{"meta":{"version":"2.1","_links":{"self":{"href":"https://api.vam.ac.uk/v2/object/O77059"},"collection_page":{"href":"https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O77059/"}},"images":{"_primary_thumbnail":"https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2018KV2464/full/!100,100/0/default.jpg","_iiif_image":"https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2018KV2464/","_alt_iiif_image":[],"imageResolution":"low","_images_meta":[{"assetRef":"2018KV2464","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false}]},"see_also":null},"record":{"systemNumber":"O77059","accessionNumber":"T.493-2002","objectType":"Trade sample","titles":[],"summaryDescription":"\r\n\r\nFancy print cotton fabric, designed and produced for the West African market. Fancy prints are an off-shoot of the European production of  ankara, a printed cotton cloth produced in a variety of patterns formed by the layering of polychromatic dyes. Fashionable in West and East  Africa since the late 19th century, ankara is variously known as 'African wax' or 'Dutch wax' print – despite wax rarely being used in its manufacture. Embodying  the overlapping colonial interests that prevailed in the region and beyond, the cloth has a complex history – rooted in trade monopolisation and cultural appropriation, yet acting as a conduit for African agency and resistance. Originally produced in the Netherlands, ankara emerged from experiments to mechanically replicate batik,  an Indonesian wax-print cloth traditionally developed by hand. Early Dutch attempts roller-printed a resin-resist onto both sides of the cloth before dyeing; the resist  was then washed out, with additional layers of colour added by repeating this process, hand-blocking and/or roller-printing. The intended export market of Indonesia  did not respond well to this imitation batik, as the resin was prone to cracking and bubbling, producing defects in the print. A keen market for the cloth did, however,  emerge across West Africa in the 1890s, such that several factories – chiefly in Britain and the Netherlands – began producing ankara with this new customer in  mind. Responding to market feedback on popular colours and patterns, European producers adapted ankara designs to suit the tastes of their  discerning West African customers. In a collaboration between the consumer, dealer and manufacturer, local sellers would inform European  merchants which styles were in demand and suggest motifs that would likely sell well.\r\n\r\nFancy prints emerged around 1930, as experiments with ankara production progressed. Unlike ankara, fancy prints do not use a resin-resist, and are only printed on one side of the cloth, creating a crisper finish more suitable for the photographic imagery often used within commemorative textiles. Many examples of  fancy prints do, however, purposefully include the imperfections that originally marred Dutch attempts to replicate batik – in an attempt mimic  the more esteemed  resin-resist technique.\r\n\r\nThis particular design was likely created to commemorate the 1937 coronation of King George VI, designed for export into West Africa, much of which  was colonised by the British Empire.  \r\n\r\n","physicalDescription":"Printed cotton textile produced to mark the 1937 Coronation of King George VI.  Blue and white fleur de lys ground with red 'curtain' pelmet design holding Royal Coat of Arms in white, gold and blue, below which are two trumpeters. A rose and crown patterned carpet leads to two thrones on a red and gold stepped platform, each containing black/white photographic image of George VI & Elizabeth. Label reading 'Portraits of their Majesties the King and Queen, and devices of the Royal Insignia, Royal Arms, Prince of Wales's feathers, flags and West African flag badge disclaimed'. Made for West African market. 2 selvedges.","artistMakerPerson":[],"artistMakerOrganisations":[{"name":{"text":"The United Africa Company Ltd","id":"A9317"},"association":{"text":"manufacturer","id":"AAT25230"},"note":"The United Africa Company is one of several companies - principally British or Dutch – who in the early 20th century designed, printed, exported and/or distributed factory-printed cotton textiles for the West African market. Merchant traders such as UAC acted as middlemen between European manufacturers and West African consumers, bridging the geographical and cultural gap that separated them through their use of market knowledge, which ultimately influenced the design and distribution of such textiles. \r\n\r\n"}],"artistMakerPeople":[],"materials":[{"text":"Cotton","id":"AAT14067"}],"techniques":[{"text":"Printing","id":"AAT53319"}],"materialsAndTechniques":"Printed cotton","categories":[{"text":"Textiles","id":"THES48885"},{"text":"Royalty","id":"THES48899"},{"text":"Africa","id":"THES49019"}],"styles":[],"collectionCode":{"text":"T&F","id":"THES48601"},"images":["2018KV2464"],"imageResolution":"low","galleryLocations":[{"current":{"text":"009","id":"THES308948"},"free":"","case":"","shelf":"","box":""}],"partTypes":[[{"text":"Sample","id":""}]],"contentWarnings":[{"apprise":"","note":""}],"placesOfOrigin":[{"place":{"text":"London","id":"x28980"},"association":{"text":"made","id":"x28654"},"note":""}],"productionDates":[{"date":{"text":"12/04/1937","earliest":"1937-04-12","latest":"1937-04-12"},"association":{"text":"made","id":"x28654"},"note":""}],"associatedObjects":[],"creditLine":"","dimensions":[{"dimension":"Width","value":"124","unit":"cm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"","note":""},{"dimension":"Length","value":"123","unit":"cm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"","note":""}],"dimensionsNote":"","marksAndInscriptions":[{"content":"'372628'","inscriber":{"name":{"text":"","id":""},"association":{"text":"","id":""}},"date":{"text":"1937","earliest":"1937-01-01","latest":"1937-12-31"},"description":"","interpretation":"","language":"","medium":"","method":"","position":"printed on fabric","script":"Patent Office Registration Number","translation":"","transliteration":"","type":"Registration number","note":"Registration number; Patent Office Registration Number; printed on fabric; 1937"}],"objectHistory":"","historicalContext":"","briefDescription":"Textile sample, printed cotton, traded by The United Africa Company Ltd, London, 1937","bibliographicReferences":[],"production":"The United Africa Company is one of several companies - principally British or Dutch - who in the early 20th century designed, printed, exported and/or distributed  factory-printed cotton textiles for the West African market. Merchant traders such as UAC acted as middlemen between European manufacturers and West African consumers, bridging the geographical and cultural gap that separated them through their use of market knowledge, which ultimately influenced the design and distribution of such textiles. ","productionType":{"text":"","id":""},"contentDescription":"","contentPlaces":[],"associatedPlaces":[],"contentPerson":[],"associatedPerson":[],"contentOrganisations":[],"associatedOrganisations":[],"contentPeople":[],"associatedPeople":[],"contentEvents":[],"associatedEvents":[],"contentOthers":[],"contentConcepts":[],"contentLiteraryRefs":[],"galleryLabels":[],"partNumbers":["T.493-2002"],"accessionNumberNum":"493","accessionNumberPrefix":"T","accessionYear":2002,"otherNumbers":[],"copyNumber":"","aspects":["WHOLE"],"assets":[],"recordModificationDate":"2025-04-12","recordCreationDate":"2003-03-24","availableToBook":true}}