{"meta":{"version":"2.1","_links":{"self":{"href":"https://api.vam.ac.uk/v2/object/O75194"},"collection_page":{"href":"https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O75194/"}},"images":{"_primary_thumbnail":"https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2025PD4611/full/!100,100/0/default.jpg","_iiif_image":"https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2025PD4611/","_alt_iiif_image":[],"imageResolution":"low","_images_meta":[{"assetRef":"2025PD4611","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2025PD4618","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2025PD4624","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2025PD4619","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2025PD4622","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2025PD4623","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2025PD4633","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2015HK3738","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2015HK3744","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2015HK3740","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2015HK3741","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2015HK3742","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2015HK3743","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2015HK3739","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2006AU0517","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2006AL0564","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false}]},"see_also":null},"record":{"systemNumber":"O75194","accessionNumber":"T.399&A-1974","objectType":"Evening suit","titles":[{"title":"Pagan","type":"named collection"}],"summaryDescription":"Elsa Schiaparelli (1890–1973) was one of the world’s revolutionary fashion designers. Her   couture house, one of the most discussed of interwar Paris, redefined fashionable taste and   perceptions of beauty in the 20th century. With no formal training, she launched her first fashion collection in 1927. Her bold, often audacious, haute couture creations soon made her the designer   of choice for a confident clientele. Within five years, Maison Schiaparelli employed 400 staff   who created over 7000 couture garments each year.  \n\r\nOften designing to confront and shock, Schiaparelli’s radical approach embraced the new   and experimental, resulting in clothes that were resolutely modern. Perhaps more than any   fashion designer of the era, Schiaparelli urged textile manufacturers to bring her their   newest and best materials. At the same time, Schiaparelli’s impact extended beyond   fashion and she possessed a vibrant artistic sensibility. Embedded within Europe’s creative   avantgarde, she positioned her work in direct dialogue with art, design and performance. Her collaborations with artists, including Salvador Dalí, Jean Cocteau and Meret Oppenheim, led to   some of her most radical and memorable designs for clothing, accessories and jewellery. In 1954, Schiaparelli officially retired and closed the doors of her couture salon. She left an enduring mark on the world of fashion and a creative legacy that spanned the cities of Paris, London and New York.\r\n\r\nThis stylish ensemble was worn by Lady Alexandra Haig (later Trevor-Roper) at a masked carol party in December 1938. It was designed by Elsa Schiaparelli (1890-1973). It was made and sold in Schiaparelli's London salon which opened at 6 Upper Grosvenor Street in the fashionable shopping district of Mayfair in 1933.","physicalDescription":"Evening ensemble consisting of satin dress and jacket.\r\nBlack jacket of satin backed marocain, with long sleeves. It is fitted, collarless and single-breasted with two gathered patch pockets. It front fastens with a row of five composition buttons in black, cast in the shape of leaves. The neck edge is decorated with a bold embroidered pattern of curving leafy stems in raised work - two types of flat gold gilt over other metallic threads - pink glass beads and rows of diamantés. The large leaves overlap the neck edge and shoulder seam. The 'leg of mutton' sleeves are wide at the top and gathered into the armhole. Lined throughout in black crêpe-de-Chine.\r\nLong black dress in satin backed marocain. It is sleeveless and slim fitting, cut to flare at the bottom. The front has two raised darts under the bust and the low V neck is decorated with a ruffle. The back is low and square with a shirred bodice. The dress side fastens at the left with a bold black plastic 'Lightning' zip made by ICI. ","artistMakerPerson":[{"name":{"text":"Elsa Schiaparelli","id":"A2375"},"association":{"text":"designer","id":"x36960"},"note":""}],"artistMakerOrganisations":[],"artistMakerPeople":[],"materials":[{"text":"rayon","id":"AAT14059"},{"text":"satin","id":"AAT132902"},{"text":"metal thread","id":"x30421"},{"text":"beads","id":"x32809"},{"text":"diamante","id":"x33303"},{"text":"crepe","id":"AAT183741"}],"techniques":[{"text":"sewing","id":"AAT53658"}],"materialsAndTechniques":"Rayon marocain, backed with satin, embroidered with various gilt threads, beads and diamantés, lined in crêpe-de-Chine","categories":[{"text":"Evening