text":"001","id":"THES305810"},"free":"","case":"","shelf":"","box":""}],"partTypes":[[{"text":"dress","id":"AAT46159"}],[{"text":"girdle (belt)","id":"AAT220741"}]],"contentWarnings":[{"apprise":"","note":""},{"apprise":"","note":""},{"apprise":"","note":""}],"placesOfOrigin":[{"place":{"text":"Venice","id":"x29237"},"association":{"text":"designed and made","id":"x39722"},"note":""}],"productionDates":[{"date":{"text":"1909-1920","earliest":"1909-01-01","latest":"1920-12-31"},"association":{"text":"designed and made","id":"x39722"},"note":""}],"associatedObjects":[],"creditLine":"","dimensions":[],"dimensionsNote":"","marksAndInscriptions":[],"objectHistory":"This dress was worn by Emilie Grigsby (1876-1964) who was a wealthy independent North American woman who came to England from New York in the United States. She established a salon which was frequented by writers and the military. She was considered to be one of the great international beauties, with extremely pale, almost transparent skin and golden hair. She was frequently the subject of articles in the <i>New York Times</i> during the early 20th century. Her clothes were purchased from couturiers in London (England), Paris (France), and New York, and demonstrated an elegantly avant-garde approach to style.\n\nThe Registered Description states that the dress was 'Exhibited in <u>Fashion 1900-1939</u>. Exhibited in Royal Scottish Museum, Edinburgh from 19 December 1976 - 27 January 1976 and at the V&amp;A from 25 March to 9 May 1976.'","historicalContext":"","briefDescription":"‘Delphos’, dress, permanently pleated silk, designed by Henriette Nigrin, possibly with Mariano Fortuny, for Mariano Fortuny, Venice, Italy, 1909-1920, mid-blue pleated silk dress, silk girdle cord with Venetian glass beads, worn by Emilie Grigsby","bibliographicReferences":[{"reference":{"text":"","id":""},"details":"","free":"Silvia Bañares, 'A Short Biographical Note on Henriette Nigrin, Creator of Delphos', <i>Data</i><b>tèxtil </b>36 (2017), 73–84. "},{"reference":{"text":"","id":""},"details":"","free":"Palais Galliera, <i>Fortuny, un Espagnol à Venise, 04.10.2017 – 07.01.2018, Summary</i>, dp_fortuny_eng_bdef.pdf (paris.fr). "},{"reference":{"text":"","id":""},"details":"","free":"Linsey Labson, ‘Babani: Life and Legacy of a Forgotten Designer, 1894–1935’ (2021). Paper shared with the V&A by the author."}],"production":"","productionType":{"text":"","id":""},"contentDescription":"","contentPlaces":[],"associatedPlaces":[],"contentPerson":[],"associatedPerson":[],"contentOrganisations":[],"associatedOrganisations":[],"contentPeople":[],"associatedPeople":[],"contentEvents":[],"associatedEvents":[],"contentOthers":[],"contentConcepts":[],"contentLiteraryRefs":[],"galleryLabels":[],"partNumbers":["T.174-1967","T.174A-1967"],"accessionNumberNum":"174","accessionNumberPrefix":"T","accessionYear":1967,"otherNumbers":[],"copyNumber":"","aspects":["WHOLE","'Delphos' dress","girdle (belt)"],"assets":[],"recordModificationDate":"2025-07-31","recordCreationDate":"2004-01-07","availableToBook":true}}