{"meta":{"version":"2.1","_links":{"self":{"href":"https://api.vam.ac.uk/v2/object/O65120"},"collection_page":{"href":"https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O65120/"}},"images":{"_primary_thumbnail":"https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2006AL2203/full/!100,100/0/default.jpg","_iiif_image":"https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2006AL2203/","_alt_iiif_image":[],"imageResolution":"high","_images_meta":[{"assetRef":"2006AL2203","copyright":"©Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2006AL2202","copyright":"©Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2019MJ7723","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false}]},"see_also":{"_iiif_pres":"https://iiif.vam.ac.uk/collections/O65120/manifest.json","_alt_iiif_pres":[]}},"record":{"systemNumber":"O65120","accessionNumber":"E.1861:30-1991","objectType":"Design","titles":[],"summaryDescription":"This design is from an album that contains 104 designs for fine woven silk cloth and is dated September 28th 1706. A constant supply of fashionable new designs from which to create new lines was required, so patternmakers and master weavers like James Leman supplied a wide range of designs for different weavers. The album contains some of his work from the period 1706-1716, as well as five designs from the 1730s.\r\n\r\nJames Leman was born in 1688 into a weaving family of Huguenot descent. In 1702 he was apprenticed to his father, Peter, and lived with his family in Stewart Street, Spitalfields in London. Leman's inscription on the design reveals that it was commissioned by Mr Sadler, a mercer who commissioned seven designs between 1706 and 1710.","physicalDescription":"Design for woven silk from the 'Leman Album', in pencil, pen and ink and watercolour on laid paper, depicting huge, luxuriant fern-like and other leaves, behind which is a fruit-bearing branch and below which are huge flowers in a semi-circular shape from which emerge roots, all in ochre on a white ground.\r\n\r\nThere are pencil sketches of wavy lines and drawings of shading and also crosshatching for shading amongst pencil inscriptions which are visible on the front of the fold. \n\nThe design is squared up in ink for cords and dezines. ","artistMakerPerson":[{"name":{"text":"Leman, James","id":"A5979"},"association":{"text":"designer","id":"x36960"},"note":""}],"artistMakerOrganisations":[],"artistMakerPeople":[],"materials":[{"text":"Pencil","id":"x30347"},{"text":"Ink","id":"AAT15012"},{"text":"Watercolour","id":"x33202"},{"text":"Laid paper","id":"AAT14184"}],"techniques":[{"text":"Painting","id":"x30598"},{"text":"Drawing","id":"x32498"}],"materialsAndTechniques":"Pencil, pen and ink and watercolour on laid paper","categories":[{"text":"Designs","id":"THES48968"},{"text":"Textiles","id":"THES48885"}],"styles":[],"collectionCode":{"text":"PDP","id":"THES48595"},"images":["2006AL2203","2006AL2202","2019MJ7723"],"imageResolution":"high","galleryLocations":[{"current":{"text":"LVLC","id":"THES49171"},"free":"","case":"MB2E","shelf":"DR76","box":""}],"partTypes":[[{"text":"designs","id":"AAT102051"}]],"contentWarnings":[{"apprise":"","note":""}],"placesOfOrigin":[{"place":{"text":"Spitalfields","id":"x29420"},"association":{"text":"designed","id":"x29338"},"note":""}],"productionDates":[{"date":{"text":"28/09/1706","earliest":"1706-09-28","latest":"1706-09-28"},"association":{"text":"designed","id":"x29338"},"note":""}],"associatedObjects":[],"creditLine":"Purchased with Art Fund support and the National Heritage Memorial Fund","dimensions":[{"dimension":"Height","value":"75","unit":"cm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"","note":""},{"dimension":"Width","value":"27","unit":"cm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"","note":""},{"dimension":"Height","value":"29.5","unit":"in","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"","note":""},{"dimension":"Width","value":"10.625","unit":"in","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"","note":""}],"dimensionsNote":"Dimensions taken from Rothstein, Natalie. <u>Silk Designs of the