{"meta":{"version":"2.1","_links":{"self":{"href":"https://api.vam.ac.uk/v2/object/O83738"},"collection_page":{"href":"https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O83738/"}},"images":{"_primary_thumbnail":"https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2007BM6060/full/!100,100/0/default.jpg","_iiif_image":"https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2007BM6060/","_alt_iiif_image":[],"imageResolution":"low","_images_meta":[{"assetRef":"2007BM6060","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2007BM6061","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2007BM6059","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2007BM6058","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false}]},"see_also":null},"record":{"systemNumber":"O83738","accessionNumber":"T.294-1984","objectType":"Evening dress","titles":[{"title":"Coronation","type":"named collection"}],"summaryDescription":"This magnificent evening gown formed part of the John Cavanagh (1914-2003) spring/summer 1953 'Coronation' collection.  It was ordered by Lady Cornwallis (nee Esme d’Beaumont, 1901-69) to wear for the coronation celebrations in June.  Although Cavanagh had been in business for just one year, he had already secured a reputation as a talented designer.  \r\n\r\nThe fabric designed by Oliver Messel (1904-1978), at the time Britain’s foremost designer of costumes and sets for stage and film, was commissioned by Nicholas (‘Miki’) Sekers, who owned West Cumberland Silk Mills.  \r\n\r\nThe fabric of the gown was made using a weave particular to the Sekers company at this time.  It is made of two separate layers of silk joined to form the design.  This is of scattered semi-naturalistic orchids woven in oyster, pale-pink and green silk enriched with gold threads.","physicalDescription":"Evening dress of brocaded silk with a design of scattered and semi-naturalistic orchids woven in oyster, pale-pink and green silk enriched with gold threads. It has a heart shaped fitted bodice with two simple shoulder straps. The skirt is semi-full with a small train at the back.\r\n\r\nIt is made of  two layers of fine silk which are separate except where they are joined together to form the design. As well as silk each one is woven also with gold thread which is in the bottom layer of the fabric except when it comes to the surface with the design.","artistMakerPerson":[{"name":{"text":"John Cavanagh","id":"A5498"},"association":{"text":"designer","id":"AAT25190"},"note":""},{"name":{"text":"Oliver Hilary Sambourne Messel","id":"A4929"},"association":{"text":"designer","id":"x36960"},"note":"textiles"}],"artistMakerOrganisations":[{"name":{"text":"Sekers Fabrics Ltd.","id":"A19168"},"association":{"text":"manufacturer","id":"x33306"},"note":"textiles"}],"artistMakerPeople":[],"materials":[{"text":"silk (textile)","id":"AAT243428"}],"techniques":[{"text":"brocaded","id":"AAT53648"}],"materialsAndTechniques":"Brocaded silk","categories":[{"text":"Royalty","id":"THES48899"},{"text":"Fashion","id":"THES48957"},{"text":"Womenswear","id":"THES49044"},{"text":"Evening wear","id":"THES48999"},{"text":"Formal wear","id":"THES48950"}],"styles":[],"collectionCode":{"text":"T&F","id":"THES48601"},"images":["2007BM6060","2007BM6061","2007BM6059","2007BM6058"],"imageResolution":"low","galleryLocations":[{"current":{"text":"022","id":"THES311502"},"free":"","case":"","shelf":"","box":""}],"partTypes":[[{"text":"Evening dress","id":""}]],"contentWarnings":[{"apprise":"","note":""}],"placesOfOrigin":[{"place":{"text":"London","id":"x28980"},"association":{"text":"made","id":"x28654"},"note":""}],"productionDates":[{"date":{"text":"1953","earliest":"1953-01-01","latest":"1953-12-31"},"association":{"text":"made","id":"x28654"},"note":""}],"associatedObjects":[],"creditLine":"Given by Lady Cornwallis","dimensions":[{"dimension":"Circumference","value":"70","unit":"cm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"waist","note":""},{"dimension":"Circumference","value":"88","unit":"cm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"bust","note":""},{"dimension":"Diameter","value":"81","unit":"cm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"footprint","note":""},{"dimension":"Length","value":"130","unit":"cm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"skirt with train","note":""},{"dimension":"Length","value":"110","unit":"cm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"skirt front","note":""},{"dimension":"Weight","value":"2.04","unit":"kg","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"","note":""}],"dimensionsNote":"Stockman European Female size 42","marksAndInscriptions":[],"objectHistory":"Worn and given by Lady Cornwallis.