{"meta":{"version":"2.1","_links":{"self":{"href":"https://api.vam.ac.uk/v2/object/O64980"},"collection_page":{"href":"https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O64980/"}},"images":{"_primary_thumbnail":"https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2006AL2220/full/!100,100/0/default.jpg","_iiif_image":"https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2006AL2220/","_alt_iiif_image":[],"imageResolution":"high","_images_meta":[{"assetRef":"2006AL2220","copyright":"©Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2006AL2221","copyright":"©Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false}]},"see_also":{"_iiif_pres":"https://iiif.vam.ac.uk/collections/O64980/manifest.json","_alt_iiif_pres":[]}},"record":{"systemNumber":"O64980","accessionNumber":"E.1861:8-1991","objectType":"Design","titles":[],"summaryDescription":"This design is from an album that contains 104 designs for fine woven silk cloth and is dated May 28th 1712. A constant supply of fashionable new designs from which to create new lines was required, so patternmakers and master weavers like James Leman supplied a wide range of designs for different weavers. The album contains some of his work from the period 1706-1716, as well as five designs from the 1730s.\r\n\r\nJames Leman was born in 1688 into a weaving family of Huguenot descent. In 1702 he was apprenticed to his father, Peter, and lived with his family in Stewart Street, Spitalfields in London. Leman's inscription on the design states that it was made for his father Peter Leman, showing that he drew it while still an apprentice. The inscription also reveals that the design was commissioned by Mr Hinchliff. Two generations of mercers with this name bought silks from the Lemans between 1712 and 1747. ","physicalDescription":"Design for woven silk from the 'Leman Album', in pencil, pen and ink and watercolour on laid paper, depicting a purple meander on which are four floral sprigs on a plain ground, indicated by the blank paper as background, on which are scattered four other purple sprigs. Three ofthe sprigs terminate in volutes. There are five extra motifs, of irregular shape and size, pasted at the foot of the page. Each of these motifs has its own museum number and is catalogued separately.\n\nThe design is squared up in pencil for cords and dezines. There is some pencil numbering but it does not appear to correspond with cords and dezines.","artistMakerPerson":[{"name":{"text":"Leman, James","id":"A5979"},"association":{"text":"designer","id":"x36960"},"note":""}],"artistMakerOrganisations":[],"artistMakerPeople":[],"materials":[{"text":"Pencil","id":"x30347"},{"text":"Ink","id":"AAT15012"},{"text":"Watercolour","id":"x33202"},{"text":"Laid paper","id":"AAT14184"}],"techniques":[{"text":"Painting","id":"x30598"},{"text":"Drawing","id":"x32498"}],"materialsAndTechniques":"Pencil, pen and ink and watercolour on laid paper","categories":[{"text":"Designs","id":"THES48968"},{"text":"Textiles","id":"THES48885"}],"styles":[],"collectionCode":{"text":"PDP","id":"THES48595"},"images":["2006AL2220","2006AL2221"],"imageResolution":"high","galleryLocations":[{"current":{"text":"LVLE","id":"THES49657"},"free":"","case":"SB6","shelf":"SH8","box":""}],"partTypes":[[{"text":"designs","id":"AAT102051"}]],"contentWarnings":[{"apprise":"","note":""}],"placesOfOrigin":[{"place":{"text":"Spitalfields","id":"x29420"},"association":{"text":"designed","id":"x29338"},"note":""}],"productionDates":[{"date":{"text":"28/05/1712","earliest":"1712-05-28","latest":"1712-05-28"},"association":{"text":"designed","id":"x29338"},"note":""}],"associatedObjects":[],"creditLine":"Purchased with Art Fund support and the National Heritage Memorial Fund","dimensions":[{"dimension":"Height","value":"37","unit":"cm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"","note":""},{"dimension":"Width","value":"26","unit":"cm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"","note":""},{"dimension":"Height","value":"14.5","unit":"in","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"","note":""},{"dimension":"Width","value":"10.25","unit":"in","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"","note":""}],"dimensionsNote":"Dimensions taken from Rothstein, Natalie. <u>Silk Designs of the Eighteenth Century in the Collection of the Victoria and Albert Museum, London with a Complete Catalogue with 473 Illustrations, 371 in Colour</u>. London: Thames and Hudson, 1990.","marksAndInscriptions":[{"content":"'May 28th 1712. Sattin brod. wth. silver \r\nfor Mr Hinchliff. \r\n450 cords No.8 & 10-50 Dez.