{"meta":{"version":"2.1","_links":{"self":{"href":"https://api.vam.ac.uk/v2/object/O65156"},"collection_page":{"href":"https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O65156/"}},"images":{"_primary_thumbnail":"https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2006AL2131/full/!100,100/0/default.jpg","_iiif_image":"https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2006AL2131/","_alt_iiif_image":[],"imageResolution":"high","_images_meta":[{"assetRef":"2006AL2131","copyright":"©Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2006AL2132","copyright":"©Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2006AL2130","copyright":"©Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2006AL1248","copyright":"©Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2019LK2999","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2019LK3002","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2019LK3021","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false}]},"see_also":{"_iiif_pres":"https://iiif.vam.ac.uk/collections/O65156/manifest.json","_alt_iiif_pres":[]}},"record":{"systemNumber":"O65156","accessionNumber":"E.1861:66-1991","objectType":"Design","titles":[],"summaryDescription":"This design is from an album that contains 104 designs for fine woven silk cloth and is dated March 3rd 1708/9. A constant supply of fashionable new designs from which to create new lines was required, so patternmakers and master weavers like James Leman supplied a wide range of designs for different weavers. The album contains some of his work from the period 1706-1716, as well as five designs from the 1730s.\r\n\r\nJames Leman was born in 1688 into a weaving family of Huguenot descent. In 1702 he was apprenticed to his father, Peter, and lived with his family in Stewart Street, Spitalfields in London. \n\nLeman's inscription on the design reveals that it was commissioned by Mr Carr, one of the most important mercers of his day who supplied goods to the Crown on a large scale. Between 1707 and 1711 Mr Carr bought 7 of Leman's earlier designs.","physicalDescription":"Design for woven silk from the 'Leman Album', in pencil, pen and ink, watercolour and bodycolour on laid paper, in yellow, yellow ochre, orange, pink, red, blue, green, grey and black. \n\nThe design depicts architectural features including a stylised decorative fence within which are figures presented in a Chinoiserie style. To the left of the fence are four small stylised pineapples surrounded by a decorative pattern. At the top of the design are five candle-like shapes, with the central one alight, beneath a triangular canopy. To the left of this canopy is a domed temple surmounting an Ionic capital. Stylised floral and foliate forms as well as decorative motifs adorn the rest of the design. \n\nThe design is squared up in pencil for cords and dezines, with dezines numbered in ink. The design has been altered by pasting new sections over the previous pattern in several places. ","artistMakerPerson":[{"name":{"text":"Leman, James","id":"A5979"},"association":{"text":"designer","id":"x36960"},"note":""}],"artistMakerOrganisations":[],"artistMakerPeople":[],"materials":[{"text":"Pencil","id":"x30347"},{"text":"Ink","id":"AAT15012"},{"text":"Watercolour","id":"x33202"},{"text":"Bodycolour","id":"x34671"},{"text":"Laid paper","id":"AAT14184"}],"techniques":[{"text":"Painting","id":"x30598"},{"text":"Drawing","id":"x32498"}],"materialsAndTechniques":"Pencil, pen and ink, watercolour and bodycolour on laid paper","categories":[{"text":"Designs","id":"THES48968"},{"text":"Textiles","id":"THES48885"}],"styles":[],"collectionCode":{"text":"PDP","id":"THES48595"},"images":["2006AL2131","2006AL2132","2006AL2130","2006AL1248","2019LK2999","2019LK3002","2019LK3021"],"imageResolution":"high","galleryLocations":[{"current":{"text":"LVLC","id":"THES49171"},"free":"","case":"MB2E","shelf":"DR76","box":""}],"partTypes":[[{"text":"designs","id":"AAT102051"}]],"contentWarnings":[{"apprise":"","note":""}],"placesOfOrigin":[{"place":{"text":"Spitalfields","id":"x29420"},"association":{"text":"designed","id":"x29338"},"note":""}],"productionDates":[{"date":{"text":"10/03/1708-1709","earliest":"1708-03-10","latest":"1709-12-31"},"association":{"text":"designed","id":"x29338"},"note":""}],"associatedObjects":[],"creditLine":"Purchased with Art Fund support and the National Heritage Memorial