{"meta":{"version":"2.1","_links":{"self":{"href":"https://api.vam.ac.uk/v2/object/O64724"},"collection_page":{"href":"https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O64724/"}},"images":{"_primary_thumbnail":"https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2006AF4317/full/!100,100/0/default.jpg","_iiif_image":"https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2006AF4317/","_alt_iiif_image":[],"imageResolution":"low","_images_meta":[{"assetRef":"2006AF4317","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false}]},"see_also":null},"record":{"systemNumber":"O64724","accessionNumber":"FE.65-2002","objectType":"Robe","titles":[],"summaryDescription":"Nō is the classical theatre of Japan which was codified in the 14th century by the father and son actors Kan'ami and Zeami under the patronage of the Shogun (supreme military leader) Ashikaga Yoshimitsu. Under Yoshimitsu the Zen principles of restraint, understatement, economy of movement and frugality of expression became incorporated into the performance. By the early seventeenth century Nō had become an even more austere and formalised drama reserved almost exclusively for the Tokugawa family, the ruling military elite.\r\n\r\nThe karaori (‘Chinese weave’) is the basic outer robe for the role of a woman in Nō performances. From the fourteenth century the tradition of the military aristocracy donating fine robes to Nō actors saw the gradual introduction and standardisation of both the karaori and atsuita robes into the drama. For roles of high-ranking beautiful younger women the designs of karaori often included auspicious motifs of peonies and phoenix rendered in gold and brightly coloured threads. This karaori is decorated with peonies and undulating lines on a green ground and is lined in purple silk; it was made by Yamaguchi Yasujirō, who was one of the master weavers of Kyoto.","physicalDescription":"<i>Karaori</i> type robe, a costume for the Nō theatre of woven silk. Worn for female roles, it is of standard construction with a design of three simultaneously woven silk layers: a twill weave ground (<i>ji</i>) in green, a background pattern (<i>jimon</i>) of undulating lines (<i>tatewaku</i>) in white and a top pattern (<i>uamon</i>) of peonies in long floats of dark and light blue, brown, orange-brown and white with leaves in two shades of green. Vegetable dyes have been used throughout. The lining is of purple silk.","artistMakerPerson":[{"name":{"text":"Yamaguchi, Yasujiro","id":"A6009"},"association":{"text":"weaver","id":"AAT25367"},"note":""}],"artistMakerOrganisations":[],"artistMakerPeople":[],"materials":[],"techniques":[],"materialsAndTechniques":"Silk woven on a jacquard loom","categories":[{"text":"Textiles","id":"THES48885"},{"text":"Clothing","id":"THES48975"},{"text":"Theatre costume","id":"THES268477"}],"styles":[],"collectionCode":{"text":"EAS","id":"THES48596"},"images":["2006AF4317"],"imageResolution":"low","galleryLocations":[{"current":{"text":"45","id":"THES49801"},"free":"","case":"CA010","shelf":"","box":""}],"partTypes":[[{"text":"Robe","id":""}]],"contentWarnings":[{"apprise":"","note":""}],"placesOfOrigin":[{"place":{"text":"Kyoto","id":"x31966"},"association":{"text":"made","id":"x28654"},"note":""}],"productionDates":[{"date":{"text":"1980","earliest":"1980-01-01","latest":"1980-12-31"},"association":{"text":"made","id":"x28654"},"note":""}],"associatedObjects":[],"creditLine":"Given by Yamaguchi Yasujiro","dimensions":[{"dimension":"Length","value":"160.5","unit":"cm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"","note":""},{"dimension":"Width","value":"151.5","unit":"cm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"","note":""}],"dimensionsNote":"","marksAndInscriptions":[],"objectHistory":"","historicalContext":"","briefDescription":"<i>Karaori</i> type robe for the Nō theatre of woven silk, made by Yamaguchi Yasujirō, Kyoto, Japan, 1980","bibliographicReferences":[],"production":"","productionType":{"text":"","id":""},"contentDescription":"","contentPlaces":[],"associatedPlaces":[],"contentPerson":[],"associatedPerson":[],"contentOrganisations":[],"associatedOrganisations":[],"contentPeople":[],"associatedPeople":[],"contentEvents":[],"associatedEvents":[],"contentOthers":[],"contentConcepts":[],"contentLiteraryRefs":[],"galleryLabels":[{"text":"Nō robe\r\n1980\r\n\r\nThe lavishly patterned robes of the Nō theatre are among Japan’s most spectacular textiles. This elaborate example would have been worn by an actor playing a female role. It was created by Yamaguchi Yasujirō, who dedicated his career to recreating the complex patterns, dyes and weaving techniques of Nō robes of the Edo period.\r\n\r\nYamaguchi Yasujirō (1904–2010)\r\nKyoto\r\nFigured silk\r\nGiven by the maker\r\nMuseum no. FE.65-2002\r\n","date":{"text":"24/11/2015","earliest":"2015-11-24","latest":"2015-11-24"}}],"partNumbers":["FE.65-2002"],"accessionNumberNum":"65","accessionNumberPrefix":"FE","accessionYear":2002,"otherNumbers":[],"copyNumber":"","aspects":["WHOLE"],"assets":[],"recordModificationDate":"2026-05-08","recordCreationDate":"2002-04-12","availableToBook":false}}