\r\nFor my father Peter Leman\r\nJ.L.'","inscriber":{"name":{"text":"","id":""},"association":{"text":"","id":""}},"date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"description":"","interpretation":"","language":"","medium":"Ink","method":"Handwriting","position":"","script":"","translation":"","transliteration":"","type":"Signature; date","note":"Handwritten text in ink including the designer's signature and date, on the back of the design. The inscription is invisible because the design is pasted down. However, it was recorded by Natalie Rothstein in her book <u>Silk Designs of the Eighteenth Century</u>."},{"content":"Ink strokes on the motifs pasted onto the bottom of the page correspond to markings on the main design and thus perhaps indicate where they should be positioned.","inscriber":{"name":{"text":"","id":""},"association":{"text":"","id":""}},"date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"description":"","interpretation":"","language":"","medium":"Ink","method":"Drawing","position":"On the motifs pasted at the bottom of the page and on the main design.","script":"","translation":"","transliteration":"","type":"Makers's and designer's marks","note":"Handwritten makers' and designer's marks in ink, on the front of the main design and on the motifs pasted at the bottom of the page."},{"content":"Squared up in pencil for cords and dezines.","inscriber":{"name":{"text":"","id":""},"association":{"text":"","id":""}},"date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"description":"","interpretation":"","language":"","medium":"Pencil","method":"Drawing","position":"Over the surface of the design.","script":"","translation":"","transliteration":"","type":"Makers's and designer's marks","note":"Handwritten makers' and designer's marks in pencil, on the front of the design."},{"content":"Some numbering, in pencil, which does not appear to correspond with cords and dezines.","inscriber":{"name":{"text":"","id":""},"association":{"text":"","id":""}},"date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"description":"","interpretation":"","language":"","medium":"Pencil","method":"Handwriting","position":"Left side of design.","script":"","translation":"","transliteration":"","type":"","note":"Handwritten makers' and designer's marks in pencil, on the front of the design, on the left hand side. "}],"objectHistory":"This is a design from the so-called 'Leman album' which was bought from Vanners Silks Ltd. in 1991. Natalie Rothstein catalogued the designs before the album was bought by the Victoria and Albert Museum. She gave each design a VS number (for Vanners Silks) in her catalogue <u>Silk Designs of the Eighteenth Century</u>. The designs have been subsequently numbered by the Prints, Drawings and Paintings Department, however, a concordance exists.\n\nHistorical significance: The designs collected in the album are, with the exception of some fragmentary medieval examples in Italian collections, the earliest silk designs known to exist.","historicalContext":"","briefDescription":"Design for woven silk from the 'Leman Album', pencil, pen and ink and watercolour on laid paper, by James Leman, Spitalfields, 1712","bibliographicReferences":[{"reference":{"text":"Rothstein, Natalie. <u>Silk Designs of the Eighteenth Century in the Collection of the Victoria and Albert Museum, London with a Complete Catalogue with 473 Illustrations, 371 in Colour</u>. London: Thames and Hudson, 1990. 351p., ill. ISBN 0500235899.","id":"AUTH324304"},"details":"p. 106","free":""}],"production":"Attribution note: The five extra motifs pasted on at the foot of the page of irregular shape and size are apparently alternative designs for the scattered motifs of this design. Ink strokes on these motifs correspond to markings on the main design and thus perhaps indicate where they should be positioned. This information is taken from Natalie Rothstein's publication, <u>Silk Designs of the Eighteenth Century</u>. See the 'References' section for more bibliographic details.\n\nEach of the five extra motifs has its own museum number and is catalogued separately - E.1861.9-1991, E.1861.10-1991, E.1861.11-1991, E.1861.12-1991 and E.1861.13-1991.","productionType":{"text":"","id":""},"contentDescription":"","contentPlaces":[],"associatedPlaces":[],"contentPerson":[],"associatedPerson":[],"contentOrganisations":[],"associatedOrganisations":[],"contentPeople":[],"associatedPeople":[],"contentEvents":[],"associatedEvents":[],"contentOthers":[],"contentConcepts":[],"contentLiteraryRefs":[],"galleryLabels":[],"partNumbers":["E.1861:8-1991"],"accessionNumberNum":"1861","accessionNumberPrefix":"E","accessionYear":1991,"otherNumbers":[{"type":{"text":"'VS' stands for Vanners Silks which owned the album when Natalie Rothstein catalogued it for her publication <u>Silk Designs of the Eighteenth Century</u>.","id":"THES55481"},"number":"VS.7"}],"copyNumber":"","aspects":["WHOLE"],"assets":[],"recordModificationDate":"2025-05-09","recordCreationDate":"2002-05-02","availableToBook":false}}