{"meta":{"version":"2.1","_links":{"self":{"href":"https://api.vam.ac.uk/v2/object/O67174"},"collection_page":{"href":"https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O67174/"}},"images":{"_primary_thumbnail":"https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2013FY9914/full/!100,100/0/default.jpg","_iiif_image":"https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2013FY9914/","_alt_iiif_image":[],"imageResolution":"low","_images_meta":[{"assetRef":"2013FY9914","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2006AL0694","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2006AT4799","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false}]},"see_also":null},"record":{"systemNumber":"O67174","accessionNumber":"T.193-1975","objectType":"Dress fabric","titles":[],"summaryDescription":"This dress fabric is made of lightweight wool and silk. It is printed with a bold pattern of overlapping planes of red, beige and cream, outlined in black. It was made for use by Coco Chanel in 1929. The selvage has the words ‘Tricot Chanel’ and its design registration number, 272019, stamped upon it.\r\n\r\nIn the early 1920s Chanel opened her own textile factory in Asnières-sur-Seine to cater for the demand for her signature silk-enriched wool and cotton jersey fabrics. This enabled her to control her own production and guarantee that Chanel fabrics were exclusive to her alone. Until around 1929, the factory was called 'Tricot Chanel'. After Chanel expanded into producing exclusive printed silks and other woven fabrics, the factory was renamed 'Tissus Chanel'. \r\n\r\nChanel used printed fabrics for coat linings worn with matching dresses, which became one of her design trademarks.This is a woven fabric stamped 'Tricot Chanel', so is probably one of Chanel's first fabric prints before the factory's official name change.","physicalDescription":"Plain weave, lightweight fabric of wool and silk, printed with an abstract pattern of irregular meandering vertical bands in bright orange, grey green, beige and pale yellow outlined in black.","artistMakerPerson":[],"artistMakerOrganisations":[{"name":{"text":"Tricots Chanel","id":"A22165"},"association":{"text":"manufacturer","id":"x33306"},"note":""}],"artistMakerPeople":[],"materials":[{"text":"Wool","id":"AAT243430"},{"text":"silk (textile)","id":"AAT243428"}],"techniques":[{"text":"Printed","id":"AAT53319"}],"materialsAndTechniques":"Printed wool and silk","categories":[{"text":"Textiles","id":"THES48885"},{"text":"Fashion","id":"THES48957"},{"text":"Clothing","id":"THES48975"}],"styles":[{"text":"art deco","id":"AAT21426"}],"collectionCode":{"text":"T&F","id":"THES48601"},"images":["2013FY9914","2006AL0694","2006AT4799"],"imageResolution":"low","galleryLocations":[{"current":{"text":"P021","id":"THES344893"},"free":"","case":"","shelf":"","box":""}],"partTypes":[[{"text":"Dress fabric","id":""}]],"contentWarnings":[{"apprise":"","note":""}],"placesOfOrigin":[{"place":{"text":"Asnières-sur-Seine","id":"x41213"},"association":{"text":"made","id":"x28654"},"note":""}],"productionDates":[{"date":{"text":"ca. 1928","earliest":"1923-01-01","latest":"1932-12-31"},"association":{"text":"made","id":"x28654"},"note":""}],"associatedObjects":[{"object":{"text":"T.194-1975","id":"O143261"},"association":"Colourway"},{"object":{"text":"T.195-1975","id":"O143259"},"association":"Colourway"}],"creditLine":"Given by the Manchester Design Registry","dimensions":[{"dimension":"Length","value":"48","unit":"cm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"","note":""},{"dimension":"Width","value":"26.5","unit":"cm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"","note":""}],"dimensionsNote":"","marksAndInscriptions":[{"content":"'Tricots Chanel'","inscriber":{"name":{"text":"","id":""},"association":{"text":"","id":""}},"date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"description":"","interpretation":"","language":"French","medium":"","method":"Stamping","position":"Selvedge","script":"","translation":"","transliteration":"","type":"1) Makers's mark","note":"1) Makers's mark; French; Selvedge; Stamping"}],"objectHistory":"","historicalContext":"","briefDescription":"Dress fabric of printed wool and silk, manufactured by Tricots Chanel, Asnières-sur-Seine, France, ca. 1928.","bibliographicReferences":[{"reference":{"text":"","id":""},"details":"","free":"Charlotte Samuels, 'Art Deco Textiles' (V&A: V&A Publications, 2003), pl.59"}],"production":"Made for use by Coco Chanel.","productionType":{"text":"","id":""},"contentDescription":"","contentPlaces":[],"associatedPlaces":[],"contentPerson":[],"associatedPerson":[],"contentOrganisations":[],"associatedOrganisations":[],"contentPeople":[],"associatedPeople":[],"contentEvents":[],"associatedEvents":[],"contentOthers":[],"contentConcepts":[],"contentLiteraryRefs":[],"galleryLabels":[],"partNumbers":["T.193-1975"],"accessionNumberNum":"193","accessionNumberPrefix":"T","accessionYear":1975,"otherNumbers":[{"type":{"text":"Manufacturer's number","id":"THES57537"},"number":"272019"}],"copyNumber":"","aspects":["WHOLE"],"assets":[],"recordModificationDate":"2025-10-24","recordCreationDate":"2002-08-23","availableToBook":false}}