{"meta":{"version":"2.1","_links":{"self":{"href":"https://api.vam.ac.uk/v2/object/O71872"},"collection_page":{"href":"https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O71872/"}},"images":{"_primary_thumbnail":"https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2006BG5475/full/!100,100/0/default.jpg","_iiif_image":"https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2006BG5475/","_alt_iiif_image":[],"imageResolution":"high","_images_meta":[{"assetRef":"2006BG5475","copyright":"©Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2009BY8432","copyright":"©Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2006BG5474","copyright":"©Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2006BF9416","copyright":"©Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2006BF1169","copyright":"©Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false}]},"see_also":{"_iiif_pres":"https://iiif.vam.ac.uk/collections/O71872/manifest.json","_alt_iiif_pres":[]}},"record":{"systemNumber":"O71872","accessionNumber":"T.324&A-1985","objectType":"Mantua","titles":[],"summaryDescription":"The draped skirts of this magnificent 1730s mantua cleverly conceal its complex construction. One of the mantua’s characteristics was a long train, which was sewn as a flat piece of silk and arranged with each wearing. The train was folded up, then folded in and draped over a loop of thread on either side of the waist. In order that the finished side of the silk always show when the mantua was worn, the train was constructed with panels of the right and wrong sides of the fabric sewn together. Pinning up and draping a train successfully was an art and required the help of maids to achieve the perfect effect. \r\n\r\nThe mantua was worn over a matching petticoat and the resulting ensemble constituted formal daywear in the 1730s. Also typical for this period is the silk, intricately brocaded in a flowing pattern of large, realistically rendered flowers and leaves.","physicalDescription":"Mantua and petticoat of white ground brocaded silk with a 24 inch repeating pattern of trees on an island, and embellished with large pink and darker pink fantastic flowers with a Chinoiserie flush pattern of a group of buildings behind the trees. Hand sewn with 2 ply 'S' spun silk and 2 ply 'S' spun threads.","artistMakerPerson":[{"name":{"text":"Unknown","id":"A1848"},"association":{"text":"","id":""},"note":""}],"artistMakerOrganisations":[],"artistMakerPeople":[],"materials":[{"text":"silk (textile)","id":"AAT243428"},{"text":"silk thread","id":"x30127"},{"text":"linen thread","id":"x35336"},{"text":"brown paper","id":"x32663"},{"text":"linen (material)","id":"AAT14069"},{"text":"brass","id":"AAT10946"},{"text":"canvas","id":"AAT14078"}],"techniques":[{"text":"brocaded","id":"AAT53648"},{"text":"hand sewing","id":"AAT257459"},{"text":"pleated","id":"AAT228556"},{"text":"lining","id":"AAT162124"}],"materialsAndTechniques":"Brocaded silk, hand-sewn with spun silk and spun threads, lined with linen, brown paper lining for cuffs, brass, canvas and pleated silk","categories":[{"text":"Textiles","id":"THES48885"},{"text":"Fashion","id":"THES48957"},{"text":"Day wear","id":"THES49000"},{"text":"Womenswear","id":"THES49044"},{"text":"Europeana Fashion Project","id":"THES265804"}],"styles":[],"collectionCode":{"text":"T&F","id":"THES48601"},"images":["2006BG5475","2009BY8432","2006BG5474","2006BF9416","2006BF1169"],"imageResolution":"high","galleryLocations":[{"current":{"text":"001","id":"THES404194"},"free":"","case":"","shelf":"","box":""},{"current":{"text":"001","id":"THES404194"},"free":"","case":"","shelf":"","box":""}],"partTypes":[[{"text":"Mantua","id":""}],[{"text":"Petticoat","id":""}]],"contentWarnings":[{"apprise":"","note":""},{"apprise":"","note":""},{"apprise":"","note":""}],"placesOfOrigin":[{"place":{"text":"Spitalfields","id":"x29420"},"association":{"text":"woven","id":"AAT53642"},"note":"probably"},{"place":{"text":"Great Britain","id":"x32019"},"association":{"text":"made","id":"x28654"},"note":""}],"productionDates":[{"date":{"text":"1733-1734","earliest":"1733-01-01","latest":"1734-12-31"},"association":{"text":"woven","id":"AAT53642"},"note":""},{"date":{"text":"1735-1740","earliest":"1735-01-01","latest":"1740-12-31"},"association":{"text":"made","id":"x28654"},"note":""}],"associatedObjects":[],"creditLine":"Given by Gladys Windsor Fry","dimensions":[{"dimension":"Width","value":"390","unit":"mm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"","note":""},{"dimension":"Depth","value":"255","unit":"mm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"","note":""},{"dimension":"Circumference","value":"38.0","unit":"cm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"at neck, approx.","note":""},{"dimension":"Depth","value":"260","unit":"mm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"","note":""}],"dimensionsNote":"","marksAndInscriptions":[],"objectHistory":"Alterations: Moderate alterations and additions were made for fancy dress in the late 19th century, which have been removed or reversed.\n\nHistorical significance: The pattern of the silk is representative of a new three-dimensional approach that developed in the early 1730s.  The very short sleeves of the mantua correspond to the period circa 1736-1739; similar examples appear in portraiture.\r\n\r\nRF number is 1985/1851.","historicalContext":"This is an example of formal day wear for a woman in the 18th century.","briefDescription":"Mantua and petticoat of white brocaded silk, F, 1735-1740, British; probably Spitalfields 1733-1734 ","bibliographicReferences":[{"reference":{"text":"Avril Hart and Susan North, Historical Fashion in Detail: the 17th and 18th centuries, London: V&A Publications, 1998.","id":"AUTH406477"},"details":"p.60","free":""},{"reference":{"text":"","id":""},"details":"","free":"Ginsburg, Madeleine. <u>Economy and Magnificence</u>. V&A Album 6, 1986, pp. 55-68"}],"production":"","productionType":{"text":"Unique","id":"THES48864"},"contentDescription":"","contentPlaces":[],"associatedPlaces":[],"contentPerson":[],"associatedPerson":[],"contentOrganisations":[],"associatedOrganisations":[],"contentPeople":[],"associatedPeople":[],"contentEvents":[],"associatedEvents":[],"contentOthers":[{"text":"trees","id":"AAT132410"},{"text":"flowers","id":"x35571"},{"text":"island","id":"AAT8791"},{"text":"buildings","id":"AAT4792"}],"contentConcepts":[],"contentLiteraryRefs":[],"galleryLabels":[],"partNumbers":["T.324-1985","T.324A-1985"],"accessionNumberNum":"324","accessionNumberPrefix":"T","accessionYear":1985,"otherNumbers":[],"copyNumber":"","aspects":["WHOLE","Mantua","Petticoat"],"assets":["2018KU7978","2018KU7979","2018KU7980","2021NB2356"],"recordModificationDate":"2026-02-04","recordCreationDate":"2002-12-11","availableToBook":false}}