{"meta":{"version":"2.1","_links":{"self":{"href":"https://api.vam.ac.uk/v2/object/O73354"},"collection_page":{"href":"https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O73354/"}},"images":{"_primary_thumbnail":"https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2006BD5183/full/!100,100/0/default.jpg","_iiif_image":"https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2006BD5183/","_alt_iiif_image":[],"imageResolution":"high","_images_meta":[{"assetRef":"2006BD5183","copyright":"©Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false}]},"see_also":{"_iiif_pres":"https://iiif.vam.ac.uk/collections/O73354/manifest.json","_alt_iiif_pres":[]}},"record":{"systemNumber":"O73354","accessionNumber":"CIRC.500-1965","objectType":"Dress fabric","titles":[],"summaryDescription":"This hand-woven and block-printed tusser silk was manufactured by Thomas Wardle and Co. in around 1875.  It shows the influences of Persian and Turkish design, reflecting the manufacturer's interest in historical Eastern patterns, and the more general fashion for non-European patterns in the nineteenth century.  The design was also block printed on cotton, and a version was shown at the 1888 Arts and Crafts Exhibition.  \r\n\r\nThomas Wardle was a leading textile manufacturer and dyer working in Leek, Staffordshire.  He took over his father's dyeworks in the early 1870s, and went on to become one of the leading British textile manufacturers of the late 19th century.  \r\n\r\nWardle was recognised as an expert on the Indian silk industry.  He first visited Bengal in 1885, and lectured widely on the importance of the tusser (wild) silk of India.  The textured, brown fibres of tusser silk were notoriously resistant to dye, which Wardle successfully overcame in the early 1870s by first bleaching the silk.  \r\n\r\nWardle was an early member of the Arts and Crafts Movement, and acquired patterns from leading designers such as Morris, Day, Crane, Voysey, and Butterfield.  He produced fabrics for stores including Liberty & Co., Heal & Son and Debenham & Freebody, and between 1883 and 1888 he also traded through his own shop on New Bond Street.","physicalDescription":"Dress fabric of block-printed natural tusser silk with a Persian design in red.","artistMakerPerson":[{"name":{"text":"Thomas Wardle","id":"A8968"},"association":{"text":"manufacturer","id":"x33306"},"note":""}],"artistMakerOrganisations":[],"artistMakerPeople":[],"materials":[{"text":"silk (textile)","id":"AAT243428"}],"techniques":[{"text":"block printed","id":"AAT53289"}],"materialsAndTechniques":"Block-printed silk","categories":[{"text":"Textiles","id":"THES48885"},{"text":"Clothing","id":"THES48975"},{"text":"Europeana Fashion Project","id":"THES265804"}],"styles":[],"collectionCode":{"text":"T&F","id":"THES48601"},"images":["2006BD5183"],"imageResolution":"high","galleryLocations":[{"current":{"text":"002","id":"THES309169"},"free":"","case":"","shelf":"","box":""}],"partTypes":[[{"text":"Dress fabric","id":""}]],"contentWarnings":[{"apprise":"","note":""}],"placesOfOrigin":[{"place":{"text":"Leek","id":"x30876"},"association":{"text":"made","id":"x28654"},"note":""}],"productionDates":[{"date":{"text":"ca. 1878","earliest":"1873-01-01","latest":"1882-12-31"},"association":{"text":"made","id":"x28654"},"note":""}],"associatedObjects":[],"creditLine":"","dimensions":[{"dimension":"Length","value":"91.8","unit":"cm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"","note":""},{"dimension":"Width","value":"110","unit":"cm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"","note":""}],"dimensionsNote":"","marksAndInscriptions":[],"objectHistory":"A variation of this design was shown at the 1888 and 1890 Arts and Crafts Exhibitions.\nHistorical significance: Non-European designs remained in fashion to the end of the nineteenth century and although not a direct element in Arts and Crafts textiles, their influence as precursors is important.","historicalContext":"Although William Morris' historic preferences lay in the arts of medieval England and France, his textiles were strongly influenced by fifteenth, sixteenth and seventeenth century Italian woven fabrics, and, towards the end of his career, by the patterns of Perisa and Turkey.  That he was also interested by the Indian textiles he saw whilst working with Thomas Wardle in Leek in 1875 appears especially in the scale and colouring of a small group of his patterns from that period.  Morris and Wardle were, therefore, continuing a long tradition in using existing patterns as the source of inspiration, but they were more selective and original in their approach.","briefDescription":"Dress fabric of block-printed tusser silk, made by Thomas Wardle, Leek, ca. 1878","bibliographicReferences":[{"reference":{"text":"","id":""},"details":"","free":"Parry, Linda.  Textiles of the Arts and Crafts Movement.  London: Thames and Hudson, 1988.  32 plate 21.  ISBN 0-500-27497-5\r\nKing, Donald, ed.  British Textile Design in the Victoria & Albert Museum.  Tokyo: Gakken, 1980.  Vol III plate 95"}],"production":"AP 51 (1) - 1879","productionType":{"text":"","id":""},"contentDescription":"","contentPlaces":[],"associatedPlaces":[],"contentPerson":[],"associatedPerson":[{"text":"William Morris","id":"A8676"}],"contentOrganisations":[],"associatedOrganisations":[],"contentPeople":[],"associatedPeople":[],"contentEvents":[],"associatedEvents":[],"contentOthers":[],"contentConcepts":[],"contentLiteraryRefs":[],"galleryLabels":[],"partNumbers":["CIRC.500-1965"],"accessionNumberNum":"500","accessionNumberPrefix":"CIRC","accessionYear":1965,"otherNumbers":[],"copyNumber":"","aspects":["WHOLE"],"assets":[],"recordModificationDate":"2025-04-24","recordCreationDate":"2003-01-22","availableToBook":true}}