{"meta":{"version":"2.1","_links":{"self":{"href":"https://api.vam.ac.uk/v2/object/O74805"},"collection_page":{"href":"https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O74805/"}},"images":{"_primary_thumbnail":"https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2006AK7749/full/!100,100/0/default.jpg","_iiif_image":"https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2006AK7749/","_alt_iiif_image":[],"imageResolution":"high","_images_meta":[{"assetRef":"2006AK7749","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2006AN1467","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2019LM7156","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false}]},"see_also":{"_iiif_pres":"https://iiif.vam.ac.uk/collections/O74805/manifest.json","_alt_iiif_pres":[]}},"record":{"systemNumber":"O74805","accessionNumber":"T.194-1959","objectType":"Robe","titles":[],"summaryDescription":"Nō is the classical theatre of Japan which was codified in the 14th century by the father and son actors Kan'ami and Zeami under the patronage of the Shogun (supreme military leader) Ashikaga Yoshimitsu. Under Yoshimitsu the Zen principles of restraint, understatement, economy of movement and frugality of expression became incorporated into the performance. By the early seventeenth century Nō had become an even more austere and formalised drama reserved almost exclusively for the Tokugawa family, the ruling military elite.  This type of robe is called <i>karaori</i> means 'Chinese Weave', although the term came to describe the style of robe itself as much as the technique. The karaori is the basic outer robe worn by a Nō actor in female roles and the predominant red colour of the robe indicates the character of a young woman. The robe is decorated with roundels of chrysanthemums, peonies and irises in coloured silks over a gold lattice pattern.  The three layers of the design are simultaneously woven: the ground, the background gold geometric pattern and the top pattern of glossy silk that looks almost like embroidery.","physicalDescription":"Robe for the Nō theatre of figured compound weave silk with metal threads and brocading in silk. \n2/1 warp-faced twill ground and two pattern wefts (white silk and gold paper strip, the latter is bound in a 2/1 weft-faced twill by a proportion of threads taken from the ground warp). The flowers and leaves which are arranged in clusters against a fret-work ground, are brocaded in coloured silks which are unbound both on the face and the back of the textile. The robe is lined with pinky silk. The sleeves are wide and loose, and the body of the robe from chest level widens down to the hem from a series of gores on either side of the centre front.","artistMakerPerson":[{"name":{"text":"Unknown","id":"A1848"},"association":{"text":"","id":""},"note":""}],"artistMakerOrganisations":[],"artistMakerPeople":[],"materials":[{"text":"silk (textile)","id":"AAT243428"}],"techniques":[{"text":"Twill","id":"x37297"},{"text":"Brocade","id":"AAT53648"}],"materialsAndTechniques":"Polychrome figured silk, twill ground and supplementary wefts of silk and gilt paper (<i>kinran</i>) ","categories":[{"text":"Textiles","id":"THES48885"},{"text":"Clothing","id":"THES48975"},{"text":"Theatre costume","id":"THES268477"}],"styles":[],"collectionCode":{"text":"EAS","id":"THES48596"},"images":["2006AK7749","2006AN1467","2019LM7156"],"imageResolution":"high","galleryLocations":[{"current":{"text":"006","id":"THES404739"},"free":"","case":"","shelf":"","box":""}],"partTypes":[[{"text":"Robe","id":""}]],"contentWarnings":[{"apprise":"","note":""}],"placesOfOrigin":[{"place":{"text":"Kyoto","id":"x31966"},"association":{"text":"made","id":"x28654"},"note":""}],"productionDates":[{"date":{"text":"1780-1820","earliest":"1780-01-01","latest":"1820-12-31"},"association":{"text":"made","id":"x28654"},"note":""}],"associatedObjects":[],"creditLine":"","dimensions":[{"dimension":"Length","value":"6","unit":"in","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"centre-back, excluding collar","note":""},{"dimension":"Width","value":"24.5","unit":"in","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"across one shoulder to a sleeve","note":""}],"dimensionsNote":"","marksAndInscriptions":[],"objectHistory":"","historicalContext":"","briefDescription":"Robe (<i>karaori</i>) for the Nō theatre, figured silk, with decoration of flower roundels on a fret-work ground, Japan, 1780-1820 ","bibliographicReferences":[{"reference":{"text":"Miller, Lesley Ellis, and Ana Cabrera Lafuente, with Claire Allen-Johnstone, eds. <u>Silk: Fibre, Fabric and Fashion</u>. London: Thames & Hudson Ltd in association with the Victoria and Albert Museum, 2021. ISBN 978-0-500-48065-6.","id":"AUTH389403"},"details":"This object features in the publication Silk: Fibre, Fabric and Fashion (2021)","free":""}],"production":"","productionType":{"text":"","id":""},"contentDescription":"","contentPlaces":[],"associatedPlaces":[],"contentPerson":[],"associatedPerson":[],"contentOrganisations":[],"associatedOrganisations":[],"contentPeople":[],"associatedPeople":[],"contentEvents":[],"associatedEvents":[],"contentOthers":[],"contentConcepts":[],"contentLiteraryRefs":[],"galleryLabels":[],"partNumbers":["T.194-1959"],"accessionNumberNum":"194","accessionNumberPrefix":"T","accessionYear":1959,"otherNumbers":[],"copyNumber":"","aspects":["WHOLE"],"assets":[],"recordModificationDate":"2026-03-24","recordCreationDate":"2003-02-20","availableToBook":false}}