{"meta":{"version":"2.1","_links":{"self":{"href":"https://api.vam.ac.uk/v2/object/O65107"},"collection_page":{"href":"https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O65107/"}},"images":{"_primary_thumbnail":"https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2006AL2216/full/!100,100/0/default.jpg","_iiif_image":"https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2006AL2216/","_alt_iiif_image":[],"imageResolution":"high","_images_meta":[{"assetRef":"2006AL2216","copyright":"©Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2006AL2215","copyright":"©Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false}]},"see_also":{"_iiif_pres":"https://iiif.vam.ac.uk/collections/O65107/manifest.json","_alt_iiif_pres":[]}},"record":{"systemNumber":"O65107","accessionNumber":"E.1861:17-1991","objectType":"Design","titles":[],"summaryDescription":"This design is from an album that contains 104 designs for fine woven silk cloth and is from about 1711. A constant supply of fashionable new designs from which to create new lines was required, so patternmakers and master weavers like James Leman supplied a wide range of designs for different weavers. The album contains some of his work from the period 1706-1716, as well as five designs from the 1730s.\r\n\r\nJames Leman was born in 1688 into a weaving family of Huguenot descent. In 1702 he was apprenticed to his father, Peter, and lived with his family in Stewart Street, Spitalfields in London. Leman's inscription on the design states that it was made for his father Peter Leman, showing that he drew it while still an apprentice.","physicalDescription":"Design for woven silk from the 'Leman Album', in pencil, pen and ink and watercolour depicting a central stripe of volutes on either side of which are floral stripes with narrow stripes similar to the central one on either side of these. The design is in pale orange, light pink, red, brown and yellowish green.\n\nSquared up in pencil for cords and dezines, with dezines numbered in pencil.","artistMakerPerson":[{"name":{"text":"Leman, James","id":"A5979"},"association":{"text":"designer","id":"x36960"},"note":""}],"artistMakerOrganisations":[],"artistMakerPeople":[],"materials":[{"text":"Pencil","id":"x30347"},{"text":"Ink","id":"AAT15012"},{"text":"Watercolour","id":"x33202"},{"text":"Laid paper","id":"AAT14184"}],"techniques":[{"text":"Painting","id":"x30598"},{"text":"Drawing","id":"x32498"}],"materialsAndTechniques":"Pencil, pen and ink and watercolour on laid paper","categories":[{"text":"Designs","id":"THES48968"},{"text":"Textiles","id":"THES48885"}],"styles":[],"collectionCode":{"text":"PDP","id":"THES48595"},"images":["2006AL2216","2006AL2215"],"imageResolution":"high","galleryLocations":[{"current":{"text":"LVLE","id":"THES49657"},"free":"","case":"SB6","shelf":"SH8","box":""}],"partTypes":[[{"text":"designs","id":"AAT102051"}]],"contentWarnings":[{"apprise":"","note":""}],"placesOfOrigin":[{"place":{"text":"Spitalfields","id":"x29420"},"association":{"text":"designed","id":"x29338"},"note":""}],"productionDates":[{"date":{"text":"ca. 1711","earliest":"1706-01-01","latest":"1715-12-31"},"association":{"text":"designed","id":"x29338"},"note":""}],"associatedObjects":[],"creditLine":"Purchased with Art Fund support and the National Heritage Memorial Fund","dimensions":[{"dimension":"Height","value":"20.3","unit":"cm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"","note":""},{"dimension":"Width","value":"26.4","unit":"cm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"","note":""},{"dimension":"Height","value":"8","unit":"in","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"","note":""},{"dimension":"Width","value":"10.375","unit":"in","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"","note":""}],"dimensionsNote":"Dimensions taken from Rothstein, Natalie. <u>Silk Designs of the Eighteenth Century in the Collection of the Victoria and Albert Museum, London with a Complete Catalogue with 473 Illustrations, 371 in Colour</u>. London: Thames and Hudson, 1990.","marksAndInscriptions":[{"content":"'This pattern a 900/8 thred dam: bro: & flush - The binders taken out of [the] sattin and warpd alone ev'ry 4th thred. This pattern 450 cords No. 8 & 10 [- 44 Dez. 2 sim[ples?]]  \r\nFor my Father P: Leman. J. Le. The following direction is to warp the [sattin] and binders of this figure note that in the stripes where the gold or silver is [it must ] be warped with gold col<sup>r</sup>: or white. To warp boath Sattin & Binders with 25 bobbins.' [Brackets indicate inaccessibility due to the design being pasted down]. ","inscriber":{"name":{"text":"","id":""},"association":{"text":"","id":""}},"date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"description":"","interpretation":"","language":"","medium":"Ink","method":"Handwriting","position":"The inscription is invisible because the design is pasted down.  Natalie Rothstein, however, recorded it.  