{"meta":{"version":"2.1","_links":{"self":{"href":"https://api.vam.ac.uk/v2/object/O78827"},"collection_page":{"href":"https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O78827/"}},"images":{"_primary_thumbnail":"https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2011FB9043/full/!100,100/0/default.jpg","_iiif_image":"https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2011FB9043/","_alt_iiif_image":[],"imageResolution":"high","_images_meta":[{"assetRef":"2011FB9043","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2012FM9367","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2017JY1431","copyright":"©Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2018KY8752","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false}]},"see_also":{"_iiif_pres":"https://iiif.vam.ac.uk/collections/O78827/manifest.json","_alt_iiif_pres":[]}},"record":{"systemNumber":"O78827","accessionNumber":"T.3-1931","objectType":"Napkin","titles":[],"summaryDescription":"<b>Object Type</b><br>This napkin is from the household of Charles Hope, 1st Earl of Hopetoun (1681-1742) and his wife, born Lady Henrietta Johnstone. It would have been part of a set of napkins matching a tablecloth. The Earl and Countess had married in 1699, so the linen was not woven to commemorate the wedding, but its quality suggests that by 1708 they were maintaining an affluent household in which fashionable luxuries were used.<br><br><b>Ownership & Use</b><br>Late 17th and early 18th-century Scottish inventories emphasise the importance of table linen, known as napery, in households. Often there were more napkins and tablecloths than there were sheets and pillowcases. Stocks of napery could be built up over many years, and were bequeathed in wills.<br><br><b>Making & Trading</b><br>The first record confirming the weaving of linen damask in Scotland is an Act of 1693 stating 'it shall be lawful to make all sorts of damask for table linen'. But Scotland had an important coarse linen-weaving industry, providing a manufacturing base out of which it could be developed. Linen damask appears to have been attempted earlier in the century. Damask table linen had been legally imported, or smuggled, from Flanders and The Netherlands, and the home industry tried to earn a share of this market. The weaving of custom-made damask like this, incorporating the client's name and, where appropriate, coat of arms seems to have been a significant part of the industry.","physicalDescription":"Linen damask, depicting arms of Hope impaling Johnstone within a narrow floral border, with the motto 'AT SPES INFRACTA.' Inscribed above is 'CHARLES EARLE OF HOPTOUN 1708, 'and below is 'HENRETA COUNTES OF HOPTOUN 1708.' In each angle appears the letter 'H' and a coronet. \r\n\r\nWoven at 100 threads to the inch.","artistMakerPerson":[{"name":{"text":"Unknown","id":"A1848"},"association":{"text":"","id":""},"note":""}],"artistMakerOrganisations":[],"artistMakerPeople":[],"materials":[{"text":"linen","id":"x29412"}],"techniques":[{"text":"damask weave","id":"x37293"}],"materialsAndTechniques":"Linen damask","categories":[{"text":"Textiles","id":"THES48885"},{"text":"Household objects","id":"THES48939"},{"text":"Scotland","id":"THES262877"}],"styles":[],"collectionCode":{"text":"T&F","id":"THES48601"},"images":["2011FB9043","2012FM9367","2017JY1431","2018KY8752"],"imageResolution":"high","galleryLocations":[{"current":{"text":"56D (VA)","id":"THES49242"},"free":"","case":"CA6","shelf":"DR4","box":"20"}],"partTypes":[[{"text":"Napkin","id":""}]],"contentWarnings":[{"apprise":"","note":""}],"placesOfOrigin":[{"place":{"text":"Scotland","id":"x29130"},"association":{"text":"made","id":"x28654"},"note":"probably"}],"productionDates":[{"date":{"text":"1708","earliest":"1708-01-01","latest":"1708-12-31"},"association":{"text":"made","id":"x28654"},"note":""}],"associatedObjects":[],"creditLine":"Given by Maj. G. F. B. E. Massy MC","dimensions":[{"dimension":"Height","value":"97.7","unit":"cm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"","note":""},{"dimension":"Width","value":"82.8","unit":"cm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"","note":""}],"dimensionsNote":"Dimensions checked: measured post cons; 28/03/2000 by ML (cons)","marksAndInscriptions":[{"content":"Inscribed  'CHARLES EARLE OF HOPTOUN 1708'  and 'HENRETA COUNTES OF HOPTOUN 1708', with their Latin motto 'AT SPES INFRACTA'","inscriber":{"name":{"text":"","id":"A8877"},"association":{"text":"","id":""}},"date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"description":"","interpretation":"","language":"","medium":"","method":"","position":"","script":"","translation":"","transliteration":"","type":"","note":""}],"objectHistory":"Almost certainly woven in Scotland. Registered File no. 1931/21.","historicalContext":"","briefDescription":"Linen damask napkin; Scotland; 1708.","bibliographicReferences":[],"production":"Dated 1708","productionType":{"text":"","id":""},"contentDescription":"","contentPlaces":[],"associatedPlaces":[],"contentPerson":[],"associatedPerson":[],"contentOrganisations":[],"associatedOrganisations":[],"contentPeople":[],"associatedPeople":[],"contentEvents":[],"associatedEvents":[],"contentOthers":[{"text":"coronets (crowns)","id":"AAT213701"},{"text":"coats of arms","id":"AAT126352"},{"text":"flowers","id":"x35571"}],"contentConcepts":[],"contentLiteraryRefs":[],"galleryLabels":[{"text":"British Galleries:\nBy the early 18th century the Scottish linen industry was noted for its customised table linen, that was made to order. This was produced to compete with imported linen from Flanders (now Belgium) and The Netherlands. This napkin is woven with the arms of Charles, 1st Earl of Hopetoun (1681-1742) and his wife, Henrietta. The linen thread may have been spun in the Earl's household, and supplied directly to the damask weaver. Designs woven in damask are subtle and can be difficult to distinguish (see photograph), but such linens were intended to be seen and appreciated as luxury objects.","date":{"text":"27/03/2003","earliest":"2003-03-27","latest":"2003-03-27"}}],"partNumbers":["T.3-1931"],"accessionNumberNum":"3","accessionNumberPrefix":"T","accessionYear":1931,"otherNumbers":[],"copyNumber":"","aspects":["WHOLE"],"assets":["2019LP9636","2019LR6096","2019LV5814"],"recordModificationDate":"2025-04-25","recordCreationDate":"2003-03-27","availableToBook":false}}