{"meta":{"version":"2.1","_links":{"self":{"href":"https://api.vam.ac.uk/v2/object/O65108"},"collection_page":{"href":"https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O65108/"}},"images":{"_primary_thumbnail":"https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2006AL2214/full/!100,100/0/default.jpg","_iiif_image":"https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2006AL2214/","_alt_iiif_image":[],"imageResolution":"high","_images_meta":[{"assetRef":"2006AL2214","copyright":"©Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2006AL1247","copyright":"©Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false}]},"see_also":{"_iiif_pres":"https://iiif.vam.ac.uk/collections/O65108/manifest.json","_alt_iiif_pres":[]}},"record":{"systemNumber":"O65108","accessionNumber":"E.1861:18-1991","objectType":"Design","titles":[],"summaryDescription":"This design is from an album that contains 104 designs for fine woven silk cloth and is dated January 15th 1711/12. A constant supply of fashionable new designs from which to create new lines was required, so patternmakers and master weavers like James Leman supplied a wide range of designs for different weavers. The album contains some of his work from the period 1706-1716, as well as five designs from the 1730s.\r\n\r\nJames Leman was born in 1688 into a weaving family of Huguenot descent. In 1702 he was apprenticed to his father, Peter, and lived with his family in Stewart Street, Spitalfields in London. Leman's inscription on the design states that it was made for his father Peter Leman, showing that he drew it while still an apprentice.","physicalDescription":"Design for woven silk from the 'Leman Album', in pencil, pen and ink and watercolour on laid paper, in yellow, yellow ochre, brown and purple, depicting a central panel of swirling volutes in brown wash, which are decorated internally with a diaper effect and set against undulating leaves. At either side of the design are yellow stripes decorated with yellow ochre volutes. Spiralling purple tendrils adorned with fruit, flowers and foliage are superimposed over these motifs.  \n\nThe design is squared up in pencil for cords and dezines, with dezines numbered in ink.","artistMakerPerson":[{"name":{"text":"Leman, James","id":"A5979"},"association":{"text":"designer","id":"x36960"},"note":""}],"artistMakerOrganisations":[],"artistMakerPeople":[],"materials":[{"text":"Pencil","id":"x30347"},{"text":"Ink","id":"AAT15012"},{"text":"Watercolour","id":"x33202"},{"text":"Laid paper","id":"AAT14184"}],"techniques":[{"text":"Painting","id":"x30598"},{"text":"Drawing","id":"x32498"}],"materialsAndTechniques":"Pencil, pen and ink and watercolour on laid paper","categories":[{"text":"Designs","id":"THES48968"},{"text":"Textiles","id":"THES48885"}],"styles":[],"collectionCode":{"text":"PDP","id":"THES48595"},"images":["2006AL2214","2006AL1247"],"imageResolution":"high","galleryLocations":[{"current":{"text":"LVLE","id":"THES49657"},"free":"","case":"SB6","shelf":"SH8","box":""}],"partTypes":[[{"text":"designs","id":"AAT102051"}]],"contentWarnings":[{"apprise":"","note":""}],"placesOfOrigin":[{"place":{"text":"Spitalfields","id":"x29420"},"association":{"text":"designed","id":"x29338"},"note":""}],"productionDates":[{"date":{"text":"15/01/1711-1712","earliest":"1711-01-15","latest":"1712-12-31"},"association":{"text":"designed","id":"x29338"},"note":""}],"associatedObjects":[],"creditLine":"Purchased with Art Fund support and the National Heritage Memorial Fund","dimensions":[{"dimension":"Height","value":"37.5","unit":"cm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"","note":""},{"dimension":"Width","value":"26.1","unit":"cm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"","note":""},{"dimension":"Height","value":"14.75","unit":"in","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"","note":""},{"dimension":"Width","value":"10.25","unit":"in","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"","note":""}],"dimensionsNote":"Dimensions taken from Rothstein, Natalie. <u>Silk Designs of the Eighteenth Century in the Collection of the Victoria and Albert Museum, London with a Complete Catalogue with 473 Illustrations, 371 in Colour</u>. London: Thames and Hudson, 1990.","marksAndInscriptions":[{"content":"'Jan: 15-1711/12 This pattern for a 900 = 8 \r\nthred Damask brocaded with Silver\r\n450 cords No 8 & 10-80 Dez: 2 simples\r\nfor my father Peter Leman\r\nby me James Leman'","inscriber":{"name":{"text":"","id":""},"association":{"text":"","id":""}},"date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"description":"","interpretation":"","language":"","medium":"Ink","method":"Handwriting","position":"It is difficult to see this inscription because it is on the back of the design which is partly pasted down.  It was, however, recorded by Natalie Rothstein.","script":"","translation":"","transliteration":"","type":"Signature; date","note":"Handwritten text in ink including the designer's signature and date, on the back of the design. The inscription is invisible because the design is pasted down. However, it was recorded by Natalie Rothstein in her book <u>Silk Designs of the Eighteenth Century</u>."},{"content":"Squared up in pencil for cords and dezines, with dezines numbered in ink.","inscriber":{"name":{"text":"","id":""},"association":{"text":"","id":""}},"date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"description":"","interpretation":"","language":"","medium":"Ink","method":"Handwriting","position":"On the front of the design.","script":"","translation":"","transliteration":"","type":"Makers's and designer's marks","note":"Handwritten makers' and designer's marks in pencil and ink, on the front of the design."}],"objectHistory":"This is a design from the so-called 'Leman album' which was bought from Vanners Silks Ltd. in 1991. Natalie Rothstein catalogued the designs before the album was bought by the Victoria and Albert Museum. She gave each design a VS number (for Vanners Silks) in her catalogue <u>Silk Designs of the Eighteenth Century</u>. The designs have been subsequently numbered by the Prints, Drawings and Paintings Department, however, a concordance exists.\n\nHistorical significance: The designs collected in the album are, with the exception of some fragmentary medieval examples in Italian collections, the earliest silk designs known to exist.","historicalContext":"","briefDescription":"Design for woven silk from the 'Leman Album', pencil, pen and ink and watercolour on laid paper, by James Leman, 1711-1712","bibliographicReferences":[{"reference":{"text":"Rothstein, Natalie. <u>Silk Designs of the Eighteenth Century in the Collection of the Victoria and Albert Museum, London with a Complete Catalogue with 473 Illustrations, 371 in Colour</u>. London: Thames and Hudson, 1990. 351p., ill. ISBN 0500235899.","id":"AUTH324304"},"details":"p. 106","free":""}],"production":"","productionType":{"text":"","id":""},"contentDescription":"","contentPlaces":[],"associatedPlaces":[],"contentPerson":[],"associatedPerson":[],"contentOrganisations":[],"associatedOrganisations":[],"contentPeople":[],"associatedPeople":[],"contentEvents":[],"associatedEvents":[],"contentOthers":[],"contentConcepts":[],"contentLiteraryRefs":[],"galleryLabels":[],"partNumbers":["E.1861:18-1991"],"accessionNumberNum":"1861","accessionNumberPrefix":"E","accessionYear":1991,"otherNumbers":[{"type":{"text":"'VS' stands for Vanners Silks which owned the album when Natalie Rothstein catalogued it for her publication <u>Silk Designs of the Eighteenth Century</u>.","id":"THES55481"},"number":"VS.12"}],"copyNumber":"","aspects":["WHOLE"],"assets":[],"recordModificationDate":"2025-05-09","recordCreationDate":"2002-05-03","availableToBook":false}}