{"meta":{"version":"2.1","_links":{"self":{"href":"https://api.vam.ac.uk/v2/object/O82496"},"collection_page":{"href":"https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O82496/"}},"images":{"_primary_thumbnail":"https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2006AM5107/full/!100,100/0/default.jpg","_iiif_image":"https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2006AM5107/","_alt_iiif_image":[],"imageResolution":"high","_images_meta":[{"assetRef":"2006AM5107","copyright":"©Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2006AP0222","copyright":"©Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2006AP0221","copyright":"©Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2006AM5151","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2006AM5150","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2006AM5104","copyright":"©Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2006AM5103","copyright":"©Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2006AM5101","copyright":"©Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2006AM5099","copyright":"©Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2006AM5096","copyright":"©Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false}]},"see_also":{"_iiif_pres":"https://iiif.vam.ac.uk/collections/O82496/manifest.json","_alt_iiif_pres":[]}},"record":{"systemNumber":"O82496","accessionNumber":"T.846A-1974","objectType":"Doll's shift","titles":[],"summaryDescription":"<b>Object Type</b><br>This shift was made for a doll, known as Lady Clapham, that is thought to have belonged to the Cockerell family, descendants of the diarist Samuel Pepys (1633-1703). The daughter of Pepys's nephew John Jackson (the son of his sister Pauline) married a Cockerell, who had a family home in Clapham, south London.<br><br><b>Designs & Designing</b><br>Lady Clapham offers a fine example of both formal and informal dress for a wealthy woman in the 1690s (Museum nos. T.846&A to Y-1974).  Her formal outfit includes a mantua (gown) and petticoat, while her informal dress is represented by the nightgown (a dressing gown rather than a garment worn to bed) and petticoat. Accessories such as the stockings, cap and chemise (a body garment) are very valuable since very few items from such an early period survive in museum collections.  Equally important is the demonstration of how these clothes were worn together.<br><br><b>Ownership & Use</b><br>Dolls were widely produced in the 17th century, although very few survive, due to the wear and tear they usually undergo. The high quality of Lady Clapham and her clothes indicates that she would have been expensive. There is little evidence of use, which suggests that she was admired by adults rather than played with by children.","physicalDescription":"Shift of fine white hand-sewn lawn, mid-calf length. The body of the shift is one rectangle forming front and back, with triangular gores on each side, front and back.  It has a low round neck trimmed with English bobbin lace with a draw cord of white linen for adjustment. The sleeves are of just below elbow length and are gathered into a cuff which has eyelet holes for a linen attachment cord. ","artistMakerPerson":[{"name":{"text":"Unknown","id":"A1848"},"association":{"text":"","id":""},"note":""}],"artistMakerOrganisations":[],"artistMakerPeople":[],"materials":[{"text":"linen","id":"x29412"},{"text":"bobbin lace","id":"AAT132869"}],"techniques":[{"text":"hand sewing","id":"AAT257459"},{"text":"bobbin lace making","id":"x30355"},{"text":"embroidery","id":"AAT53653"}],"materialsAndTechniques":"Hand-sewn lawn, linen and trimmed with bobbin lace","categories":[{"text":"Dolls and toys","id":"THES48967"},{"text":"British Galleries","id":"THES48985"},{"text":"Lace","id":"THES48926"},{"text":"Textiles","id":"THES48885"},{"text":"Clothing","id":"THES48975"},{"text":"Europeana Fashion Project","id":"THES265804"}],"styles":[],"collectionCode":{"text":"T&F","id":"THES48601"},"images":["2006AM5107","2006AP0222","2006AP0221","2006AM5151","2006AM5150","2006AM5104","2006AM5103","2006AM5101","2006AM5099","2006AM5096"],"imageResolution":"high","galleryLocations":[{"current":{"text":"002","id":"THES306678"},"free":"","case":"","shelf":"","box":""}],"partTypes":[[{"text":"Shift","id":""}]],"contentWarnings":[{"apprise":"","note":""}],"placesOfOrigin":[{"place":{"text":"London","id":"x28980"},"association":{"text":"made","id":"x28654"},"note":""}],"productionDates":[{"date":{"text":"1690-1700","earliest":"1690-01-01","latest":"1700-12-31"},"association":{"text":"made","id":"x28654"},"note":""}],"associatedObjects":[{"object":{"text":"T.847-1974","id":"O41545"},"association":"Object"}],"creditLine":"Purchased by public subscription","dimensions":[{"dimension":"Length","value":"38","unit":"cm","qualifier":"approx.","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"","note":""}],"dimensionsNote":"Dimensions checked: measured; 01/01/1999 by DW","marksAndInscriptions":[],"objectHistory":"The doll is thought to have belonged to the Cockerell family, descendants of Samuel Pepys.  The daughter of Pepys' nephew John Jackson(son of his sister, Pauline) married a Cockerell.  The doll and its partner were named 'Lord' and 'Lady' of the family home in Clapham.\n\nHistorical significance: The doll and its partner are costume documents; their clothes being, in style, cut and material, perfect miniatures of the fashions of the late 17th century.  Their importance is underlined by the almost total lack of other good visual source material for this period, whether pictorial or in the form of surviving garments.  In particular the survival of accessories and the informal garments is extremely rare.","historicalContext":"Dolls were widely produced in the 17th century, although very few survive.  It is most unlikely that these particular examples were the playthings of children.  Their production is of a high quality; almost all the accessories survive and there is little wear and tear on the dolls and their garments.  The dolls were most probably purchased for the amusement of adults, and as a decorative accessory to a home.","briefDescription":"Doll's shift of lawn trimmed with bobbin lace, probably London, 1690-1790","bibliographicReferences":[{"reference":{"text":"","id":""},"details":"","free":"Hillier, Mary, Pollock's Dictionary of English Dolls, London: Robert Hale Ltd., 1982, 51, 202pp. ill"}],"production":"","productionType":{"text":"","id":""},"contentDescription":"","contentPlaces":[],"associatedPlaces":[],"contentPerson":[],"associatedPerson":[],"contentOrganisations":[],"associatedOrganisations":[],"contentPeople":[],"associatedPeople":[],"contentEvents":[],"associatedEvents":[],"contentOthers":[],"contentConcepts":[],"contentLiteraryRefs":[],"galleryLabels":[{"text":"British Galleries:\nThese dolls were probably made for the amusement of adults at home, as were dolls' houses at this time. They were named 'Lord and Lady' of the family home in Clapham, London by their owners, the Cockerell family. The outfits of the dolls are perfect miniatures of London fashions of 1690 and 1700. She wears a mantua (gown) of Chinese silk over stays (a stiff corset), with an under-wired cap and high-heeled shoes.","date":{"text":"27/03/2003","earliest":"2003-03-27","latest":"2003-03-27"}}],"partNumbers":["T.846A-1974"],"accessionNumberNum":"846","accessionNumberPrefix":"T","accessionYear":1974,"otherNumbers":[],"copyNumber":"","aspects":["WHOLE"],"assets":["2019LU5800"],"recordModificationDate":"2026-04-22","recordCreationDate":"2003-07-16","availableToBook":true}}