{"meta":{"version":"2.1","_links":{"self":{"href":"https://api.vam.ac.uk/v2/object/O83597"},"collection_page":{"href":"https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O83597/"}},"images":{"_primary_thumbnail":"https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2006AY8492/full/!100,100/0/default.jpg","_iiif_image":"https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2006AY8492/","_alt_iiif_image":[],"imageResolution":"low","_images_meta":[{"assetRef":"2006AY8492","copyright":"©Victoria and Albert Museum, London/Richard James","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2006AY8491","copyright":"©Victoria and Albert Museum, London/Richard James","sensitiveImage":false}]},"see_also":null},"record":{"systemNumber":"O83597","accessionNumber":"T.183-1996","objectType":"Jacket","titles":[{"title":"The Cecil Beaton Collection","type":"named collection"}],"summaryDescription":"Jackets of this style - tailored, hip-length, and with a standing collar and long placket of buttons - became popular in places including Europe in the late 1960s. These garments were widely referred to as 'Nehru jackets' as they take inspiration from garments worn by Jawaharlal Nehru, Prime Minister of India from 1947 to 1964. Nehru wore the <i>archkan</i>, a knee length coat and the more informal <i>bundi</i> waistcoat, both of which had standing collars and long button plackets. Those who wore 'Nehru jackets' outside of India in the 'Swinging Sixties' tended to be expressing an interest in breaking away from traditions, sartorial and otherwise. This helps to explain why 'Nehru jackets' were often made from luxurious fabrics such as silk and velvet that were colourful and/or patterned, rather than the plainer materials that had long been favoured for menswear by many cultures. The style had its heyday in the late 1960s but was revived in the 1980s and 1990s in places including Britain and the United States. \n\nThis 1990 'Nehru jacket' was part of Richard James's \"Cecil Beaton  Collection\" shown at the Opera-Comique, Paris, France. The romantic jacket features three-dimensional roses and relates to Beaton's fancy dress jacket of 1937. The jackets were displayed together. \n","physicalDescription":"'Nehru jacket' in pink raw silk with yellow organza applique roses and green silk embroidery","artistMakerPerson":[{"name":{"text":"James, Richard","id":"A10132"},"association":{"text":"designer","id":"AAT25190"},"note":""}],"artistMakerOrganisations":[],"artistMakerPeople":[],"materials":[{"text":"silk (textile)","id":"AAT243428"},{"text":"organza","id":"x30432"},{"text":"silk thread","id":"x30127"}],"techniques":[{"text":"applied work","id":"AAT53646"},{"text":"embroidering","id":"AAT53653"}],"materialsAndTechniques":"Raw silk with organza applique and silk embroidery","categories":[{"text":"Men's clothes","id":"THES49043"},{"text":"Fashion","id":"THES48957"},{"text":"Europeana Fashion Project","id":"THES265804"}],"styles":[],"collectionCode":{"text":"T&F","id":"THES48601"},"images":["2006AY8492","2006AY8491"],"imageResolution":"low","galleryLocations":[{"current":{"text":"Q","id":"THES296998"},"free":"","case":"","shelf":"","box":""}],"partTypes":[[{"text":"Jacket","id":"AAT225809"}]],"contentWarnings":[{"apprise":"","note":""}],"placesOfOrigin":[{"place":{"text":"Great Britain","id":"x32019"},"association":{"text":"made","id":"x28654"},"note":""}],"productionDates":[{"date":{"text":"1990","earliest":"1990-01-01","latest":"1990-12-31"},"association":{"text":"made","id":"x28654"},"note":""}],"associatedObjects":[],"creditLine":"Given by the designer","dimensions":[{"dimension":"Weight","value":"1.16","unit":"kg","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"","note":""},{"dimension":"Length","value":"85","unit":"cm","qualifier":"whole","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"","note":""},{"dimension":"Width","value":"50","unit":"cm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"shoulders","note":""},{"dimension":"Width","value":"54","unit":"cm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"back, armpit to armpit","note":""}],"dimensionsNote":"","marksAndInscriptions":[],"objectHistory":"This 1990 'Nehru jacket' was part of Richard James's \"Cecil Beaton  Collection\" shown at the Opera-Comique, Paris, France. The romantic jacket features three-dimensional roses and relates to Beaton's fancy dress jacket of 1937. The jackets were displayed together. \r\n\r\nRegistered File number 1996/611.","historicalContext":"","briefDescription":"'Nehru jacket', menswear, pink raw silk with applique yellow organza roses and green silk embroidery, by Richard James, Great Britain, spring/summer 1990","bibliographicReferences":[{"reference":{"text":"","id":""},"details":"","free":"de la Haye, Amy, ed. <u>The Cutting Edge: 50 Years of British Fashion.</u> Victoria and Albert Publications, 1997, plate 78, pp. 40, 60, 107, 188-200, and 205."}],"production":"Spring/Summer 1990 collection.","productionType":{"text":"","id":""},"contentDescription":"","contentPlaces":[],"associatedPlaces":[],"contentPerson":[],"associatedPerson":[],"contentOrganisations":[],"associatedOrganisations":[],"contentPeople":[],"associatedPeople":[],"contentEvents":[],"associatedEvents":[],"contentOthers":[{"text":"roses (flowers)","id":"x31675"}],"contentConcepts":[],"contentLiteraryRefs":[],"galleryLabels":[{"text":"A highlight in Richard James's \"Cecil Beaton Collection\" shown at the Opera-Comique, Paris, this most romantic of jackets was a homage to Cecil Beaton's fancy dress jacket of 1937, displayed alongside. The immaculately cut Nehru style is embellished with three-dimensional roses","date":{"text":"1997","earliest":"1997-01-01","latest":"1997-12-31"}}],"partNumbers":["T.183-1996"],"accessionNumberNum":"183","accessionNumberPrefix":"T","accessionYear":1996,"otherNumbers":[],"copyNumber":"","aspects":["WHOLE"],"assets":[],"recordModificationDate":"2025-07-01","recordCreationDate":"2003-08-21","availableToBook":false}}