{"meta":{"version":"2.1","_links":{"self":{"href":"https://api.vam.ac.uk/v2/object/O65145"},"collection_page":{"href":"https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O65145/"}},"images":{"_primary_thumbnail":"https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2006AL2078/full/!100,100/0/default.jpg","_iiif_image":"https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2006AL2078/","_alt_iiif_image":[],"imageResolution":"high","_images_meta":[{"assetRef":"2006AL2078","copyright":"©Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false}]},"see_also":{"_iiif_pres":"https://iiif.vam.ac.uk/collections/O65145/manifest.json","_alt_iiif_pres":[]}},"record":{"systemNumber":"O65145","accessionNumber":"E.1861:106-1991","objectType":"Design","titles":[],"summaryDescription":"This design is from an album that contains 104 designs for fine woven silk cloth and is dated March 9th 1710/11. A constant supply of fashionable new designs from which to create new lines was required, so patternmakers and master weavers like James Leman supplied a wide range of designs for different weavers. The album contains some of his work from the period 1706-1716, as well as five designs from the 1730s.\r\n\r\nJames Leman was born in 1688 into a weaving family of Huguenot descent. In 1702 he was apprenticed to his father, Peter, and lived with his family in Stewart Street, Spitalfields in London. Leman's inscription on the design states that it was made for his father Peter Leman, showing that he drew it while still an apprentice. The inscription also reveals that the design was commissioned by Mr Tullie, a mercer who was an important customer of Leman's, who bought 25 silks between 1708 and 1721, mostly the more expensive kinds.","physicalDescription":"Design for woven silk from the 'Leman Album', in pencil, pen and ink, watercolour and bodycolour on laid paper, in two shades of brown, depicting two large peg shapes, decorated internally. The tops of the pegs are shaped like the caps of toadstools over which is a shape like a pitched roof. There is a pendant leaf hanging from one corner of the roof. The pitched roof of the top peg appears at the bottom of the design indicating the repeat. The top toadstool cap is decorated internally with ovals each containing a flower. The lower one is decorated with chevrons.\n\nThe design is squared up in pencil for cords and dezines and numbered in ink.","artistMakerPerson":[{"name":{"text":"Leman, James","id":"A5979"},"association":{"text":"designer","id":"x36960"},"note":""}],"artistMakerOrganisations":[],"artistMakerPeople":[],"materials":[{"text":"Pencil","id":"x30347"},{"text":"Ink","id":"AAT15012"},{"text":"Watercolour","id":"x33202"},{"text":"Bodycolour","id":"x34671"},{"text":"Laid paper","id":"AAT14184"}],"techniques":[{"text":"Painting","id":"x30598"},{"text":"Drawing","id":"x32498"}],"materialsAndTechniques":"Pencil, pen and ink, watercolour and bodycolour on laid paper","categories":[{"text":"Designs","id":"THES48968"},{"text":"Textiles","id":"THES48885"}],"styles":[],"collectionCode":{"text":"PDP","id":"THES48595"},"images":["2006AL2078"],"imageResolution":"high","galleryLocations":[{"current":{"text":"LVLC","id":"THES49171"},"free":"","case":"MB2E","shelf":"DR76","box":""}],"partTypes":[[{"text":"designs","id":"AAT102051"}]],"contentWarnings":[{"apprise":"","note":""}],"placesOfOrigin":[{"place":{"text":"Spitalfields","id":"x29420"},"association":{"text":"designed","id":"x29338"},"note":""}],"productionDates":[{"date":{"text":"09/03/1710-1711","earliest":"1710-03-09","latest":"1711-12-31"},"association":{"text":"designed","id":"x29338"},"note":""}],"associatedObjects":[],"creditLine":"Purchased with Art Fund support and the National Heritage Memorial Fund","dimensions":[{"dimension":"Height","value":"60.4","unit":"cm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"","note":""},{"dimension":"Width","value":"26.4","unit":"cm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"","note":""},{"dimension":"Height","value":"23.75","unit":"in","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"","note":""},{"dimension":"Width","value":"10.375","unit":"in","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"","note":""}],"dimensionsNote":"Dimensions taken from Rothstein, Natalie. <u>Silk Designs of the Eighteenth Century in the Collection of the Victoria and Albert Museum, London with a Complete Catalogue with 473 Illustrations, 371 in Colour</u>. London: Thames and Hudson, 1990.","marksAndInscriptions":[{"content":"'London March 9<sup>th</sup> ... 