\r\nEsme Ethel Alice d'Beaumont (1901-1969) is the daughter of Captian Montmorency d'Beaumont.  She married, firstly, Major Sir Robert James Milo Walker, 4 Bt., on 23 January 1923.  She married, secondly, Sir Wykeham Stanley Cornwallis (1892-1982), 2nd Baron Cornwallis on 26 February 1948.  Given by the 3rd Lord and Lady Cornwallis.\r\n\r\nThis dress was ordered for the Coronation celebrations of June 1953, and this dress formed part of John Cavanagh's spring/summer 1953 (Coronation collection).  \r\n\r\nLady Cornwallis also wore T.292-1982.","historicalContext":"The Sekers company made a special fabric for Oliver Messel's designs (called ‘Jewels’, ‘Acorn', ‘Scattered Leaves’, ‘Juliet’, Miniver’, and ‘Twigs’).  It is made of  two layers of fine silk which are separate except where they are joined together to form the design.  As well as silk each one is woven also with gold thread which is in the bottom layer of the fabric except when it comes to the surface with the design.","briefDescription":"Evening dress 'Coronation' of brocaded silk, designed by John Cavanagh, London, 1953, with fabric designed by Oliver Messel and made by Sekers Fabrics Ltd.","bibliographicReferences":[{"reference":{"text":"","id":""},"details":"","free":"de la Haye, Amy, ed. The Cutting Edge: 50 Years of British Fashion 1947-1997. Victoria and Albert Publications, London, 1997, p. 69."},{"reference":{"text":"","id":""},"details":"","free":"Vogue (UK) April 1953, p.132-2"},{"reference":{"text":"","id":""},"details":"","free":"Archive of Art and Design, V&A.  John French Archive: JF 1130"},{"reference":{"text":"","id":""},"details":"","free":"V&A's Cavanagh Archive"},{"reference":{"text":"","id":""},"details":"","free":"Letter on loan to the V&A for <i>The Golden Age of Couture: Paris and London 1947-1957</i> from the Sekers family, to Lady Jean Rankin, the Queen's lady in waiting."},{"reference":{"text":"","id":""},"details":"","free":"Wilcox, C., ed., <i>The Golden Age of Couture: Paris and London 1947-57</i> (V&A Publications, London: 2007), pp.110-1 and pl.4.17-4.20"}],"production":"Spring/summer 1953\r\n\r\nAttribution note: Made for the Coronation, 1953\nReason For Production: Commission","productionType":{"text":"Haute couture","id":"THES48861"},"contentDescription":"","contentPlaces":[],"associatedPlaces":[],"contentPerson":[],"associatedPerson":[],"contentOrganisations":[],"associatedOrganisations":[],"contentPeople":[],"associatedPeople":[],"contentEvents":[],"associatedEvents":[],"contentOthers":[{"text":"Flowers","id":"x31099"}],"contentConcepts":[],"contentLiteraryRefs":[],"galleryLabels":[{"text":"John Cavanagh catered for a discerning clientele producing refined couture in luxurious fabrics. This regal evening dress for Lady Cornwallis was made in a rich brocade scattered with semi-naturalistic orchids in subtle shades of oyster, pale pink and green, sparkling with gold threads. The gown has a fitted low-cut bodice and a trained back.","date":{"text":"1997","earliest":"1997-01-01","latest":"1997-12-31"}},{"text":"Evening dress with sketch and chart\r\nJohn Cavanagh (1914-2004)\r\nLondon\r\n1953 spring/summer Coronation Collection\r\n\r\nCouturiers worked from sketches and textile samples to create new designs. This Cavanagh sketch shows his initial concept for an evening dress. As the working chart shows, it became no. 43 in his spring collection in 1953. The silk was made in England by the innovative textile firm West Cumberland Mills. Its Hungarian-born owner, Miki Sekers, commissioned the design from the stage designer Oliver Messel.\r\n\r\n1. Sketch \r\nGiven by John Cavanagh\r\nV&A: Cavanagh Archive\r\n\r\n2. Evening gown\r\nSilk brocade designed by Oliver Messel for West Cumberland Mills (Sekers)\r\nGiven by Lady Cornwallis, and worn by her to the Coronation celebrations\r\nV&A: T.294-1984\r\n\r\n3. Paper charts with textile samples\r\nGiven by John Cavanagh\r\nV&A: Cavanagh Archive\r\n\r\n4.  Letter to Buckingham Palace\r\nLent by the Sekers family","date":{"text":"22/09/2007","earliest":"2007-09-22","latest":"2007-09-22"}}],"partNumbers":["T.294-1984"],"accessionNumberNum":"294","accessionNumberPrefix":"T","accessionYear":1984,"otherNumbers":[],"copyNumber":"","aspects":["WHOLE"],"assets":[],"recordModificationDate":"2026-04-10","recordCreationDate":"2003-08-26","availableToBook":true}}