She stated, nevertheless, '[brackets indicate inaccessibility due to the design being pasted down].","script":"","translation":"","transliteration":"","type":"Signature","note":"Handwritten text in ink including the designer's signature and date, on the back of the design. The inscription is invisible because the design is pasted down. However, it was recorded by Natalie Rothstein in her book <u>Silk Designs of the Eighteenth Century</u>. She stated '[brackets indicate inaccessibility due to the design being pasted down]'."},{"content":"'for the sattin                                                  for ye binders\r\n<u>3</u>......................A /                                           <u>1</u>.......................A /\r\n<u>18</u>....................B /                                           <u>6</u>.......................B /\r\n<u>12</u>....................A /                                           <u>4</u>.......................A /\r\n<u>18</u>....................B /                                           <u>6</u>.......................B /\r\n<u>6</u>......................A /                                           <u>2</u>.......................A /\r\n<u>18</u>....................B /                                           <u>6</u>.......................B /\r\n<u>12</u>....................A /                                           <u>4</u>.......................A /\r\n<u>18</u>....................B /                                           <u>6</u>.......................B /\r\n<u>3</u>......................A /                                           <u>1</u>.......................A /\r\n___                                                                 __                     108\r\n108                                                                 36                       36\r\n                                                                                                <u>  _  </u>\r\n                                                                                                144'","inscriber":{"name":{"text":"","id":""},"association":{"text":"","id":""}},"date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"description":"","interpretation":"","language":"","medium":"Ink","method":"Handwriting","position":"","script":"","translation":"","transliteration":"","type":"Makers's and designer's marks","note":"Handwritten makers' and designer's marks in ink, on the back of the design."},{"content":"Squared up in pencil for cords and dezines, with dezines numbered in pencil.","inscriber":{"name":{"text":"","id":""},"association":{"text":"","id":""}},"date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"description":"","interpretation":"","language":"","medium":"Pencil","method":"Handwriting","position":"On the front of the design.","script":"","translation":"","transliteration":"","type":"Makers's and designer's marks","note":"Handwritten makers' and designer's marks in pencil, on the front of the design."}],"objectHistory":"This is a design from the so-called 'Leman album' which was bought from Vanners Silks Ltd. in 1991. Natalie Rothstein catalogued the designs before the album was bought by the Victoria and Albert Museum. She gave each design a VS number (for Vanners Silks) in her catalogue <u>Silk Designs of the Eighteenth Century</u>. The designs have been subsequently numbered by the Prints, Drawings and Paintings Department, however, a concordance exists.\n\nHistorical significance: The designs collected in the album are, with the exception of some fragmentary medieval examples in Italian collections, the earliest silk designs known to exist.","historicalContext":"","briefDescription":"Design for woven silk from the 'Leman Album', pencil, pen and ink and watercolour on laid paper, by James Leman, Spitalfields, ca. 1711","bibliographicReferences":[{"reference":{"text":"Rothstein, Natalie. <u>Silk Designs of the Eighteenth Century in the Collection of the Victoria and Albert Museum, London with a Complete Catalogue with 473 Illustrations, 371 in Colour</u>. London: Thames and Hudson, 1990. 351p., ill. ISBN 0500235899.","id":"AUTH324304"},"details":"p. 104, illus. above (p. 104)","free":""}],"production":"Natalie Rothstein stated in her book <u>Silk Designs of the Eighteenth Century</u> that this drawing was 'about 1711' and asked that it be compared with drawings E.1861.28-1991 (VS.22) and E.1861.32-1991 (VS.26).","productionType":{"text":"","id":""},"contentDescription":"","contentPlaces":[],"associatedPlaces":[],"contentPerson":[],"associatedPerson":[],"contentOrganisations":[],"associatedOrganisations":[],"contentPeople":[],"associatedPeople":[],"contentEvents":[],"associatedEvents":[],"contentOthers":[],"contentConcepts":[],"contentLiteraryRefs":[],"galleryLabels":[],"partNumbers":["E.1861:17-1991"],"accessionNumberNum":"1861","accessionNumberPrefix":"E","accessionYear":1991,"otherNumbers":[{"type":{"text":"'VS' stands for Vanners Silks which owned the album when Natalie Rothstein catalogued it for her publication <u>Silk Designs of the Eighteenth Century</u>.","id":"THES55481"},"number":"VS.11"}],"copyNumber":"","aspects":["WHOLE"],"assets":[],"recordModificationDate":"2025-05-09","recordCreationDate":"2002-05-03","availableToBook":false}}