{"meta":{"version":"2.1","_links":{"self":{"href":"https://api.vam.ac.uk/v2/object/O82504"},"collection_page":{"href":"https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O82504/"}},"images":{"_primary_thumbnail":"https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2006AM5144/full/!100,100/0/default.jpg","_iiif_image":"https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2006AM5144/","_alt_iiif_image":[],"imageResolution":"high","_images_meta":[{"assetRef":"2006AM5144","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2006AP0222","copyright":"©Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2006AP0221","copyright":"©Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2006AM5143","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2006AM5096","copyright":"©Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false}]},"see_also":{"_iiif_pres":"https://iiif.vam.ac.uk/collections/O82504/manifest.json","_alt_iiif_pres":[]}},"record":{"systemNumber":"O82504","accessionNumber":"T.846E-1974","objectType":"Doll's mantua","titles":[],"summaryDescription":"<b>Object Type</b><br>This mantua was made for a doll, known as Lady Clapham, that is thought to have belonged to the Cockerell family, descendants of the diarist Samuel Pepys (1633-1703). The daughter of Pepys's nephew John Jackson (the son of his sister Pauline) married a Cockerell, who had a family home in Clapham, south London.<br><br><b>Designs & Designing</b><br>Lady Clapham offers a fine example of both formal and informal dress for a wealthy woman in the 1690s (Museum nos. T.846&A to Y-1974).  Her formal outfit includes a mantua (gown) and petticoat, while her informal dress is represented by the nightgown (a dressing gown rather than a garment worn to bed) and petticoat. Accessories such as the stockings, cap and chemise (a body garment) are very valuable since very few items from such an early period survive in museum collections.  Equally important is the demonstration of how these clothes were worn together.<br><br><b>Ownership & Use</b><br>Dolls were widely produced in the 17th century, although very few survive, due to the wear and tear they usually undergo. The high quality of Lady Clapham and her clothes indicates that she would have been expensive. There is little evidence of use, which suggests that she was admired by adults rather than played with by children.","physicalDescription":"Doll's mantua of ivory Chinese export silk damask with a train at the back. The train is lined and faced with self-patterned pink silk taffeta with a self-coloured woven pattern which also forms the robing and turn back cuffs. The mantua is T-shaped with wide three-quarter length sleeves.  The mantua has a double box pleat at the back and a gore from the waist to hem on each side.  A cord of metal braid stitched inside the waist, attached to a gilt thread metal button attached to each hip holds the mantua open over the petticoat.\n\n","artistMakerPerson":[{"name":{"text":"Unknown","id":"A1848"},"association":{"text":"","id":""},"note":""}],"artistMakerOrganisations":[],"artistMakerPeople":[],"materials":[{"text":"silver-gilt thread","id":"x30492"},{"text":"silk (textile)","id":"AAT243428"},{"text":"braid","id":"AAT232186"}],"techniques":[{"text":"hand sewing","id":"AAT257459"},{"text":"braiding","id":"AAT53638"}],"materialsAndTechniques":"Silk damask lined with silk taffeta","categories":[{"text":"Dolls & Toys","id":"THES48967"},{"text":"British Galleries","id":"THES48985"},{"text":"Textiles","id":"THES48885"},{"text":"Clothing","id":"THES48975"},{"text":"Europeana Fashion Project","id":"THES265804"}],"styles":[],"collectionCode":{"text":"T&F","id":"THES48601"},"images":["2006AM5144","2006AP0222","2006AP0221","2006AM5143","2006AM5096"],"imageResolution":"high","galleryLocations":[{"current":{"text":"001","id":"THES306677"},"free":"","case":"","shelf":"","box":""}],"partTypes":[[{"text":"Mantua","id":""}]],"contentWarnings":[{"apprise":"","note":""}],"placesOfOrigin":[{"place":{"text":"London","id":"x28980"},"association":{"text":"made","id":"x28654"},"note":""}],"productionDates":[{"date":{"text":"1690-1700","earliest":"1690-01-01","latest":"1700-12-31"},"association":{"text":"made","id":"x28654"},"note":""}],"associatedObjects":[{"object":{"text":"T.847-1974","id":"O41545"},"association":"Object"}],"creditLine":"Purchased by public subscription","dimensions":[{"dimension":"Length","value":"64.7","unit":"cm","qualifier":"approx.","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"","note":""}],"dimensionsNote":"Dimensions checked: measured; 01/01/1999 by DW","marksAndInscriptions":[],"objectHistory":"The doll is thought to have belonged to the Cockerell family, descendants of Samuel Pepys.  The daughter of Pepys' nephew John Jackson(son of his sister, Pauline) married a Cockerell.  The doll and its partner were named 'Lord' and 'Lady' of the family home in Clapham.\n\nHistorical significance: The doll and its partner are costume documents; their clothes being, in style, cut and material, perfect miniatures of the fashions of the late 17th century.  Their importance is underlined by the almost total lack of other good visual source material for this period, whether pictorial or in the form of surviving garments.  In particular the survival of accessories and the informal garments is extremely rare.","historicalContext":"Dolls were widely produced in the 17th century, although very few survive.  It is most unlikely that these particular examples were the playthings of children.  Their production is of a high quality; almost all the accessories survive and there is little wear and tear on the dolls and their garments.  The dolls were most probably purchased for the amusement of adults, and as a decorative accessory to a home.","briefDescription":"Doll's mantua of silk damask lined with silk taffeta, probably London 1690-1700","bibliographicReferences":[{"reference":{"text":"","id":""},"details":"","free":"Hillier, Mary, Pollock's Dictionary of English Dolls, London: Robert Hale Ltd., 1982, 51, 202pp. ill"}],"production":"","productionType":{"text":"","id":""},"contentDescription":"","contentPlaces":[],"associatedPlaces":[],"contentPerson":[],"associatedPerson":[],"contentOrganisations":[],"associatedOrganisations":[],"contentPeople":[],"associatedPeople":[],"contentEvents":[],"associatedEvents":[],"contentOthers":[],"contentConcepts":[],"contentLiteraryRefs":[],"galleryLabels":[{"text":"British Galleries:\nThese dolls were probably made for the amusement of adults at home, as were dolls' houses at this time. They were named 'Lord and Lady' of the family home in Clapham, London by their owners, the Cockerell family. The outfits of the dolls are perfect miniatures of London fashions of 1690 and 1700. She wears a mantua (gown) of Chinese silk over stays (a stiff corset), with an under-wired cap and high-heeled shoes.","date":{"text":"27/03/2003","earliest":"2003-03-27","latest":"2003-03-27"}}],"partNumbers":["T.846E-1974"],"accessionNumberNum":"846","accessionNumberPrefix":"T","accessionYear":1974,"otherNumbers":[],"copyNumber":"","aspects":["WHOLE"],"assets":["2019LU1679"],"recordModificationDate":"2025-08-19","recordCreationDate":"2003-07-16","availableToBook":true}}