Eighteenth Century in the Collection of the Victoria and Albert Museum, London with a Complete Catalogue with 473 Illustrations, 371 in Colour</u>. London: Thames and Hudson, 1990.","marksAndInscriptions":[{"content":"'London Sep<sup>r</sup>: 28<sup>th</sup> 1706 Sattin Tishue for / Mr Sadler & Comp / 450 Cords No 8 & 10 -168 Dezines / James Leman / 168 Dezines   33         56 in one simple / 10 / ---- / 560 lashes in one simple /  3 /  ---- / 1680 Lashes in all'","inscriber":{"name":{"text":"","id":""},"association":{"text":"","id":""}},"date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"description":"","interpretation":"","language":"","medium":"Ink","method":"Handwriting","position":"Invisible because the design is pasted down but recorded by Natalie Rothstein.","script":"","translation":"","transliteration":"","type":"Signature; date","note":"Handwritten text in ink including the designer's signature and date, on the back of the design. It is invisible because the design is pasted down but was recorded by Natalie Rothstein."},{"content":"'T H E Sonata'","inscriber":{"name":{"text":"","id":""},"association":{"text":"","id":""}},"date":{"text":"Possibly not 1706.","earliest":"1706-01-01","latest":"1706-12-31"},"description":"","interpretation":"","language":"","medium":"Pencil","method":"Handwriting","position":"Visible on the fold near some slight pencil sketches.","script":"","translation":"","transliteration":"","type":"Unknown","note":"Handwritten text in pencil, visible on the fold of the design near some slight pencil sketches. Possibly not from 1706."},{"content":"Squared up in ink for cords and dezines.","inscriber":{"name":{"text":"","id":""},"association":{"text":"","id":""}},"date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"description":"","interpretation":"","language":"","medium":"Ink","method":"Handwriting","position":"On the front of the design.","script":"","translation":"","transliteration":"","type":"Makers's and designer's marks","note":"Handwritten makers' and designer's marks in ink, on the front of the design."}],"objectHistory":"This is a design from the so-called 'Leman album' which was bought from Vanners Silks Ltd. in 1991. Natalie Rothstein catalogued the designs before the album was bought by the Victoria and Albert Museum. She gave each design a VS number (for Vanners Silks) in her catalogue <u>Silk Designs of the Eighteenth Century</u>. The designs have been subsequently numbered by the Prints, Drawings and Paintings Department, however, a concordance exists.\n\nHistorical significance: The designs collected in the album are, with the exception of some fragmentary medieval examples in Italian collections, the earliest silk designs known to exist.","historicalContext":"","briefDescription":"Design for woven silk from the 'Leman Album', pencil, pen and ink and watercolour on laid paper, by James Leman, Spitalfields, 1706","bibliographicReferences":[{"reference":{"text":"Rothstein, Natalie. <u>Silk Designs of the Eighteenth Century in the Collection of the Victoria and Albert Museum, London with a Complete Catalogue with 473 Illustrations, 371 in Colour</u>. London: Thames and Hudson, 1990. 351p., ill. ISBN 0500235899.","id":"AUTH324304"},"details":"p. 98, illus. p. 98","free":""}],"production":"","productionType":{"text":"","id":""},"contentDescription":"","contentPlaces":[],"associatedPlaces":[],"contentPerson":[],"associatedPerson":[],"contentOrganisations":[],"associatedOrganisations":[],"contentPeople":[],"associatedPeople":[],"contentEvents":[],"associatedEvents":[],"contentOthers":[],"contentConcepts":[],"contentLiteraryRefs":[],"galleryLabels":[],"partNumbers":["E.1861:30-1991"],"accessionNumberNum":"1861","accessionNumberPrefix":"E","accessionYear":1991,"otherNumbers":[{"type":{"text":"'VS' stands for Vanners Silks which owned the album when Natalie Rothstein catalogued it for her publication <u>Silk Designs of the Eighteenth Century</u>.","id":"THES55481"},"number":"VS.24"}],"copyNumber":"","aspects":["WHOLE"],"assets":[],"recordModificationDate":"2025-05-09","recordCreationDate":"2002-05-03","availableToBook":false}}