{"meta":{"version":"2.1","_links":{"self":{"href":"https://api.vam.ac.uk/v2/object/O74046"},"collection_page":{"href":"https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O74046/"}},"images":{"_primary_thumbnail":"https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2006AP3473/full/!100,100/0/default.jpg","_iiif_image":"https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2006AP3473/","_alt_iiif_image":[],"imageResolution":"low","_images_meta":[{"assetRef":"2006AP3473","copyright":"©Victoria and Albert Museum, London/Paul Poiret","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2006AP3472","copyright":"©Victoria and Albert Museum, London/Paul Poiret","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2017KD0081","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2017KD0084","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2017KD0091","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2017KD0092","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2017KD0093","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2017KD0094","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2017KD0095","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2017KD0096","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2017KD0098","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2017KD0099","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false}]},"see_also":null},"record":{"systemNumber":"O74046","accessionNumber":"T.338-1974","objectType":"Evening dress","titles":[{"title":"Samovar","type":"assigned by artist"}],"summaryDescription":"This dramatic gold and black evening dress, called 'Samovar', is composed of a figure-hugging, low-waisted bodice attached to a gathered lace skirt. The knitted black  viscose rayon or cuprammonium bodice  features gilt metal thread in meanders, and the viscose rayon machine-made lace skirt is worn over a double petticoat of gold lamé and black tulle.\r\n\r\nThe designer Paul Poiret (1879-1944) was at his peak in the years before the First World War, but he remained a creative force in the 1920s.","physicalDescription":"Evening dress composed of a figure-hugging, low-waisted bodice attached to a gathered lace skirt. The knitted black viscose rayon or cuprammonium bodice features gilt metal thread in meanders, and the viscose rayon machine-made lace skirt is worn over a double petticoat of gold lamé and black tulle.","artistMakerPerson":[{"name":{"text":"Paul Poiret","id":"A2342"},"association":{"text":"designer","id":"AAT25190"},"note":""}],"artistMakerOrganisations":[],"artistMakerPeople":[],"materials":[{"text":"Rayon","id":"AAT14059"},{"text":"tulle","id":"AAT256611"},{"text":"metal thread","id":"x30421"}],"techniques":[],"materialsAndTechniques":"Cuprammonium or viscose rayon, embroidered with gilt strip, machine-made lace over gilt tissue and tulle","categories":[{"text":"Fashion","id":"THES48957"},{"text":"Embroidery","id":"THES48960"},{"text":"Evening wear","id":"THES48999"},{"text":"Womenswear","id":"THES49044"},{"text":"Europeana Fashion Project","id":"THES265804"}],"styles":[],"collectionCode":{"text":"T&F","id":"THES48601"},"images":["2006AP3473","2006AP3472","2017KD0081","2017KD0084","2017KD0091","2017KD0092","2017KD0093","2017KD0094","2017KD0095","2017KD0096","2017KD0098","2017KD0099"],"imageResolution":"low","galleryLocations":[{"current":{"text":"002","id":"THES404991"},"free":"","case":"","shelf":"","box":""}],"partTypes":[[{"text":"Evening dress","id":""}]],"contentWarnings":[{"apprise":"","note":""}],"placesOfOrigin":[{"place":{"text":"Paris","id":"x29068"},"association":{"text":"made","id":"x28654"},"note":""}],"productionDates":[{"date":{"text":"1921-1922","earliest":"1921-01-01","latest":"1922-12-31"},"association":{"text":"made","id":"x28654"},"note":"winter"}],"associatedObjects":[],"creditLine":"Given by Vern Lambert, Cecil Beaton Collection ","dimensions":[{"dimension":"Height","value":"1600","unit":"mm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"","note":""},{"dimension":"Width","value":"700","unit":"mm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"","note":""},{"dimension":"Depth","value":"700","unit":"mm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"","note":""}],"dimensionsNote":"Dims when mounted.","marksAndInscriptions":[],"objectHistory":"RF number is 1970/3752 part F/4.","historicalContext":"","briefDescription":"<i>Samovar</i>, evening dress with a bodice of cuprammonium or viscose rayon yarn knitted with gilt metal thread and a skirt of viscose rayon lace over gold lamé, designed by Paul Poiret, Paris, France, winter 1921-1922.","bibliographicReferences":[{"reference":{"text":"","id":""},"details":"","free":"Mendes, Valerie. <u>Black In Fashion</u>. London: V&A Publications, 1999."},{"reference":{"text":"<i>Fashion : An Anthology by Cecil Beaton</i>. London : H.M.S.O., 1971","id":"AUTH354373"},"details":"no.197","free":""},{"reference":{"text":"","id":""},"details":"","free":"Features in the publication connected to the V&A exhibition 'Fashioned from Nature', open at V&A South Kensington from 2018 to 2019."}],"production":"","productionType":{"text":"Haute couture","id":"THES48861"},"contentDescription":"","contentPlaces":[],"associatedPlaces":[],"contentPerson":[],"associatedPerson":[],"contentOrganisations":[],"associatedOrganisations":[],"contentPeople":[],"associatedPeople":[],"contentEvents":[],"associatedEvents":[],"contentOthers":[],"contentConcepts":[],"contentLiteraryRefs":[],"galleryLabels":[{"text":"EVENING DRESS 'Samovar' machine embroidery in rayon and gilt strip and machine lace\r\nFrench, Paris, Paul Poiret, 1919-20\r\n\r\nPaul Poiret was a superb colourist handling vivid hues with panache, but he was not averse to creating in black fabrics. Early in his career (before he became famous) he made clothes for his mistress and in his autobiography \"My First Fifty Years\" (Gollancz, 1931) he describes how he attired her with \"great elegance and piquancy. I remember a costume of black cloth with a little black pelerine that stopped at the shoulders. She wore it with a little black tricorne hat surmounted by a white cock's head with a red comb. It was a delight.\"\r\n\r\nThe lace pattern was probably based on an earlier design from the school of decorative art he extablished in 1911 and called 'Martine'. The dress has a dropped waist which is pointed at the front. It is sleeveless with a front V neck and a back square neck. The skirt (over a double petticoat of gilt tissue and black net) is gathered into the waist and shaped by short horsehair frills under the gathers. The bodice's meandering abstract pattern is set against the skirt's stylised bold flower heads and both are enlivened by gold highlights.\r\n\r\nGiven by Mr Vern Lambert\r\nThe Cecil Beaton Collection\r\nT.338-1974","date":{"text":"1983-84","earliest":"1983-01-01","latest":"1984-12-31"}}],"partNumbers":["T.338-1974"],"accessionNumberNum":"338","accessionNumberPrefix":"T","accessionYear":1974,"otherNumbers":[],"copyNumber":"","aspects":["WHOLE"],"assets":["2017KB3444"],"recordModificationDate":"2025-04-24","recordCreationDate":"2003-02-07","availableToBook":false}}