{"meta":{"version":"2.1","_links":{"self":{"href":"https://api.vam.ac.uk/v2/object/O78026"},"collection_page":{"href":"https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O78026/"}},"images":{"_primary_thumbnail":"https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2006AL2593/full/!100,100/0/default.jpg","_iiif_image":"https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2006AL2593/","_alt_iiif_image":[],"imageResolution":"high","_images_meta":[{"assetRef":"2006AL2593","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2006AN3700","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false}]},"see_also":{"_iiif_pres":"https://iiif.vam.ac.uk/collections/O78026/manifest.json","_alt_iiif_pres":[]}},"record":{"systemNumber":"O78026","accessionNumber":"CIRC.189-1953","objectType":"Collar","titles":[],"summaryDescription":"Detachable collars and cuffs were popular because they added colour and decoration to the plainest of outfits.  They were frequently used by the embroiderers of the Glasgow School of Art and existing photographs show the most famous exponents, Jessie Newbery and Anne Macbeth, dressed in examples of their own work.\r\n\r\nThis collar and belt (see also museum no. Circ.190-1953) are meticulously made. The collar fastens with a hand-made drawstring looped through an embroidered border at the neck edge.  The cord passes through specially worked detached eyelet holes, finished off with glass beads. Similarly, the belt fastens with four metal-set glass bead fasteners (one missing). Newbery used Pearsall's Mallard Floss silks in her work.\r\n\r\nBoth items show a characteristic pattern of  'Glasgow' roses. However, the shape of the collar is evolved from Renaissance design. Jessie Newbery was greatly  interested in the decoration of this period and her own wedding dress, which she designed in 1889, was based on a St Ursula's dress in Carpaccio's painting (Accademia, Venice). Newbery believed design to be the most important element in her work.  Despite being highly stylised, her patterns are based on her lifelong interest in botany. Each element was reduced to a geometrical, almost abstract shorthand which helped evolved the Glasgow style.","physicalDescription":"Collar embroidered with a design of stylised 'Glasgow roses' in pink, green, and ivory","artistMakerPerson":[{"name":{"text":"Newbery, Jessie","id":"A8692"},"association":{"text":"designer and maker","id":"x34662"},"note":""}],"artistMakerOrganisations":[],"artistMakerPeople":[],"materials":[{"text":"silk (textile)","id":"AAT243428"},{"text":"beads","id":"x32809"},{"text":"needle lace","id":"AAT231662"}],"techniques":[{"text":"embroidering","id":"AAT53653"}],"materialsAndTechniques":"Silk ground, with appliqué of silk, embroidered in silk threads in satin stitch and couching, with glass bead and needle lace trimmings","categories":[{"text":"Textiles","id":"THES48885"},{"text":"Clothing","id":"THES48975"},{"text":"Scotland","id":"THES262877"},{"text":"Europeana Fashion Project","id":"THES265804"}],"styles":[{"text":"Art Nouveau","id":"AAT21430"}],"collectionCode":{"text":"T&F","id":"THES48601"},"images":["2006AL2593","2006AN3700"],"imageResolution":"high","galleryLocations":[{"current":{"text":"002","id":"THES309962"},"free":"","case":"","shelf":"","box":""}],"partTypes":[[{"text":"Collar (neckwear)","id":""}]],"contentWarnings":[{"apprise":"","note":""}],"placesOfOrigin":[{"place":{"text":"Glasgow","id":"x28891"},"association":{"text":"made","id":"x28654"},"note":""}],"productionDates":[{"date":{"text":"ca. 1900","earliest":"1895-01-01","latest":"1904-12-31"},"association":{"text":"made","id":"x28654"},"note":""}],"associatedObjects":[{"object":{"text":"CIRC.190-1953","id":"O78027"},"association":"Ensemble"}],"creditLine":"Bequeathed by Mrs R.A. Walter","dimensions":[{"dimension":"Height","value":"32.4","unit":"cm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"","note":""},{"dimension":"Width","value":"71.1","unit":"cm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"","note":""}],"dimensionsNote":"Dimensions checked: Measured; 22/01/1999 by sf","marksAndInscriptions":[],"objectHistory":"Designed and made in Glasgow by Jessie Newbery (born in Paisley, Renfrewshire, 1864, died in Dorset, 1948).\n\nThe acquisition paperwork (Registered File: MA/1/F547) explains that the embroidered collar was acquired following its loan for display in the exhibition <i>Victorian and Edwardian Decorative Arts</i> in 1952-3. \r\n\r\n ","historicalContext":"","briefDescription":"Embroidered collar, designed and embroidered by Jessie Newbery, Glasgow, ca. 1900","bibliographicReferences":[{"reference":{"text":"Greenhalgh, Paul (Ed.), Art Nouveau: 1890-1914 . London: V&A Publications, 2000","id":"AUTH352192"},"details":"","free":""},{"reference":{"text":"Livingstone, Karen & Parry, Linda (eds.), <i>International Arts and Crafts</i>, London : V&A Publications, 2005","id":"AUTH357959"},"details":"p.75","free":""},{"reference":{"text":"","id":""},"details":"","free":"<i>Glasgow girls: women in art and design, 1880-1920</i>, exh. cat., Glasgow Kelvingrove Museum, Glasgow 1990\n\nV&amp;A departmental accession folders note that the collar and belt (CIRC.189-1953 and CIRC.190-1953) were published within this exhibition catalogue but were not exhibited."},{"reference":{"text":"<i>Exhibition of Victorian & Edwardian Decorative Arts; Catalogue</i>, London, H.M. Stationery Office, 1952","id":"AUTH357924"},"details":"","free":""}],"production":"","productionType":{"text":"","id":""},"contentDescription":"","contentPlaces":[],"associatedPlaces":[],"contentPerson":[],"associatedPerson":[],"contentOrganisations":[],"associatedOrganisations":[],"contentPeople":[],"associatedPeople":[],"contentEvents":[],"associatedEvents":[],"contentOthers":[],"contentConcepts":[],"contentLiteraryRefs":[],"galleryLabels":[{"text":"British Galleries:\nThe decoration of artistic clothing provided an ideal opportunity for students of embroidery at the Glasgow School of Art. The shape of  this collar was influenced by Renaissance examples but the design was radical and modern.  The rose and leaf motifs are reduced  to the geometrical, almost abstract, shorthand of the Glasgow style.","date":{"text":"27/03/2003","earliest":"2003-03-27","latest":"2003-03-27"}}],"partNumbers":["CIRC.189-1953"],"accessionNumberNum":"189","accessionNumberPrefix":"CIRC","accessionYear":1953,"otherNumbers":[],"copyNumber":"","aspects":["WHOLE"],"assets":["2019LR5146","2019LV6353"],"recordModificationDate":"2026-02-23","recordCreationDate":"2003-03-27","availableToBook":true}}