Fund","dimensions":[{"dimension":"Height","value":"65.1","unit":"cm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"","note":""},{"dimension":"Width","value":"26.4","unit":"cm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"","note":""},{"dimension":"Height","value":"25.375","unit":"in","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"","note":""},{"dimension":"Width","value":"10.375","unit":"in","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"","note":""}],"dimensionsNote":"Dimensions taken from Rothstein, Natalie. <u>Silk Designs of the Eighteenth Century in the Collection of the Victoria and Albert Museum, London with a Complete Catalogue with 473 Illustrations, 371 in Colour</u>. London: Thames and Hudson, 1990.","marksAndInscriptions":[{"content":"'London Mar: 1<sup>o</sup>: 1708/9 a figure \r\nfor a flow<sup>d</sup>: Sattin & Tabby Brocaded\r\n400 Cords 8 & 12 - 126 Dezines long in\r\n6 Simples for Mr Care & Comp\r\nfor my Father\r\nby me James Leman\nto be made by Mr Matton'","inscriber":{"name":{"text":"","id":""},"association":{"text":"","id":""}},"date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"description":"","interpretation":"","language":"","medium":"Ink","method":"Handwriting","position":"The inscription is difficult to see because the design is pasted down.  Natalie Rothstein, however, recorded it.","script":"","translation":"","transliteration":"","type":"Signature; date","note":"Handwritten text in ink including the designer's signature and date, on the back of the design. The inscription is difficult to see because it is on the back of the design which is pasted down. However, Natalie Rothstein recorded it in her publication <u>Silk Designs of the Eighteenth Century</u>. "},{"content":"Squared up in pencil for cords and dezines, with dezines numbered in ink.","inscriber":{"name":{"text":"","id":""},"association":{"text":"","id":""}},"date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"description":"","interpretation":"","language":"","medium":"Ink","method":"Handwriting","position":"On the front of the design.","script":"","translation":"","transliteration":"","type":"Makers's and designer's marks","note":"Handwritten makers' and designer's marks in pencil and ink, on the front of the design."}],"objectHistory":"This is a design from the so-called 'Leman album' which was bought from Vanners Silks Ltd. in 1991. Natalie Rothstein catalogued the designs before the album was bought by the Victoria and Albert Museum. She gave each design a VS number (for Vanners Silks) in her catalogue <u>Silk Designs of the Eighteenth Century</u>. The designs have been subsequently numbered by the Prints, Drawings and Paintings Department, however, a concordance exists.\n\nMr Care refers to Mr Carr, who was one of the most important mercers of his day.\n\nHistorical significance: The designs collected in the album are, with the exception of some fragmentary medieval examples in Italian collections, the earliest silk designs known to exist.","historicalContext":"","briefDescription":"Design for woven silk from the 'Leman Album', pencil, pen and ink, bodycolour and watercolour on laid paper, by James Leman, Spitalfields, 1708-1709","bibliographicReferences":[{"reference":{"text":"Rothstein, Natalie. <u>Silk Designs of the Eighteenth Century in the Collection of the Victoria and Albert Museum, London with a Complete Catalogue with 473 Illustrations, 371 in Colour</u>. London: Thames and Hudson, 1990. 351p., ill. ISBN 0500235899.","id":"AUTH324304"},"details":"p. 101, pl. 13","free":""}],"production":"The following information is taken from Natalie Rothstein, <u>Silk Designs of the Eighteenth Century</u>. Please see the bibliographic reference under 'References' for more details.\n\n'Design has been altered by pasting new sections over previous pattern in several places'.","productionType":{"text":"","id":""},"contentDescription":"","contentPlaces":[],"associatedPlaces":[],"contentPerson":[],"associatedPerson":[],"contentOrganisations":[],"associatedOrganisations":[],"contentPeople":[],"associatedPeople":[],"contentEvents":[],"associatedEvents":[],"contentOthers":[],"contentConcepts":[],"contentLiteraryRefs":[],"galleryLabels":[],"partNumbers":["E.1861:66-1991"],"accessionNumberNum":"1861","accessionNumberPrefix":"E","accessionYear":1991,"otherNumbers":[{"type":{"text":"'VS' stands for Vanners Silks which owned the album when Natalie Rothstein catalogued it for her publication <u>Silk Designs of the Eighteenth Century</u>.","id":"THES55481"},"number":"VS.57"}],"copyNumber":"","aspects":["WHOLE"],"assets":[],"recordModificationDate":"2025-05-09","recordCreationDate":"2002-05-03","availableToBook":false}}