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Her   couture house, one of the most discussed of interwar Paris, redefined fashionable taste and   perceptions of beauty in the 20th century. With no formal training, she launched her first fashion collection in 1927. Her bold, often audacious, haute couture creations soon made her the designer   of choice for a confident clientele. Within five years, Maison Schiaparelli employed 400 staff   who created over 7000 couture garments each year.  \r\n\r\nOften designing to confront and shock, Schiaparelli’s radical approach embraced the new   and experimental, resulting in clothes that were resolutely modern. Perhaps more than any   fashion designer of the era, Schiaparelli urged textile manufacturers to bring her their   newest and best materials. At the same time, Schiaparelli’s impact extended beyond   fashion and she possessed a vibrant artistic sensibility. Embedded within Europe’s creative   avantgarde, she positioned her work in direct dialogue with art, design and performance. Her collaborations with artists, including Salvador Dalí, Jean Cocteau and Meret Oppenheim, led to   some of her most radical and memorable designs for clothing, accessories and jewellery. In 1954, Schiaparelli officially retired and closed the doors of her couture salon. She left an enduring mark on the world of fashion and a creative legacy that spanned the cities of Paris, London and New York.\r\n\r\nThis stylish ensemble was worn by Lady Alexandra Haig (later Trevor-Roper). It was designed by Elsa Schiaparelli (1890-1973). It was made and sold in Schiaparelli's London salon which opened at 6 Upper Grosvenor Street in the fashionable shopping district of Mayfair in 1933. This jacket shows how Schiaparelli used historical and traditional embroideries, including ecclesiastical vestments, as sources of inspiration. The fronds and leaves are worked in bronze and gold coloured fine metallic threads and bright metal strips. Blue and pink oval glass rhinestones form stylised flower heads. In addition, tiny blue and gold sequins are scattered over the jacket to create interesting visual and textural effects. Three embossed metal buttons resembling star-like flowers fasten the garment. The deep hue of the silk velvet sets off the rich golds of the baroque design perfectly. \r\n","physicalDescription":"Evening ensemble consisting of silk velvet jacket and skirt.\r\nJacket of silk velvet, with the fronds and leaves worked in bronze and gold coloured fine metallic threads and bright metal strips. Blue and pink oval glass rhinestones form stylised flower heads. In addition, tiny blue and gold sequins are scattered over the jacket. Three embossed metal buttons resembling star-like flowers fasten the garment. ","artistMakerPerson":[{"name":{"text":"Elsa Schiaparelli","id":"A2375"},"association":{"text":"designer","id":"x36960"},"note":""}],"artistMakerOrganisations":[],"artistMakerPeople":[],"materials":[{"text":"silk (textile)","id":"AAT243428"},{"text":"velvet","id":"AAT133711"},{"text":"rhinestone","id":"AAT10806"},{"text":"sequin","id":"AAT183896"},{"text":"metal thread","id":"x30421"},{"text":"metal","id":"AAT10900"}],"techniques":[{"text":"embroidering","id":"AAT53653"}],"materialsAndTechniques":"Silk velvet, embroidered with rhinestones, sequins and silver-gilt threads, fastened with metal buttons","categories":[{"text":"Fashion","id":"THES48957"},{"text":"Evening wear","id":"THES48999"},{"text":"Embroidery","id":"THES48960"},{"text":"Womenswear","id":"THES49044"}],"styles":[],"collectionCode":{"text":"T&F","id":"THES48601"},"images":["2012FP4694","2025PE2944","2025PE2945","2025PE2949","2025PE2948","2025PE2947","2025PE2946","2012FP4692","2012FP4693","2012FP4696","2012FP4695","2006AU6542","2019MD5465","2019MD5466"],"imageResolution":"low","galleryLocations":[{"current":{"text":"SAINS","id":"THES276095"},"free":"","case":"FIG083","shelf":"","box":""},{"current":{"text":"SAINS","id":"THES276095"},"free":"","case":"FIG083","shelf":"","box":""}],"partTypes":[[{"text":"Skirt","id":""}],[{"text":"Jacket","id":""}]],"contentWarnings":[{"apprise":"No","note":""},{"apprise":"","note":""},{"apprise":"","note":""}],"placesOfOrigin":[{"place":{"text":"Paris","id":"x29068"},"association":{"text":"made","id":"x28654"},"note":""}],"productionDates":[{"date":{"text":"1938","earliest":"1938-01-01","latest":"1938-12-31"},"association":{"text":"designed","id":"x29338"},"note":""}],"associatedObjects":[],"creditLine":"Given by Lady Trevor Roper","dimensions":[{"dimension":"Height","value":"1650","unit":"","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"","note":"Footprint mounted"},{"dimension":"Width","value":"500","unit":"mm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"","note":"Footprint mounted"},{"dimension":"Depth","value":"500","unit":"mm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"","note":"Footprint mounted"},{"dimension":"Circumference","value":"69","unit":"cm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"Jacket - Waist (measured inside garment)","note":"Measured by Conservation"},{"dimension":"Circumference","value":"101","unit":"cm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"Jacket - Bust (measured inside garment)","note":"Measured by Conservation"},{"dimension":"Width","value":"36","unit":"cm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"Jacket - Across back","note":"Measured by Conservation"},{"dimension":"Length","value":"45","unit":"cm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"Nape-waist","note":"Measured by Conservation"},{"dimension":"Length","value":"57","unit":"cm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"Jacket- Nape-hem","note":"Measured by Conservation"},{"dimension":"Length","value":"47","unit":"cm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"Jacket - Sleeve (underarm-cuff)","note":"Measured by Conservation"},{"dimension":"Length","value":"64","unit":"cm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"Jacket - Sleeve (shoulder-cuff)","note":"Measured by Conservation"},{"dimension":"Circumference","value":"65","unit":"cm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"Skirt - Waist (measured inside garment)","note":"Measured by Conservation"},{"dimension":"Length","value":"107","unit":"cm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"Skirt - Waist-hem","note":"Measured by Conservation"}],"dimensionsNote":"","marksAndInscriptions":[],"objectHistory":"Elsa Schiaparelli (1890–1973) was one of the world’s revolutionary fashion designers. Her couture house, one of the most discussed of interwar Paris, redefined fashionable taste and perceptions of beauty in the 20th century.  With no formal training, she launched her first fashion collection in 1927. Her bold, often audacious, haute couture creations soon made her the designer of choice for a confident clientele. Within five years, Maison Schiaparelli employed 400 staff who created over 7000 couture garments each year.  \r\n\r\nOften designing to confront and shock, Schiaparelli’s radical approach embraced the new and experimental, resulting in clothes that were resolutely modern. Perhaps more than any fashion designer of the era, Schiaparelli urged textile manufacturers to bring her their newest and best materials. At the same time, Schiaparelli’s impact extended beyond fashion and she possessed a vibrant artistic sensibility. Embedded within Europe’s creative avantgarde, she positioned her work in direct dialogue with art, design and performance. Her collaborations with artists, including Salvador Dalí, Jean Cocteau and Meret Oppenheim, led to some of her most radical and memorable designs for clothing, accessories and jewellery. In 1954, Schiaparelli officially retired and closed the doors of her couture salon. She left an enduring mark on the world of fashion and a creative legacy that spanned the cities of Paris, London and New York.  \r\n\r\nPublished in pg. 104 Modern Fashion in Detail – Provenance:  Lady Trevor Roper now Lady Dacre of Glanton.\r\n\tExtremely luxe velvet \r\n\tPhoto Notes: \r\n\tCF closure: sun flower buttons\n\nJan G. Reeder, Curator, The Costume Institute, The Metropolitan Museum of Art\r\nTaken May, 2011, Compiled September, 2011\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n","historicalContext":"","briefDescription":"Evening ensemble consisting of embroidered silk velvet jacket and skirt, designed by Schiaparelli, Paris, autumn-winter 1937-38.","bibliographicReferences":[],"production":"","productionType":{"text":"","id":""},"contentDescription":"","contentPlaces":[],"associatedPlaces":[],"contentPerson":[],"associatedPerson":[],"contentOrganisations":[],"associatedOrganisations":[],"contentPeople":[],"associatedPeople":[],"contentEvents":[],"associatedEvents":[],"contentOthers":[],"contentConcepts":[],"contentLiteraryRefs":[],"galleryLabels":[{"text":"<i><b>Schiaparelli: Fashion Becomes Art</b></i><b> (March - November 2026)</b>\n\nHigh society\n\r\nLady Alexandra Haig (later Trevor-Roper) was a prominent British Schiaparelli client who shopped for several seasons at the designer’s London premises. Haig favoured Schiaparelli’s evening suits. She chose this burgundy velvet ensemble from the Autumn 1937 collection to wear for her portrait, published in society magazine, The Tatler, in January 1938.\n\nEvening suit\r\nElsa Schiaparelli\r\nAutumn 1937\r\nDesigned in Paris; made in London\r\nSilk velvet, metal strip, silver-gilt thread, crystals, sequins (jacket); metal (buttons); silk velvet (skirt)\r\nV&amp;A: T.398&amp;A–1974\r\nGiven by Lady Alexandra Trevor-Roper","date":{"text":"2026","earliest":"2026-01-01","latest":"2026-12-31"}}],"partNumbers":["T.398-1974","T.398A-1974"],"accessionNumberNum":"398","accessionNumberPrefix":"T","accessionYear":1974,"otherNumbers":[],"copyNumber":"","aspects":["WHOLE","Jacket","Skirt"],"assets":[],"recordModificationDate":"2026-07-30","recordCreationDate":"2004-01-06","availableToBook":false}}