{"meta":{"version":"2.1","_links":{"self":{"href":"https://api.vam.ac.uk/v2/object/O74833"},"collection_page":{"href":"https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O74833/"}},"images":{"_primary_thumbnail":"https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2006AP3443/full/!100,100/0/default.jpg","_iiif_image":"https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2006AP3443/","_alt_iiif_image":[],"imageResolution":"low","_images_meta":[{"assetRef":"2006AP3443","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2006BD4286","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2006AP3442","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2006AP3441","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2006AP3440","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2006AP3439","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false}]},"see_also":null},"record":{"systemNumber":"O74833","accessionNumber":"T.113-1974","objectType":"Evening dress","titles":[],"summaryDescription":"Jean Dessès experimented with puffed out or bouffant shapes. The velvet used for this dress had the stiffness needed to keep its bouffant shape. The gown is intricately cut. It has a tightly fitted bodice with a low, stand-away neckline that encloses a bow-trimmed brassiere in plain silk velvet. The long skirt has a fishtail train. Its side panels are gathered to form the panniers you can see here, which are supported by net frills. The panniers exaggerate the hips and then curve behind where they cross and slot through each other in an ingenious design. The dress fastens at the centre back with a zip.","physicalDescription":"Full length evening dress of black silk velvet with a woven pattern of small checks. The fitted bodice has a low and wide round neck, slightly wider at the shoulder to cover the top of the arm. It has an inset of black velvet, shaped as a brassiere with a hook fastening at the back and trimmed with two black velvet bows. The bodice has a horizontal panel with a centre front 'V'. The skirt is gathered at the waist and arranged to drape as bouffant panniers and caught at the back like a knot. The skirt from knee to hem is straight, though slightly fuller at the back. Centre back zip fastening. With net frill support.","artistMakerPerson":[{"name":{"text":"Jean Dessès","id":"A2118"},"association":{"text":"designer","id":"AAT25190"},"note":""}],"artistMakerOrganisations":[{"name":{"text":"Bianchini-Férier","id":"A6180"},"association":{"text":"designer","id":"x34662"},"note":"textile"}],"artistMakerPeople":[],"materials":[],"techniques":[],"materialsAndTechniques":"Silk velvet and net","categories":[{"text":"Evening wear","id":"THES48999"},{"text":"Fashion","id":"THES48957"},{"text":"Womenswear","id":"THES49044"}],"styles":[],"collectionCode":{"text":"T&F","id":"THES48601"},"images":["2006AP3443","2006BD4286","2006AP3442","2006AP3441","2006AP3440","2006AP3439"],"imageResolution":"low","galleryLocations":[{"current":{"text":"U","id":"THES297002"},"free":"","case":"","shelf":"","box":""}],"partTypes":[[{"text":"Evening dress","id":""}]],"contentWarnings":[{"apprise":"","note":""}],"placesOfOrigin":[{"place":{"text":"Paris","id":"x29068"},"association":{"text":"made","id":"x28654"},"note":""}],"productionDates":[{"date":{"text":"1948","earliest":"1948-01-01","latest":"1948-12-31"},"association":{"text":"made","id":"x28654"},"note":""}],"associatedObjects":[],"creditLine":"Given by the Hon. Mrs J.J. Astor","dimensions":[{"dimension":"Circumference","value":"67","unit":"cm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"waist","note":""},{"dimension":"Circumference","value":"82","unit":"cm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"bust","note":""},{"dimension":"Circumference","value":"200","unit":"cm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"bottom hem","note":""}],"dimensionsNote":"Stockman European Female size 40","marksAndInscriptions":[],"objectHistory":"","historicalContext":"","briefDescription":"Full length evening dress of silk velvet, designed by Jean Dessès, textile designed by Bianchini-Férier, Paris, 1948","bibliographicReferences":[{"reference":{"text":"","id":""},"details":"","free":"Vogue (France), October 1948, p.43."},{"reference":{"text":"","id":""},"details":"","free":"Miller, L.E., 'Perfect Harmony', in Wilcox, C., ed., <i>The Golden Age of Couture: Paris and London 1947-57</i> (V&A Publications, London: 2007), p.122 and pl.5.6&7"},{"reference":{"text":"","id":""},"details":"","free":"Mendes, Valerie. <u>Black In Fashion</u>. London: V&A Publications, 1999. p. 55."},{"reference":{"text":"<i>Fashion : An Anthology by Cecil Beaton</i>. London : H.M.S.O., 1971","id":"AUTH354373"},"details":"","free":""}],"production":"","productionType":{"text":"Haute couture","id":"THES48861"},"contentDescription":"","contentPlaces":[],"associatedPlaces":[],"contentPerson":[],"associatedPerson":[{"text":"Beaton, Cecil","id":"N2787"}],"contentOrganisations":[],"associatedOrganisations":[],"contentPeople":[],"associatedPeople":[],"contentEvents":[],"associatedEvents":[],"contentOthers":[],"contentConcepts":[],"contentLiteraryRefs":[],"galleryLabels":[{"text":"Evening gown \r\nJean Dessès (1904-70)\r\nParis\r\n1948 autumn/winter\r\n\r\nThis gown featured in French Vogue in October 1948. The magazine promoted both couturier and fabric supplier by name. Bianchini Férier had provided Parisian couturiers with impressive silks since the late 19th century. The weight and textural qualities of this velvet lend themselves well to the construction and shape of Dessès' draped, bouffant style. \r\n\r\nVoided silk velvet by Bianchini Férier\r\n\r\nGiven by the Hon. Mrs J.J. Astor\r\nV&A: T.113-1974","date":{"text":"22/09/2007","earliest":"2007-09-22","latest":"2007-09-22"}},{"text":"EVENING DRESS, voided silk velvet (chequerboard pattern) and velvet\r\nFrench, Paris, Jean Dessés, about 1948\r\n\r\nIn the late 1940s and early 1950s, freed from the oppression of war, Paris based designers expeirmented with a variety of exotic shapes, some based on historical dress. Fabric was stiffened, padded, weighted and under-pinned to achieve impressive but often impractical shapes. Here Jean Dessés explores the possibilities of panniers set against a sheath dress. Black gives the form immediate drama. Intricately cut, the dress has a tightly fitted bodice with a stand-away neckline revealing a velvet modesty trimmed with bows. The bodice front has a V-shaped yoke which attaches to the skirt and gathered to the same seam are side panniers shaped by stiff net frills. The pannier panels curve behind where they cross and slot into the lower back of the skirt. The skirt is straight and tight at the front and has a fishtail at the back.\r\n\r\nWorn and given by the Hon, Mrs J J Astor\r\nThe Cecil Beaton Collection\r\nT.113-1974","date":{"text":"1983-84","earliest":"1983-01-01","latest":"1984-12-31"}}],"partNumbers":["T.113-1974"],"accessionNumberNum":"113","accessionNumberPrefix":"T","accessionYear":1974,"otherNumbers":[],"copyNumber":"","aspects":["WHOLE"],"assets":[],"recordModificationDate":"2026-04-01","recordCreationDate":"2003-02-21","availableToBook":false}}