{"meta":{"version":"2.1","_links":{"self":{"href":"https://api.vam.ac.uk/v2/object/O74837"},"collection_page":{"href":"https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O74837/"}},"images":{"_primary_thumbnail":"https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2006AP3518/full/!100,100/0/default.jpg","_iiif_image":"https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2006AP3518/","_alt_iiif_image":[],"imageResolution":"low","_images_meta":[{"assetRef":"2006AP3518","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2006AP3517","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2006AP3516","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false}]},"see_also":null},"record":{"systemNumber":"O74837","accessionNumber":"T.263-1981","objectType":"Evening dress","titles":[],"summaryDescription":"Throughout the 1950s fashion designers were searching for new silhouettes. They experimented with ballooned skirts. These rounded shapes were difficult to achieve and maintain. A woman who sat down risked deflating her skirt, although this danger was avoided at cocktail parties where guests usually stood. Madame Grès created this cocktail dress by gathering the fine silk taffeta into a dropped waist. She then attached the taffeta at the hemline to a narrow, straight petticoat in matching fabric. The bodice has a long line, short sleeves and is tightly fitted. It provides a contrast to the rounded curves of the skirt. The top is supported and lined with silk organza. The organza extends into an inner roll underneath the gathers to give shape and support. Two tailored bows mark the corners of the low, square neckline. The dress fastens with a zip.","physicalDescription":"Evening cocktail dress of silk taffeta gathered into a dropped waist. Attached with taffeta at the hemline to a narrow, straight petticoat in matching fabric. The bodice has a long line, short sleeves and is tightly fitted. It provides a contrast to the rounded curves of the skirt. The top is supported and lined with silk organza. The organza extends into an inner roll underneath the gathers to give shape and support. Two tailored bows mark the corners of the low, square neckline. The dress fastens with a zip.","artistMakerPerson":[{"name":{"text":"Grès, Madame","id":"A2179"},"association":{"text":"designer","id":"x36960"},"note":""}],"artistMakerOrganisations":[],"artistMakerPeople":[],"materials":[],"techniques":[],"materialsAndTechniques":"Silk taffeta lined with silk organza, and boned","categories":[{"text":"Fashion","id":"THES48957"},{"text":"Womenswear","id":"THES49044"}],"styles":[],"collectionCode":{"text":"T&F","id":"THES48601"},"images":["2006AP3518","2006AP3517","2006AP3516"],"imageResolution":"low","galleryLocations":[{"current":{"text":"010","id":"THES307692"},"free":"","case":"","shelf":"","box":""}],"partTypes":[[{"text":"Evening dress","id":""}]],"contentWarnings":[{"apprise":"","note":""}],"placesOfOrigin":[{"place":{"text":"Paris","id":"x29068"},"association":{"text":"made","id":"x28654"},"note":""}],"productionDates":[{"date":{"text":"ca. 1950","earliest":"1945-01-01","latest":"1954-12-31"},"association":{"text":"made","id":"x28654"},"note":""}],"associatedObjects":[],"creditLine":"","dimensions":[{"dimension":"Circumference","value":"94","unit":"cm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"bust","note":""},{"dimension":"Circumference","value":"71","unit":"cm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"waist","note":""},{"dimension":"Circumference","value":"160","unit":"cm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"hem","note":""},{"dimension":"Weight","value":".60","unit":"kg","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"","note":""}],"dimensionsNote":"","marksAndInscriptions":[],"objectHistory":"","historicalContext":"","briefDescription":"Evening cocktail dress of silk taffeta lined with silk organza, Madame Grès, Paris, ca. 1950","bibliographicReferences":[{"reference":{"text":"","id":""},"details":"","free":"Mendes, Valerie. <u>Black In Fashion</u>. London: V&A Publications, 1999."}],"production":"","productionType":{"text":"Haute couture","id":"THES48861"},"contentDescription":"","contentPlaces":[],"associatedPlaces":[],"contentPerson":[],"associatedPerson":[],"contentOrganisations":[],"associatedOrganisations":[],"contentPeople":[],"associatedPeople":[],"contentEvents":[],"associatedEvents":[],"contentOthers":[],"contentConcepts":[],"contentLiteraryRefs":[],"galleryLabels":[{"text":"[Case panel]\r\n\r\nCocktail and Early Evening\r\n\r\nDaywear was followed by formal afternoon dresses (robes après-midi habillées), cocktail dresses (robes de cocktail), semi-evening (robes demi-soir) and short evening dresses (robes du soir courtes). These distinctions became simpler as the decade progressed and social codes began to break down.\r\n\r\nCocktail dresses first appeared in the 1920s and gained a new popularity after the war. They were worn at early evening or '6 to 8' gatherings, where guests usually stood and mingled. The gowns could include complex bustles and skirt details, which would be crushed if sat on. \r\n\r\nIn his book the Little Dictionary of Fashion (1954) Christian Dior described cocktail dresses as 'elaborate and dressy afternoon frocks', preferably in black taffeta, satin, chiffon and wool. These confections became the personification of the 'little black dress' and were often accessorised with gloves and small hats. \r\n\r\n[object label]\r\nCocktail dress (robe de cocktail)\r\nMme Grès (1903–93)\r\nParis\r\nAbout 1950\r\n\r\nGrès created this youthful, balloon skirted dress by attaching the skirt’s hemline to a shorter, narrow petticoat in matching fabric.\r\n\r\nSilk taffeta lined with silk organza\r\n\r\nV&A: T.263-1981","date":{"text":"2007-2008","earliest":"2007-01-01","latest":"2008-12-31"}},{"text":"COCKTAIL DRESS, silk taffeta\r\nFrench, Paris, Madame Grés, early 1950s\r\n\r\nMadame Grés is well known for her pleated, gathered and draped dresses. Here she minutely gathers the full skirt of fine silk into a dropped waist and organises a tulip shape by seaming it at the hemline to a narrow cuffed self-petticoat. The long bodice has a wide, square neck and is fitted by curved seams. It is boned and lined with silk organdie which is continued to form a small, shaping roll under the gathers at the waist. The dress fastens at the left back with press studs, hooks and eyes, and a zip. As usual the garment is superbly finished - even the zip head is fitted with a tiny black silk band to aid the wearer. Black is perfect for the dramatic designs of Madame Grés, and she leaves this powerful, almost organic form uncluttered save for two discreet tailored bows at the neckline.\r\n\r\nT.263-1981","date":{"text":"1983-84","earliest":"1983-01-01","latest":"1984-12-31"}}],"partNumbers":["T.263-1981"],"accessionNumberNum":"263","accessionNumberPrefix":"T","accessionYear":1981,"otherNumbers":[],"copyNumber":"","aspects":["WHOLE"],"assets":[],"recordModificationDate":"2026-01-01","recordCreationDate":"2003-02-21","availableToBook":false}}