{"meta":{"version":"2.1","_links":{"self":{"href":"https://api.vam.ac.uk/v2/object/O88627"},"collection_page":{"href":"https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O88627/"}},"images":{"_primary_thumbnail":"https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2006AV6051/full/!100,100/0/default.jpg","_iiif_image":"https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2006AV6051/","_alt_iiif_image":[],"imageResolution":"low","_images_meta":[{"assetRef":"2006AV6051","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false}]},"see_also":null},"record":{"systemNumber":"O88627","accessionNumber":"T.87&A-1974","objectType":"Evening dress","titles":[],"summaryDescription":"Chanel created extravagant evening wear such as this sequinned dress and cape. The combination of glistening black sequins and scarlet satin panels is very dramatic. The rows of overlapping 'fish-scale' sequins emphasise the supple, falling lines of the outfit. The short, semi-circular cape has a scarlet satin lining.\r\n\r\nMrs Leo d'Erlanger wore this ensemble, which forms part of the Cecil Beaton Collection. Sir Cecil Beaton was a society photographer. With great energy and determination Beaton contacted the well-dressed élite of Europe and North America to help create this monument to the art of dress. The Collection was exhibited in 1971, accompanied by a catalogue that detailed its enormous range.","physicalDescription":"Full length evening dress and cape of black net entirely covered with overlapping black sequins, and with a crimson satin double waistband and gores inset into the skirt. With a short and semi-circular shoulder cape of crimson silk satin with the outside entirely covered in overlapping black sequins as with the dress.\n\nDress with a sleeveless bodice and decolleté with straps. Side gusset of red scarlet. Side hook fastening attached to the bodice, and at the waist is a boned foundation panel. \n\nThe cape is lined with red satin. Round neck and hook fastening.\n","artistMakerPerson":[{"name":{"text":"Coco Chanel","id":"A2068"},"association":{"text":"designer","id":"x36960"},"note":""}],"artistMakerOrganisations":[{"name":{"text":"Chanel","id":"A4468"},"association":{"text":"fashion house","id":"x35890"},"note":""},{"name":{"text":"Chanel","id":"A4468"},"association":{"text":"made and retailed by","id":"x37726"},"note":""}],"artistMakerPeople":[],"materials":[],"techniques":[],"materialsAndTechniques":"Silk satin and net embroidered with sequins, lined with satin","categories":[{"text":"Fashion","id":"THES48957"},{"text":"Womenswear","id":"THES49044"},{"text":"Evening wear","id":"THES48999"}],"styles":[],"collectionCode":{"text":"T&F","id":"THES48601"},"images":["2006AV6051"],"imageResolution":"low","galleryLocations":[{"current":{"text":"001","id":"THES404988"},"free":"","case":"","shelf":"","box":""},{"current":{"text":"001","id":"THES404988"},"free":"","case":"","shelf":"","box":""}],"partTypes":[[{"text":"Evening dress","id":""}],[{"text":"Evening Cape","id":""}]],"contentWarnings":[{"apprise":"","note":""},{"apprise":"","note":""},{"apprise":"","note":""}],"placesOfOrigin":[{"place":{"text":"Paris","id":"x29068"},"association":{"text":"made","id":"x28654"},"note":""}],"productionDates":[{"date":{"text":"1937","earliest":"1937-01-01","latest":"1937-12-31"},"association":{"text":"designed","id":"x29338"},"note":"Autumn Winter"}],"associatedObjects":[],"creditLine":"Given by Mrs Leo d'Erlanger","dimensions":[],"dimensionsNote":"","marksAndInscriptions":[],"objectHistory":"","historicalContext":"","briefDescription":"Full length evening dress and cape of silk satin and net embroidered with sequins, designed by Coco Chanel for CHANEL, Paris, Autumn Winter 1937","bibliographicReferences":[{"reference":{"text":"<i>Fashion : An Anthology by Cecil Beaton</i>. London : H.M.S.O., 1971","id":"AUTH354373"},"details":"49","free":""},{"reference":{"text":"Cullen, Oriole and Karol Burks, Connie. \"Gabrielle Chanel\". London: V&A Publishing, 2023","id":"AUTH397745"},"details":"p 184","free":"Extravagant eveningwear such as this full-length, sequinned net dress and cape, from 1937, was a staple of Chanel’s creative output during the 1930s. The combination of glistening black sequins and scarlet satin is striking. The dress is made of black net entirely covered with overlapping black sequins and features a sleeveless bodice with straps, constructed over a boned foundation panel at the waist. A satin double sash encircles the waist, flowing into matching panels inset into the skirt. The short, semi-circular cape has been lined with the same scarlet satin. This red-and-black colour scheme, combined with the sash and shoulder cape, evokes a Catholic cardinal’s cassock and mozzetta or pellegrina cape. The ensemble was worn by American socialite Mrs Leo d’Erlanger, formerly Miss Edwina Prue. She featured regularly in fashion and society magazines in the 1930s, including <i>American Vogue, Tatler</i> and <i>The Sketch</i>, and was celebrated for her sense of style and beauty."}],"production":"","productionType":{"text":"Haute couture","id":"THES48861"},"contentDescription":"","contentPlaces":[],"associatedPlaces":[],"contentPerson":[],"associatedPerson":[],"contentOrganisations":[],"associatedOrganisations":[],"contentPeople":[],"associatedPeople":[],"contentEvents":[],"associatedEvents":[],"contentOthers":[],"contentConcepts":[],"contentLiteraryRefs":[],"galleryLabels":[{"text":"<i>[Gabrielle Chanel. Fashion Manifesto</i> exhibition, September 2023 - March 2024]\r\n\r\nDRESS AND CAPE\r\n\r\nThe striking colour scheme, contrasting sashes and short shoulder cape here evoke a Catholic cardinal’s cassock and pellegrina cape. American socialite Mrs Leo d’Erlanger wore this ensemble. She regularly featured in fashion and society magazines in the 1930s, including <i>American Vogue, Tatler</i> and <i>The Sketch</i>, and was celebrated for her sense of style. \r\n\r\nAutumn/Winter 1937 \r\nSilk satin, net and sequins \r\nV&A: T.87&A-1974 \r\nGiven by Mrs Leo d’Erlanger","date":{"text":"September 2023","earliest":"2023-09-01","latest":"2023-09-30"}}],"partNumbers":["T.87A-1974","T.87-1974"],"accessionNumberNum":"87","accessionNumberPrefix":"T","accessionYear":1974,"otherNumbers":[],"copyNumber":"","aspects":["WHOLE","Evening Cape","Evening dress"],"assets":[],"recordModificationDate":"2025-10-24","recordCreationDate":"2004-01-07","availableToBook":false}}