{"meta":{"version":"2.1","_links":{"self":{"href":"https://api.vam.ac.uk/v2/object/O65255"},"collection_page":{"href":"https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O65255/"}},"images":{"_primary_thumbnail":"https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2006AL2084/full/!100,100/0/default.jpg","_iiif_image":"https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2006AL2084/","_alt_iiif_image":[],"imageResolution":"high","_images_meta":[{"assetRef":"2006AL2084","copyright":"©Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2006AL2086","copyright":"©Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2006AL2085","copyright":"©Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2016JE2863","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2016JE2864","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2016JE2865","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2016JE2866","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2019LK2989","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2019LK3014","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2019LK3015","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2019LK3017","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false}]},"see_also":{"_iiif_pres":"https://iiif.vam.ac.uk/collections/O65255/manifest.json","_alt_iiif_pres":[]}},"record":{"systemNumber":"O65255","accessionNumber":"E.1861:98-1991","objectType":"Design","titles":[],"summaryDescription":"This design is from an album that contains 104 designs for fine woven silk cloth and is dated July 15th 1709. A constant supply of fashionable new designs from which to create new lines was required, so patternmakers and master weavers like James Leman supplied a wide range of designs for different weavers. The album contains some of his work from the period 1706-1716, as well as five designs from the 1730s.\r\n\r\nJames Leman was born in 1688 into a weaving family of Huguenot descent. In 1702 he was apprenticed to his father, Peter, and lived with his family in Stewart Street, Spitalfields in London. Leman's inscription on the design states that it was made for his father Peter Leman, showing that he drew it while still an apprentice.","physicalDescription":"Design for woven silk from the 'Leman Album', in pencil, pen and ink, watercolour and bodycolour on laid paper, depicting architectural features including a fantastical building supported on four short columns above which are two large Corinthian columns above which is a roof structure with large round openings which reveal decorative features. There is a column above the roof structure on the left side. There is an outsize fruit with decorative scales on the left side of the roof and a decorative fence in a Chinoiserie style above the roof structure. There is a fantastical cityscape in the centre of the design behind the central architectural feature. There are floral, foliate and decorative motifs floating amidst the architectural features. The design is in pale yellow ochre, orange, pale pink, red, mauve and dark green.\n\nThe design is squared up in pencil for cords and dezines, with dezines numbered in ink.","artistMakerPerson":[{"name":{"text":"Leman, James","id":"A5979"},"association":{"text":"designer","id":"x36960"},"note":""}],"artistMakerOrganisations":[],"artistMakerPeople":[],"materials":[{"text":"Pencil","id":"x30347"},{"text":"Ink","id":"AAT15012"},{"text":"Watercolour","id":"x33202"},{"text":"Bodycolour","id":"x34671"},{"text":"Laid paper","id":"AAT14184"}],"techniques":[{"text":"Painting","id":"x30598"},{"text":"Drawing","id":"x32498"}],"materialsAndTechniques":"Pencil, pen and ink, watercolour and bodycolour on laid paper","categories":[{"text":"Designs","id":"THES48968"},{"text":"Textiles","id":"THES48885"}],"styles":[],"collectionCode":{"text":"PDP","id":"THES48595"},"images":["2006AL2084","2006AL2086","2006AL2085","2016JE2863","2016JE2864","2016JE2865","2016JE2866","2019LK2989","2019LK3014","2019LK3015","2019LK3017"],"imageResolution":"high","galleryLocations":[{"current":{"text":"LVLC","id":"THES49171"},"free":"","case":"MB2E","shelf":"DR76","box":""}],"partTypes":[[{"text":"designs","id":"AAT102051"}]],"contentWarnings":[{"apprise":"","note":""}],"placesOfOrigin":[{"place":{"text":"Spitalfields","id":"x29420"},"association":{"text":"designed","id":"x29338"},"note":""}],"productionDates":[{"date":{"text":"15/07/1709","earliest":"1709-07-15","latest":"1709-07-15"},"association":{"text":"designed","id":"x29338"},"note":""}],"associatedObjects":[],"creditLine":"Purchased with Art Fund support and the National Heritage Memorial Fund","dimensions":[{"dimension":"Height","value":"56.5","unit":"cm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"","note":""},{"dimension":"Width","value":"26.4","unit":"cm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"","note":""},{"dimension":"Height","value":"22.25","unit":"in","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"","note":""},{"dimension":"Width","value":"10.375","unit":"in","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"","note":""}],"dimensionsNote":"Dimensions