{"meta":{"version":"2.1","_links":{"self":{"href":"https://api.vam.ac.uk/v2/object/O75444"},"collection_page":{"href":"https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O75444/"}},"images":{"_primary_thumbnail":"https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2017JV6691/full/!100,100/0/default.jpg","_iiif_image":"https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2017JV6691/","_alt_iiif_image":[],"imageResolution":"low","_images_meta":[{"assetRef":"2017JV6691","copyright":"©Victoria & Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2017JV6692","copyright":"©Victoria & Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false}]},"see_also":null},"record":{"systemNumber":"O75444","accessionNumber":"S.259-1999","objectType":"Theatre costume","titles":[],"summaryDescription":"","physicalDescription":"Mid 18th century style collarless short sleeved coat in olive-bistre furnishing velvet, each sleeve finishing in a cuff of matching synthentic ribbed fabric.  Down each front edge of the coat is a band of dark brown velvet edged with black braid with a second black braid within the band, beyond which towards the sides is a further band of orange distressed velvet to which is attached a black braid and a band of distressed cotton lace wrapped around with a novelty cord braid in black and gold. The buttons and buttonholes are attached to a panel of the olive-bistre synthetic ribbed fabric fixed under the front edges.  Around the lower edge of the coat and up the side slits are loops of olive bistre velvet ribbon.  On either side of the jacket is a slit pocket with a row of buttons and false buttonholes.  Around the back slit is a band of the dark brown velvet ribbon trimmed with black braid, as on the front panels.  Down each sleeve at shoulder and under the cuff and at the lower edge of each cuff are fixed bands of dark brown velvet edged with black braid; on the cuff is a band of the orange velvet and cotton lace braid as on the fronts.  From the lower edge of each sleeve hang loops of olive bistre velvet ribbon.  The coat has been distressed in random spotting and vertical striping.  The coat is lined with plum and black shot synthetic silk.","artistMakerPerson":[{"name":{"text":"Stone, Alix","id":"A5363"},"association":{"text":"Costume designer","id":"AAT163428"},"note":""}],"artistMakerOrganisations":[{"name":{"text":"Bonn & Mackenzie","id":"A5322"},"association":{"text":"Costume maker","id":"x30531"},"note":""}],"artistMakerPeople":[],"materials":[{"text":"Velvet","id":"AAT133711"},{"text":"Synthetic fabric","id":"x33026"},{"text":"Cotton yarn","id":"x30425"},{"text":"braid","id":"AAT232186"},{"text":"Lurex","id":"x32839"},{"text":"Velvet ribbon","id":"x34768"},{"text":"Synthetic silk","id":"x30584"}],"techniques":[{"text":"Machine stitching","id":"x29587"},{"text":"Hand stitching","id":"x30413"}],"materialsAndTechniques":"Velvet, synthetic fabric, cotton lace, braid, lurex cord, velvet ribbon and synthetic silk","categories":[{"text":"Entertainment & Leisure","id":"THES48959"},{"text":"Opera","id":"THES263971"},{"text":"Theatre costume","id":"THES268477"}],"styles":[],"collectionCode":{"text":"T&P","id":"THES48602"},"images":["2017JV6691","2017JV6692"],"imageResolution":"low","galleryLocations":[{"current":{"text":"002","id":"THES366654"},"free":"","case":"","shelf":"","box":""}],"partTypes":[[{"text":"theatre costumes","id":"x47007"}],[{"text":"coats","id":"AAT46143"}]],"contentWarnings":[{"apprise":"","note":""}],"placesOfOrigin":[],"productionDates":[{"date":{"text":"1965","earliest":"1965-01-01","latest":"1965-12-31"},"association":{"text":"Made","id":"x28654"},"note":""}],"associatedObjects":[{"object":{"text":"S.218-2001","id":"O59150"},"association":""}],"creditLine":"","dimensions":[{"dimension":"Length","value":"102","unit":"cm","qualifier":"approximate","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"Collar to hem","note":""},{"dimension":"Width","value":"78","unit":"cm","qualifier":"approximate","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"widest point","note":""},{"dimension":"Weight","value":"2.8","unit":"kg","qualifier":"approximate","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"","note":""}],"dimensionsNote":"","marksAndInscriptions":[{"content":"\"(printed) BONN & MACKENZIE / LTD. / TEMPLE BAR 1393 / (handwritten)  BOWMAN / TOOLEY / MINES OF SULPHUR\"","inscriber":{"name":{"text":"","id":""},"association":{"text":"","id":""}},"date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"description":"","interpretation":"","language":"","medium":"","method":"","position":"Back neck (stitched to fabric)","script":"","translation":"","transliteration":"","type":"Label","note":"Label; Back neck (stitched to fabric)"},{"content":"\"(printed) ENGLISH NATIONAL OPERA NORTH / PRODUCTION: (handwritten) Mines of / Sulphur / (printed) ACT: SCENE: / Character (handwritten) TOOLEY / (printed) Name (handwritten) M LEWIS\"","inscriber":{"name":{"text":"","id":""},"association":{"text":"","id":""}},"date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"description":"","interpretation":"","language":"","medium":"","method":"","position":"Back neck (sewn over original label)","script":"","translation":"","transliteration":"","type":"Label","note":"Label; Back neck (sewn over original label)"}],"objectHistory":"The costume was designed by Alix Stone for the character of Tooley in Richard Rodney Bennett's first opera The Mines of Sulphur, Sadler's Wells Opera, 1965.  It was later revived at the Coliseum when the Sadler's Wells Opera had become English National Opera, and later at English National Opera North.\n\nHistorical significance: The costume is the work of a distinguished theatrical designer for an opera by Richard Rodney Bennett, who was to become one of Britain's most distinguished composers.  Bennett's previous music had been primarily for film and this was his first excursion into opera.","historicalContext":"","briefDescription":"Costume designed by Alix Stone for Tooley in Richard Rodney Bennett's opera The Mines of Sulphur, Sadler's Wells Opera, 1965","bibliographicReferences":[],"production":"","productionType":{"text":"","id":""},"contentDescription":"","contentPlaces":[],"associatedPlaces":[],"contentPerson":[],"associatedPerson":[],"contentOrganisations":[],"associatedOrganisations":[],"contentPeople":[],"associatedPeople":[],"contentEvents":[],"associatedEvents":[],"contentOthers":[],"contentConcepts":[],"contentLiteraryRefs":[],"galleryLabels":[],"partNumbers":["S.259-1999"],"accessionNumberNum":"259","accessionNumberPrefix":"S","accessionYear":1999,"otherNumbers":[],"copyNumber":"","aspects":["WHOLE"],"assets":[],"recordModificationDate":"2025-04-24","recordCreationDate":"2003-02-26","availableToBook":true}}