wear","id":"THES48999"},{"text":"Embroidery","id":"THES48960"},{"text":"Fashion","id":"THES48957"},{"text":"Womenswear","id":"THES49044"}],"styles":[],"collectionCode":{"text":"T&F","id":"THES48601"},"images":["2025PD4611","2025PD4618","2025PD4624","2025PD4619","2025PD4622","2025PD4623","2025PD4633","2015HK3738","2015HK3744","2015HK3740","2015HK3741","2015HK3742","2015HK3743","2015HK3739","2006AU0517","2006AL0564"],"imageResolution":"low","galleryLocations":[{"current":{"text":"SAINS","id":"THES276095"},"free":"","case":"FIG081","shelf":"","box":""},{"current":{"text":"SAINS","id":"THES276095"},"free":"","case":"FIG081","shelf":"","box":""}],"partTypes":[[{"text":"Evening jacket","id":""}],[{"text":"Evening dress","id":""}]],"contentWarnings":[{"apprise":"","note":""},{"apprise":"","note":""},{"apprise":"","note":""}],"placesOfOrigin":[{"place":{"text":"London","id":"x28980"},"association":{"text":"made","id":"x28654"},"note":""}],"productionDates":[{"date":{"text":"1938-1939","earliest":"1938-10-01","latest":"1939-02-28"},"association":{"text":"designed","id":"x29338"},"note":"fall/winter"}],"associatedObjects":[],"creditLine":"Given by Lady Alexandra Trevor-Roper","dimensions":[],"dimensionsNote":"","marksAndInscriptions":[{"content":"Label printed in black on white petersham 'Schiaparelli London' with the number '6313'","inscriber":{"name":{"text":"","id":""},"association":{"text":"","id":""}},"date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"description":"","interpretation":"","language":"","medium":"","method":"","position":"","script":"","translation":"","transliteration":"","type":"","note":"evening jacket"},{"content":"Bottom right back seam has the 'Schiaparelli London' label with the number '6313'.","inscriber":{"name":{"text":"","id":""},"association":{"text":"","id":""}},"date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"description":"","interpretation":"","language":"","medium":"","method":"","position":"","script":"","translation":"","transliteration":"","type":"","note":"evening dress"}],"objectHistory":"Elsa Schiaparelli (1890–1973) was one of the world’s revolutionary fashion designers. Her couture house, one of the most discussed of interwar Paris, redefined fashionable taste and perceptions of beauty in the 20th century.  With no formal training, she launched her first fashion collection in 1927. Her bold, often audacious, haute couture creations soon made her the designer of choice for a confident clientele. Within five years, Maison Schiaparelli employed 400 staff who created over 7000 couture garments each year.  \r\n\r\nOften designing to confront and shock, Schiaparelli’s radical approach embraced the new and experimental, resulting in clothes that were resolutely modern. Perhaps more than any fashion designer of the era, Schiaparelli urged textile manufacturers to bring her their newest and best materials. At the same time, Schiaparelli’s impact extended beyond fashion and she possessed a vibrant artistic sensibility. Embedded within Europe’s creative avantgarde, she positioned her work in direct dialogue with art, design and performance. Her collaborations with artists, including Salvador Dalí, Jean Cocteau and Meret Oppenheim, led to some of her most radical and memorable designs for clothing, accessories and jewellery. In 1954, Schiaparelli officially retired and closed the doors of her couture salon. She left an enduring mark on the world of fashion and a creative legacy that spanned the cities of Paris, London and New York.  \r\n\r\nAnother version of this jacket is held by the Metropolitan Museum, New York. (Met Museum number 1974.338.4)\n\n\n\tPhoto notes: \r\nCollar front: leaves are encroaching upon the neckline and neck.  Leaf shaped buttons.  Likely from the Pagan collection (1938).\r\n\t\r\n\tPocket detail: pouch shaped pockets at the bottom\r\n\tFront: Classic padded shoulders.  Very classic Schiaparelli dinner suit\r\n\r\nJan G. Reeder, Curator, The Costume Institute, The Metropolitan Museum of Art\r\nTaken May, 2011, Compiled September, 2011\r\n","historicalContext":"","briefDescription":"Evening ensemble consisting of satin dress and jacket, designed by Schiaparelli, London, fall 1938. (Pagan Collection).","bibliographicReferences":[],"production":"","productionType":{"text":"","id":""},"contentDescription":"","contentPlaces":[],"associatedPlaces":[],"contentPerson":[],"associatedPerson":[],"contentOrganisations":[],"associatedOrganisations":[],"contentPeople":[],"associatedPeople":[],"contentEvents":[],"associatedEvents":[],"contentOthers":[],"contentConcepts":[],"contentLiteraryRefs":[],"galleryLabels":[{"text":"<i><b>Schiaparelli: Fashion Becomes Art</b></i><b> (March - November 2026)</b>\n\nGold leaf\n\nLady Alexandra Haig wore Schiaparelli designs to attend the whirlwind of social events enjoyed by London’s smart set. For a Christmas carolling party at the residence of the Marquess of Londonderry, she chose this evening suit from the Pagan collection. The golden leaves winding round the lapels soften the jacket’s neatly tailored line.\n\nEvening suit\r\nElsa Schiaparelli\r\nAutumn 1938, Pagan collection\r\nDesigned in Paris; made in London\r\nRayon marocain, metal strip, beads, crystals (jacket); painted resin (buttons); rayon marocain (dress)\r\nV&amp;A: T.399&amp;A-1974\r\nGiven by Lady Alexandra Trevor-Roper","date":{"text":"2026","earliest":"2026-01-01","latest":"2026-12-31"}}],"partNumbers":["T.399A-1974","T.399-1974"],"accessionNumberNum":"399","accessionNumberPrefix":"T","accessionYear":1974,"otherNumbers":[],"copyNumber":"","aspects":["WHOLE","Evening jacket","Evening dress"],"assets":[],"recordModificationDate":"2026-07-30","recordCreationDate":"2003-02-25","availableToBook":false}}