1710/11 / This pattern for a Damask brocade / with gold or silver for Mr Tulley & Con / 450 cords No 8 & 10 - 130 Dez: in 4 simpls. / for my Father Peter Leman. / by me James Leman'","inscriber":{"name":{"text":"","id":""},"association":{"text":"","id":""}},"date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"description":"","interpretation":"","language":"","medium":"Ink","method":"Handwriting","position":"Visible on the fold.","script":"","translation":"","transliteration":"","type":"Textual information","note":"Handwritten text in ink including the designer's signature and date, on the back of the design, on the fold."},{"content":"Squared up in pencil for cords and dezines and numbered in ink.","inscriber":{"name":{"text":"","id":""},"association":{"text":"","id":""}},"date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"description":"","interpretation":"","language":"","medium":"Ink","method":"Handwriting","position":"On the front of the design.","script":"","translation":"","transliteration":"","type":"Makers's and designer's marks","note":"Handwritten makers' and designer's marks in pencil and ink, on the front of the design."}],"objectHistory":"This is a design from the so-called 'Leman album' which was bought from Vanners Silks Ltd. in 1991. Natalie Rothstein catalogued the designs before the album was bought by the Victoria and Albert Museum. She gave each design a VS number (for Vanners Silks) in her catalogue <u>Silk Designs of the Eighteenth Century</u>. The designs have been subsequently numbered by the Prints, Drawings and Paintings Department, however, a concordance exists.\n\nHistorical significance: The designs collected in the album are, with the exception of some fragmentary medieval examples in Italian collections, the earliest silk designs known to exist.","historicalContext":"","briefDescription":"Design for woven silk from the 'Leman Album', pencil, pen and ink, watercolour and bodycolour on laid paper, by James Leman, Spitalfields, 1710-1711","bibliographicReferences":[{"reference":{"text":"Rothstein, Natalie. <u>Silk Designs of the Eighteenth Century in the Collection of the Victoria and Albert Museum, London with a Complete Catalogue with 473 Illustrations, 371 in Colour</u>. London: Thames and Hudson, 1990. 351p., ill. ISBN 0500235899.","id":"AUTH324304"},"details":"p. 106","free":"Full text of the entry is as follows:\n\n   'London March 9<sup>th</sup> ... 1710/11 \n    This pattern for a Damask brocade with \n    gold or silver for Mr Tulley & Con \n    450 cords No 8 & 10 - 130 Dez: in 4 simpls. \n    for my Father Peter Leman. \n    by me James Leman\nSquared up in pencil for cords and dezines \nand numbered in ink.\n23 3/4\" (60.4) X 10 3/8\" (26.4)\nHJ.560, CT.18348   [VS48: there are two nos \n'48' and this design has been given the no. 48]'"}],"production":"Natalie Rothstein stated in her book <u>Silk Designs of the Eighteenth Century</u> that '[VS48: there are two nos '48' and this design has been given the no. 48]'.","productionType":{"text":"","id":""},"contentDescription":"","contentPlaces":[],"associatedPlaces":[],"contentPerson":[],"associatedPerson":[],"contentOrganisations":[],"associatedOrganisations":[],"contentPeople":[],"associatedPeople":[],"contentEvents":[],"associatedEvents":[],"contentOthers":[],"contentConcepts":[],"contentLiteraryRefs":[],"galleryLabels":[],"partNumbers":["E.1861:106-1991"],"accessionNumberNum":"1861","accessionNumberPrefix":"E","accessionYear":1991,"otherNumbers":[{"type":{"text":"'VS' stands for Vanners Silks which owned the album when Natalie Rothstein catalogued it for her publication <u>Silk Designs of the Eighteenth Century</u>.","id":"THES55481"},"number":"VS.48"}],"copyNumber":"","aspects":["WHOLE"],"assets":[],"recordModificationDate":"2025-05-09","recordCreationDate":"2002-05-03","availableToBook":false}}