{"meta":{"version":"2.1","_links":{"self":{"href":"https://api.vam.ac.uk/v2/object/O77731"},"collection_page":{"href":"https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O77731/"}},"images":{"_primary_thumbnail":"https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2006AL2908/full/!100,100/0/default.jpg","_iiif_image":"https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2006AL2908/","_alt_iiif_image":[],"imageResolution":"high","_images_meta":[{"assetRef":"2006AL2908","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2006AL2907","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2012FR0801","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2012FR0853","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2011EV8057","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false}]},"see_also":{"_iiif_pres":"https://iiif.vam.ac.uk/collections/O77731/manifest.json","_alt_iiif_pres":[]}},"record":{"systemNumber":"O77731","accessionNumber":"793-1901","objectType":"Cloak","titles":[],"summaryDescription":"<b>Object Type</b><br>A cloak was the third item of dress in a man's ensemble at the end of the 16th century. It was worn with a doublet and trunk hose.  While most cloaks were used for protection, those made of expensive fabrics such as this silk were primarily symbols of wealth and social status.<br><br><b>Materials & Making</b><br>Cloaks of the late 16th century were usually cut in the shape of a half, three-quarter or complete circle, depending on how much fabric the wearer could afford.  The narrow width of the silk, about 56 centimetres, meant that the cloak was constructed of lengths of the fabric, hand sewn together and carefully pieced to avoid any waste.<br><br>The cost of the dye process was part of the expense of the silk.  Red dyes were particularly expensive.  This silk may have been coloured using cochineal, a dye obtained from an insect living on the <i>Opuntia</i> cactus that grew in the Spanish territories in Central America.  By the end of the 16th century, cochineal was being cultivated and imported to Europe in great quantities.<br><br><b>Design & Designing</b><br>The embroidery on the cloak is typical of the 1590s.  In particular, the metal thread has been couched down in a pattern of interlaced bands known as strapwork.  This style of decoration, imitating carved fretwork or bands of leather, originated in France in the 1530s and became popular throughout Northern Europe by the end of the 16th century.","physicalDescription":"Man’s half-circular cloak of crimson satin, interlined with pink linen, with a 3-inch (7.5 cm) standing collar.  Each front edge has a 5⅝-inch (14.3 cm) border of embroidery in yellow, green, white and blue silk floss, silver and silver gilt filé and purl, couched in a design of swags and cartouches recalling the mannerist ornament style of Fontainebleu.  Around the hem, a border of ornamental fleur-de-lys is couched with silver-gilt filé. The collar, fronts and hem are edged with crimson silk floss and silver-gilt filé fringe.\r\n\r\nThe cloak probably had a silk lining which is now missing. The crimson silk ties and tassels are later additions.","artistMakerPerson":[{"name":{"text":"Unknown","id":"A1848"},"association":{"text":"","id":""},"note":""}],"artistMakerOrganisations":[],"artistMakerPeople":[],"materials":[{"text":"silk (textile)","id":"AAT243428"},{"text":"metal thread","id":"x30421"},{"text":"linen (material)","id":"AAT14069"}],"techniques":[{"text":"hand weaving","id":"AAT53643"},{"text":"satin weave","id":"x37324"},{"text":"hand embroidery","id":"x30339"},{"text":"hand sewing","id":"AAT257459"}],"materialsAndTechniques":"Silk, linen, silver, gold; hand-woven, satin weave, hand-embroidered, hand-sewn","categories":[{"text":"Europeana Fashion Project","id":"THES265804"},{"text":"Fashion","id":"THES48957"},{"text":"Men's clothes","id":"THES49043"}],"styles":[],"collectionCode":{"text":"T&F","id":"THES48601"},"images":["2006AL2908","2006AL2907","2012FR0801","2012FR0853","2011EV8057"],"imageResolution":"high","galleryLocations":[{"current":{"text":"002","id":"THES310212"},"free":"","case":"","shelf":"","box":""}],"partTypes":[[{"text":"Cloak","id":""}]],"contentWarnings":[{"apprise":"","note":""}],"placesOfOrigin":[{"place":{"text":"France","id":"x28849"},"association":{"text":"made","id":"x28654"},"note":""}],"productionDates":[{"date":{"text":"1580-1600","earliest":"1580-01-01","latest":"1600-12-31"},"association":{"text":"made","id":"x28654"},"note":""}],"associatedObjects":[],"creditLine":"","dimensions":[{"dimension":"Length","value":"98.4","unit":"cm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"","note":""},{"dimension":"Width","value":"196.9","unit":"cm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"maximum","note":""}],"dimensionsNote":"Dimensions checked: Measured/esimated; 01/12/2000 by NH","marksAndInscriptions":[],"objectHistory":"","historicalContext":"","briefDescription":"Man's crimson satin cloak, French, 1580-1600, metal thread embroidery","bibliographicReferences":[],"production":"","productionType":{"text":"","id":""},"contentDescription":"","contentPlaces":[],"associatedPlaces":[],"contentPerson":[],"associatedPerson":[],"contentOrganisations":[],"associatedOrganisations":[],"contentPeople":[],"associatedPeople":[],"contentEvents":[],"associatedEvents":[],"contentOthers":[],"contentConcepts":[],"contentLiteraryRefs":[],"galleryLabels":[{"text":"British Galleries:\nA cloak was an essential part of a gentleman's ensemble. It showed off the design of an expensive fabric and allowed a dramatic flourish while bowing, on entering or leaving a room. This cloak illustrates the influences of French fashions in England throughout the reign of Elizabeth I. England's alliance with France served to counteract Spain's political power.","date":{"text":"27/03/2003","earliest":"2003-03-27","latest":"2003-03-27"}},{"text":"Treasures of the Royal Courts: Tudors, Stuarts and the Russian Tsars label text: \r\n\r\nMan’s cloak\r\n1580–1600\r\n\r\nA cloak was an essential part of a gentleman’s\r\nensemble at the Elizabethan court. It was worn over\r\ndoublet and hose (stockings) and sometimes\r\ndecorated to match them. Cloaks made of\r\nexpensive fabrics, such as this silk example, were\r\nprimarily symbols of wealth and social status.\r\n\r\nFrance\r\nSilk satin, embroidered with metal thread and silk\r\nV&A 793-1901","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null}}],"partNumbers":["793-1901"],"accessionNumberNum":"793","accessionNumberPrefix":"","accessionYear":1901,"otherNumbers":[{"type":{"text":"RF number","id":"THES57673"},"number":"RP 83775/1901"}],"copyNumber":"","aspects":["WHOLE"],"assets":["2019LP3362","2019LU2208"],"recordModificationDate":"2026-04-09","recordCreationDate":"2003-03-27","availableToBook":false}}