taken from Rothstein, Natalie. <u>Silk Designs of the Eighteenth Century in the Collection of the Victoria and Albert Museum, London with a Complete Catalogue with 473 Illustrations, 371 in Colour</u>. London: Thames and Hudson, 1990.","marksAndInscriptions":[{"content":"'London July 15<sup>th</sup> 1709 Damask for Mr Tully 450 Cords No 8 & 10 - 120 Dezines long in Six simples For my Father Peter Leman by me James Leman.'","inscriber":{"name":{"text":"","id":""},"association":{"text":"","id":""}},"date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"description":"","interpretation":"","language":"","medium":"Ink","method":"Handwriting","position":"It is difficult to see the inscription because it is on the back of the design which is pasted down.  It is difficult to see where the line ends and the new one begins.  It was, however, recorded by Natalie Rothstein.","script":"","translation":"","transliteration":"","type":"Signature; date","note":"Handwritten text in ink including the designer's signature and date, on the back of the design. The design is pasted down so the inscription is no longer clearly visible and it is not possible to record the line breaks. However the inscription was recorded by Natalie Rothstein in her book <u>Silk Designs of the Eighteenth Century</u>. "},{"content":"Squared up in pencil for cords and dezines, with dezines numbered in ink.","inscriber":{"name":{"text":"","id":""},"association":{"text":"","id":""}},"date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"description":"","interpretation":"","language":"","medium":"Ink","method":"Handwriting","position":"On the front of the design.","script":"","translation":"","transliteration":"","type":"Makers's and designer's marks","note":"Handwritten makers' and designer's marks in pencil and ink, on the front of the design."}],"objectHistory":"This is a design from the so-called 'Leman album' which was bought from Vanners Silks Ltd. in 1991. Natalie Rothstein catalogued the designs before the album was bought by the Victoria and Albert Museum. She gave each design a VS number (for Vanners Silks) in her catalogue <u>Silk Designs of the Eighteenth Century</u>. The designs have been subsequently numbered by the Prints, Drawings and Paintings Department, however, a concordance exists.\n\nHistorical significance: The designs collected in the album are, with the exception of some fragmentary medieval examples in Italian collections, the earliest silk designs known to exist.","historicalContext":"","briefDescription":"Design for woven silk from the 'Leman Album', pencil, pen and ink, watercolour and bodycolour on laid paper, by James Leman, Spitalfields, 1709","bibliographicReferences":[{"reference":{"text":"Rothstein, Natalie. <u>Silk Designs of the Eighteenth Century in the Collection of the Victoria and Albert Museum, London with a Complete Catalogue with 473 Illustrations, 371 in Colour</u>. London: Thames and Hudson, 1990. 351p., ill. ISBN 0500235899.","id":"AUTH324304"},"details":"p. 101-102, pl. 17","free":"Full text of the entry is as follows:\n\n   'London July 15th 1709 \n    Damask for Mr Tully \n    450 Cords No 8 &amp; 10 - 120 Dezines long in \n    Six simples \n    For my Father Peter Leman \n    by me James Leman.\nSquared up in pencil for cords and dezines, with dezines numbered in ink. There are some unpainted pencilled features. NB This cannot be a plain damask as it is painted in eight colours.\n22 1/4\" (56.5) x 10 3/8\" (26.4) [pl. 17]\nQ.513, HJ.559, CT.18336   VS89'"},{"reference":{"text":"Miller, Lesley Ellis, and Ana Cabrera Lafuente, with Claire Allen-Johnstone, eds. <u>Silk: Fibre, Fabric and Fashion</u>. London: Thames & Hudson Ltd in association with the Victoria and Albert Museum, 2021. ISBN 978-0-500-48065-6.","id":"AUTH389403"},"details":"This object features in the publication Silk: Fibre, Fabric and Fashion (2021)","free":""}],"production":"Attribution note: Natalie Rothstein stated in her book <u> Silk Designs of the Eighteenth Century</u> that 'There are some unpainted pencilled features. NB This cannot be a plain damask as it is painted in eight colours.'","productionType":{"text":"","id":""},"contentDescription":"","contentPlaces":[],"associatedPlaces":[],"contentPerson":[],"associatedPerson":[],"contentOrganisations":[],"associatedOrganisations":[],"contentPeople":[],"associatedPeople":[],"contentEvents":[],"associatedEvents":[],"contentOthers":[],"contentConcepts":[],"contentLiteraryRefs":[],"galleryLabels":[],"partNumbers":["E.1861:98-1991"],"accessionNumberNum":"1861","accessionNumberPrefix":"E","accessionYear":1991,"otherNumbers":[{"type":{"text":"'VS' stands for Vanners Silks which owned the album when Natalie Rothstein catalogued it for her publication <u>Silk Designs of the Eighteenth Century</u>.","id":"THES55481"},"number":"VS.89"}],"copyNumber":"","aspects":["WHOLE"],"assets":[],"recordModificationDate":"2025-05-07","recordCreationDate":"2002-05-08","availableToBook":false}}