{"meta":{"version":"2.1","_links":{"self":{"href":"https://api.vam.ac.uk/v2/object/O67173"},"collection_page":{"href":"https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O67173/"}},"images":{"_primary_thumbnail":"https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2024NX8326/full/!100,100/0/default.jpg","_iiif_image":"https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2024NX8326/","_alt_iiif_image":[],"imageResolution":"low","_images_meta":[{"assetRef":"2024NX8326","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2006AL0695","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2006AT4788","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2019MF1445","copyright":"©Victoria & Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2019MF1446","copyright":"©Victoria & Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false}]},"see_also":null},"record":{"systemNumber":"O67173","accessionNumber":"T.191-1975","objectType":"Dress fabric","titles":[],"summaryDescription":"This dress fabric is made of lightweight wool and silk. It is printed with a bold pattern of overlapping planes of blue, cream, deep pink and grey, outlined in black. It was made for use by Gabrielle 'Coco' Chanel in 1929. The selvage has the words ‘Tricot Chanel’ and its design registration number, 272016, stamped upon it.\r\n\r\nIn the 1920s Chanel began producing jersey textiles under the name of Les Tricots Chanel in partnership with a textile factory in Asnières-sur-Seine. This enabled her to control her own production and guarantee exclusive designs for her couture collections. She employed the multidisciplinary artist Ilia Zdanevich, known as Iliazd, as a textile designer. In 1928 Chanel took over the factory at Asnières and established a new company, Tissus Chanel. \r\n\r\nChanel used printed fabrics for coat linings worn with matching dresses, which became one of her design trademarks.","physicalDescription":"Lightweight dress fabric of wool and silk, printed with a bold pattern of overlapping planes of magenta, blue, beige and white outlined in black.  \r\n\r\nPlain weave, with one edge of selvedge, looks to have a silk warp and a wool weft.","artistMakerPerson":[],"artistMakerOrganisations":[{"name":{"text":"Tricots Chanel","id":"A22165"},"association":{"text":"manufacturer","id":"x33306"},"note":""}],"artistMakerPeople":[],"materials":[{"text":"Wool","id":"AAT243430"},{"text":"silk (textile)","id":"AAT243428"}],"techniques":[{"text":"Printed","id":"AAT53319"},{"text":"weaving","id":"AAT53642"},{"text":"plain weave","id":"x37295"}],"materialsAndTechniques":"Printed wool and silk","categories":[{"text":"Fashion","id":"THES48957"},{"text":"Clothing","id":"THES48975"},{"text":"Textiles","id":"THES48885"}],"styles":[{"text":"Art Deco","id":"AAT21426"}],"collectionCode":{"text":"T&F","id":"THES48601"},"images":["2024NX8326","2006AL0695","2006AT4788","2019MF1445","2019MF1446"],"imageResolution":"low","galleryLocations":[{"current":{"text":"SR002","id":"THES340945"},"free":"","case":"","shelf":"","box":""}],"partTypes":[[{"text":"Dress fabric","id":""}]],"contentWarnings":[{"apprise":"No","note":""}],"placesOfOrigin":[{"place":{"text":"Asnières-sur-Seine","id":"x41213"},"association":{"text":"made","id":"x28654"},"note":""}],"productionDates":[{"date":{"text":"1928-1929","earliest":"1928-01-01","latest":"1929-12-31"},"association":{"text":"made","id":"x28654"},"note":""}],"associatedObjects":[{"object":{"text":"T.192-1975","id":"O143262"},"association":"Colourway"}],"creditLine":"Given by Manchester Design Registry","dimensions":[{"dimension":"Length","value":"56.5","unit":"cm","qualifier":"Maximum","date":{"text":"12/06/2024","earliest":"2024-06-12","latest":"2024-06-12"},"part":"Board","note":""},{"dimension":"Width","value":"52","unit":"cm","qualifier":"Maximum","date":{"text":"12/06/2024","earliest":"2024-06-12","latest":"2024-06-12"},"part":"Board","note":""},{"dimension":"Length","value":"54.5","unit":"cm","qualifier":"Maximum","date":{"text":"12/06/2024","earliest":"2024-06-12","latest":"2024-06-12"},"part":"Textile","note":""},{"dimension":"Width","value":"49","unit":"cm","qualifier":"Maximum","date":{"text":"12/06/2024","earliest":"2024-06-12","latest":"2024-06-12"},"part":"Textile","note":""}],"dimensionsNote":"Measured by conservation","marksAndInscriptions":[],"objectHistory":"Registration number 272016","historicalContext":"","briefDescription":"Dress fabric of printed wool and silk, manufactured by Tricots Chanel, Asnières-sur-Seine, France, 1928 -29.","bibliographicReferences":[{"reference":{"text":"","id":""},"details":"","free":"Samuels, Charlotte.  <font -u>Art Deco Textiles.</font>  London : V&A Publications, 2003.  Plate 59."}],"production":"","productionType":{"text":"","id":""},"contentDescription":"","contentPlaces":[],"associatedPlaces":[],"contentPerson":[],"associatedPerson":[],"contentOrganisations":[],"associatedOrganisations":[],"contentPeople":[],"associatedPeople":[],"contentEvents":[],"associatedEvents":[],"contentOthers":[],"contentConcepts":[],"contentLiteraryRefs":[],"galleryLabels":[{"text":"[<i>Gabrielle Chanel. Fashion Manifesto</i> exhibition, September 2023 - March 2024]\n\nBRITISH CHANEL FABRICS\n\r\nIn the late 1920s, Chanel was spending time in Britain due to her relationship with the Duke of Westminster. She opened a salon in Mayfair and was considering possible British business ventures. In February 1929, she registered these textile designs in various colourways. They were the only designs that she ever registered in Britain.\n\r\nTricots Chanel textile samples\r\n1929\r\nPrinted silk and wool crepe\r\nV&A: T.191, 192, 194-1975\r\nGiven by the Manchester Design Registry","date":{"text":"16/09/2023","earliest":"2023-09-16","latest":"2023-09-16"}},{"text":"Controlling larger-scale production\n\nIn the early 1920s, fashion designer Gabrielle ‘Coco’ Chanel opened her own textile factory in Asnières-sur-Seine, France to meet growing demand for her fabrics and to gain control over the production process. The dedicated factory also guaranteed that Chanel fabrics were of consistent quality and exclusive to her alone, even when produced at scale. Using these fabrics for matching dresses and coat linings became one of the brand’s design trademarks.\n\nPatterned dress fabrics \nAbout 1928\nManufactured by Tricots Chanel, France \nPrinted wool and silk \nGiven by the Manchester Design Registry \nMuseum nos. T.191, 195-1975\n\nThe object sits in the 'Automation and Labour' section of the Design 1900-Now gallery opened in June 2021.\r\n","date":{"text":"2021","earliest":"2021-01-01","latest":"2021-12-31"}}],"partNumbers":["T.191-1975"],"accessionNumberNum":"191","accessionNumberPrefix":"T","accessionYear":1975,"otherNumbers":[{"type":{"text":"","id":""},"number":"272016"}],"copyNumber":"","aspects":["WHOLE"],"assets":[],"recordModificationDate":"2026-05-08","recordCreationDate":"2002-08-23","availableToBook":false}}