{"meta":{"version":"2.1","_links":{"self":{"href":"https://api.vam.ac.uk/v2/object/O78027"},"collection_page":{"href":"https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O78027/"}},"images":{"_primary_thumbnail":"https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2006AL4577/full/!100,100/0/default.jpg","_iiif_image":"https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2006AL4577/","_alt_iiif_image":[],"imageResolution":"high","_images_meta":[{"assetRef":"2006AL4577","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2006AN3700","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false}]},"see_also":{"_iiif_pres":"https://iiif.vam.ac.uk/collections/O78027/manifest.json","_alt_iiif_pres":[]}},"record":{"systemNumber":"O78027","accessionNumber":"CIRC.190-1953","objectType":"Belt","titles":[],"summaryDescription":"Detachable collars and cuffs became popular as they added colour and decoration to the plainest of outfits.  Frequently used by the embroiderers of the Glasgow School of Art, existing photographs show the most famous exponents, Jessie Newbery and Anne Macbeth, dressed in examples of their own work.\r\n\r\nThis collar and belt (see also museum no. Circ.189-1953) are meticulously made. The collar fastens with a hand-made drawstring looped through an embroidered border at the neck edge.  The cord passes through specially worked detached eyelet holes, finished off with glass beads.  Similarly, the belt fastens with four metal-set glass bead fasteners (one missing). Newbery used Pearsall's Mallard Floss silks in her work.\r\n\r\nBoth items show a characteristic pattern of  'Glasgow' roses. However, the shape of the collar is evolved from Renaissance design. Jessie Newbery was greatly  interested in the decoration of this period and her own wedding dress, which she designed in 1889, was based on a St Ursula's dress in Carpaccio's painting (Accademia, Venice). Newbery believed design the most important element in her work.  Despite being highly stylised, her patterns are based on her lifelong interest in botany. Each element was reduced to a geometrical, almost abstract, shorthand which helped evolved the Glasgow style.","physicalDescription":"Embroidered Belt; linen ground with linen appliqué  embroidered with coloured silks, green glass & brass  buttons; thin strip of cream linen & pale green linen,  embroidered in pale pink, green & pale blue with 4  stylised Glasgow-Roses; long, straight, stylised stems  & leaves within a border. The roses are set  symettrically. At the lefthand end there are two hooks  with gren glass & brass buttons & at the righthand end  there are two green glass buttons which act as eyes.","artistMakerPerson":[{"name":{"text":"Newbery, Jessie","id":"A8692"},"association":{"text":"designer and maker","id":"x34662"},"note":""}],"artistMakerOrganisations":[],"artistMakerPeople":[],"materials":[{"text":"linen","id":"x29412"},{"text":"silk thread","id":"x30127"},{"text":"glass","id":"AAT10797"},{"text":"brass","id":"AAT10946"}],"techniques":[{"text":"embroidery","id":"x40351"},{"text":"appliqué","id":"AAT53646"}],"materialsAndTechniques":"linen, appliqué, silk floss embroidery, glass and brass buttons","categories":[{"text":"Textiles","id":"THES48885"},{"text":"Clothing","id":"THES48975"},{"text":"Scotland","id":"THES262877"},{"text":"Accessories","id":"THES48998"}],"styles":[{"text":"Art Nouveau","id":"AAT21430"}],"collectionCode":{"text":"T&F","id":"THES48601"},"images":["2006AL4577","2006AN3700"],"imageResolution":"high","galleryLocations":[{"current":{"text":"002","id":"THES309962"},"free":"","case":"","shelf":"","box":""}],"partTypes":[[{"text":"Belt","id":""}]],"contentWarnings":[{"apprise":"","note":""}],"placesOfOrigin":[{"place":{"text":"Glasgow (city)","id":"x28891"},"association":{"text":"made","id":"x28654"},"note":""}],"productionDates":[{"date":{"text":"ca. 1900","earliest":"1895-01-01","latest":"1904-12-31"},"association":{"text":"made","id":"x28654"},"note":""}],"associatedObjects":[{"object":{"text":"CIRC.189-1953","id":"O78026"},"association":"Ensemble"}],"creditLine":"Bequeathed by Mrs R.A. Walter","dimensions":[{"dimension":"Length","value":"74.9","unit":"cm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"","note":""},{"dimension":"Width","value":"5.1","unit":"cm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"","note":""}],"dimensionsNote":"Dimensions checked: Measured; 22/01/1999 by sf","marksAndInscriptions":[],"objectHistory":"Designed and made in Glasgow by Jessie Newbery (born in Paisley, Renfrewshire, 1864, died in Dorset, 1948). \r\n\r\nThe acquisition paperwork (Registered File: MA/1/F547) explains that the embroidered belt was acquired following its loan for display in the exhibition <i>Victorian and Edwardian Decorative Arts</i> in 1952-3.  ","historicalContext":"","briefDescription":"Embroidered belt, designed and embroidered by Jessie Newbery, Glasgow, ca. 1900","bibliographicReferences":[{"reference":{"text":"Greenhalgh, Paul (Ed.), Art Nouveau: 1890-1914 . London: V&A Publications, 2000","id":"AUTH352192"},"details":"","free":""},{"reference":{"text":"","id":""},"details":"","free":"<i>Glasgow girls: women in art and design, 1880-1920</i>, exh. cat., Glasgow Kelvingrove Museum, Glasgow 1990 \r\n\r\nV&amp;A departmental accession folders note that the collar and belt (CIRC.189-1953 and CIRC.190-1953) were published within this exhibition catalogue but were not exhibited. "},{"reference":{"text":"<i>Exhibition of Victorian & Edwardian Decorative Arts; Catalogue</i>, London, H.M. Stationery Office, 1952","id":"AUTH357924"},"details":"","free":""}],"production":"","productionType":{"text":"","id":""},"contentDescription":"","contentPlaces":[],"associatedPlaces":[],"contentPerson":[],"associatedPerson":[],"contentOrganisations":[],"associatedOrganisations":[],"contentPeople":[],"associatedPeople":[],"contentEvents":[],"associatedEvents":[],"contentOthers":[],"contentConcepts":[],"contentLiteraryRefs":[],"galleryLabels":[{"text":"British Galleries:\nThe decoration of artistic clothing provided an ideal opportunity for students of embroidery at the Glasgow School of Art. The shape of  this collar was influenced by Renaissance examples but the design was radical and modern.  The rose and leaf motifs are reduced  to the geometrical, almost abstract, shorthand of the Glasgow style.","date":{"text":"27/03/2003","earliest":"2003-03-27","latest":"2003-03-27"}}],"partNumbers":["CIRC.190-1953"],"accessionNumberNum":"190","accessionNumberPrefix":"CIRC","accessionYear":1953,"otherNumbers":[],"copyNumber":"","aspects":["WHOLE"],"assets":["2019LP3891","2019LV5844"],"recordModificationDate":"2025-11-25","recordCreationDate":"2003-03-27","availableToBook":true}}