{"meta":{"version":"2.1","_links":{"self":{"href":"https://api.vam.ac.uk/v2/object/O78914"},"collection_page":{"href":"https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O78914/"}},"images":{"_primary_thumbnail":"https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2006AM2208/full/!100,100/0/default.jpg","_iiif_image":"https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2006AM2208/","_alt_iiif_image":[],"imageResolution":"high","_images_meta":[{"assetRef":"2006AM2208","copyright":"©Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false}]},"see_also":{"_iiif_pres":"https://iiif.vam.ac.uk/collections/O78914/manifest.json","_alt_iiif_pres":[]}},"record":{"systemNumber":"O78914","accessionNumber":"T.720&A-1974","objectType":"Smoking suit","titles":[],"summaryDescription":"<b>Object Type</b><br>The smoking jacket was a short, easy- fitting coat cut in the style of a lounge jacket.  It was a distinctive garment since it was often quilted and decorated with silk cord or braid frogging. It  could be single- or double-breasted. Soft materials were used such as silk, velvet or wool in dark reds, greens, blues, brown or black.<br><br><b>Materials & Making</b><br>This smoking jacket and matching trousers appear to have been made out of handkerchief silk as the pattern is not continuous. The fabric was probably made in India for the European market.<br><br><b>Ownership & Use</b><br>The popularity of the smoking suit shows how sartorial rules were relaxing in the late 19th century. The smoking jacket was often worn in place of the dinner jacket for an informal evening at home.  It was worn with day trousers, evening trousers and sometimes (as in this example) with matching easy-cut trousers. The trousers on this suit are adjusted with a buckle at the back, but trousers could also be secured by a girdle at the waist like pyjama trousers.<br><br><b>Time</b><br>The smoking jacket was still popular in the early 20th century. In 1956 the Austin Reed catalogue announced an updated version of the smoking jacket, named the television jacket.  This did not become a widespread fashion as by this date few men felt the need to wear a special garment for watching television or smoking.","physicalDescription":"Man's smoking suit made of hand and machine-sewn silk with a green and red print. Lined with wool.","artistMakerPerson":[{"name":{"text":"Unknown","id":"A1848"},"association":{"text":"","id":""},"note":""}],"artistMakerOrganisations":[],"artistMakerPeople":[],"materials":[{"text":"silk (textile)","id":"AAT243428"},{"text":"wool","id":"AAT243430"}],"techniques":[{"text":"printed","id":"AAT53319"},{"text":"hand sewn","id":"AAT257459"},{"text":"machine sewing","id":"AAT257463"}],"materialsAndTechniques":"Printed silk lined with wool","categories":[{"text":"Fashion","id":"THES48957"},{"text":"Men's clothes","id":"THES49043"},{"text":"Textiles","id":"THES48885"},{"text":"Europeana Fashion Project","id":"THES265804"}],"styles":[],"collectionCode":{"text":"T&F","id":"THES48601"},"images":["2006AM2208"],"imageResolution":"high","galleryLocations":[{"current":{"text":"125B","id":"THES49893"},"free":"","case":"CA3","shelf":"","box":"11"},{"current":{"text":"125B","id":"THES49893"},"free":"","case":"CA3","shelf":"","box":"11"}],"partTypes":[[{"text":"Jacket","id":""}],[{"text":"Trousers","id":""}]],"contentWarnings":[{"apprise":"","note":""},{"apprise":"","note":""},{"apprise":"","note":""}],"placesOfOrigin":[{"place":{"text":"Great Britain","id":"x32019"},"association":{"text":"made","id":"x28654"},"note":""}],"productionDates":[{"date":{"text":"ca. 1906","earliest":"1901-01-01","latest":"1910-12-31"},"association":{"text":"made","id":"x28654"},"note":""}],"associatedObjects":[],"creditLine":"Given by the Earl and Countess of Avon","dimensions":[{"dimension":"Length","value":"160","unit":"cm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"","note":""}],"dimensionsNote":"Dimensions checked: Measured; 24/06/1999 by LH","marksAndInscriptions":[],"objectHistory":"Worn by Jack Eden\r\nMade in Britain","historicalContext":"","briefDescription":"Man's smoking suit of hand and machine-sewn printed silk, Great Britain, ca. 1906","bibliographicReferences":[{"reference":{"text":"<i>Fashion : An Anthology by Cecil Beaton</i>. London : H.M.S.O., 1971","id":"AUTH354373"},"details":"no. 259","free":""}],"production":"","productionType":{"text":"","id":""},"contentDescription":"","contentPlaces":[],"associatedPlaces":[],"contentPerson":[],"associatedPerson":[],"contentOrganisations":[],"associatedOrganisations":[],"contentPeople":[],"associatedPeople":[],"contentEvents":[],"associatedEvents":[],"contentOthers":[],"contentConcepts":[],"contentLiteraryRefs":[],"galleryLabels":[{"text":"British Galleries:\nMen in high society started wearing smoking jackets in the 1850s to protect their clothes from the smell of smoke.  They put them on when they withdrew to the smoking room for an after dinner cigarette or cigar. By 1900 jackets were worn with matching trousers for a relaxed evening at home.","date":{"text":"27/03/2003","earliest":"2003-03-27","latest":"2003-03-27"}}],"partNumbers":["T.720-1974","T.720A-1974"],"accessionNumberNum":"720","accessionNumberPrefix":"T","accessionYear":1974,"otherNumbers":[],"copyNumber":"","aspects":["WHOLE","Jacket","Trousers"],"assets":["2019LN2008","2019LP7029","2019LP7022","2019LP5238","2019LV7225","2019LV7056"],"recordModificationDate":"2025-04-25","recordCreationDate":"2003-03-27","availableToBook":false}}