{"meta":{"version":"2.1","_links":{"self":{"href":"https://api.vam.ac.uk/v2/object/O538476"},"collection_page":{"href":"https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O538476/"}},"images":{"_primary_thumbnail":"https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2013GT6186/full/!100,100/0/default.jpg","_iiif_image":"https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2013GT6186/","_alt_iiif_image":[],"imageResolution":"high","_images_meta":[{"assetRef":"2013GT6186","copyright":"©Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false}]},"see_also":{"_iiif_pres":"https://iiif.vam.ac.uk/collections/O538476/manifest.json","_alt_iiif_pres":[]}},"record":{"systemNumber":"O538476","accessionNumber":"E.369-1957","objectType":"Fashion design","titles":[{"title":"Été 1901","type":"named collection"}],"summaryDescription":"This is one of a group of 29 sketches for dresses bound in a volume entitled Été 1901 (Summer 1901) from the Paris fashion house of Paquin. Founded by Jeanne Paquin (1869-1936) in 1891, Paquin was one of the most successful couture establishments at the turn of the nineteenth and twentieth centuries. The 29 gowns in this volume were all designed specially for actresses and singers of the time, including Juanita de Frezia and Carolina Otero, stars of the Folies-Bergère; and the musical theatre star Jeanne Granier.\r\n\r\nThis dress was designed for Manon Loti, a singer, actress, and renowned beauty. The sketch shows an afternoon dress entirely made of cream Alençon lace with a pale pink sash. At this time, fashionable women dressed to enhance their feminity. High-profile clients such as Loti expected fashion designers to create them the most beautiful, luxurious clothes to emphasise their looks. In May 1903, Loti, speaking to an American journalist as \"the most beautiful woman in Paris\", declared:\n\n\"Of course, women dress to please men. For what do you suppose a woman ought to dress? I assume that every woman dresses well enough to feel comfortable, that is, every civilized woman who has the means does so. Dressing to please men does not mean dressing for conquest. It means dressing so as to increase their happiness and your own. I don't mean that a woman should wear diamond bracelets at breakfast.\"\n","physicalDescription":"Afternoon dress for Manon Loti. Cream Alençon lace with pale pink sash, shown with wide brimmed hat and parasol. One of a group of 29 fashion designs bound in a volume of Paquin designs for Summer 1901.  Most in pencil with some ink and watercolour, some with names, details, and fabric  swatches attached.","artistMakerPerson":[{"name":{"text":"Paquin, Jeanne","id":"A2335"},"association":{"text":"designer","id":"x36960"},"note":""}],"artistMakerOrganisations":[{"name":{"text":"Paquin Ltd","id":"A27389"},"association":{"text":"designed for","id":"x41471"},"note":""}],"artistMakerPeople":[],"materials":[{"text":"pencil","id":"x30347"},{"text":"watercolour","id":"x33202"}],"techniques":[{"text":"drawing","id":"x32498"}],"materialsAndTechniques":"Pencil and watercolour drawing","categories":[{"text":"Fashion","id":"THES48957"},{"text":"Designs","id":"THES48968"},{"text":"Womenswear","id":"THES49044"},{"text":"Clothing","id":"THES48975"},{"text":"Drawings","id":"THES48966"}],"styles":[],"collectionCode":{"text":"PDP","id":"THES48595"},"images":["2013GT6186"],"imageResolution":"high","galleryLocations":[{"current":{"text":"LVLE","id":"THES49657"},"free":"","case":"96","shelf":"C","box":"7"}],"partTypes":[[{"text":"designs","id":"AAT102051"}]],"contentWarnings":[{"apprise":"","note":""}],"placesOfOrigin":[{"place":{"text":"Paris","id":"x29068"},"association":{"text":"made","id":"x28654"},"note":""}],"productionDates":[{"date":{"text":"early 1901","earliest":"1901-01-01","latest":"1901-06-30"},"association":{"text":"made","id":"x28654"},"note":""}],"associatedObjects":[],"creditLine":"Given by the House of Worth","dimensions":[{"dimension":"Height","value":"32.5","unit":"cm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"March 2012","earliest":"2012-03-01","latest":"2012-03-31"},"part":"","note":""},{"dimension":"Width","value":"22","unit":"cm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"March 2012","earliest":"2012-03-01","latest":"2012-03-31"},"part":"","note":""}],"dimensionsNote":"Mounted on cardboard measuring 37 by 29.5 cm.","marksAndInscriptions":[],"objectHistory":"This is one of a set of 29 designs (numbers E.351 to 379-1957)  in a bound volume titled Été 1901 (Summer 1901). These designs appear to have been grouped together because they were originally created for actresses and performers. Almost all the sketches have a client name noted on them, although in many instances the handwriting is tricky to decipher and very much open to interpretation. However, preliminary research has identified seven of the clients as follows:\n\nMme de Frezia was Juanita de Frezia, a performer at the Folies-Bergère whose career ran from the 1890s into the 1920s. She was featured on a 1899 poster for  the Folies-Bergère drawn by 'Lem', and later appeared in silent films during the 1910s and 1920s, including <i>Maud Jenkins</i>(1912), <i>La Femme Qui Assassina</i> (1912), <i>La prole</i> (1921), <i>La vivante épingle</i> (1921), <i>La joueuse d'orgue</i> (1924) and <i>Chouchou poids plume</i> (1927).\n\nYvonne Garrick was a young French comedy actress, born Marie-Berthe Yvonne Garrick, who made her acting debut in 1900. Her last performances appear to have been in 1921.\n\nJeanne Granier (1852-1939) was a successful French musical theatre star and opera singer who made her debut in 1873, and enjoyed significant success during the 1880s-1900s.\n\nManon Loti was an extremely beautiful opera singer and actress who was renowned for her elegance in early 20th century Paris. She enjoyed a certain notoriety, being reported in 1911 to have surrounded herself with deformed servants in order to emphasise her own good looks. \n\n'Orlandy' (sic) was the actress and socialite Suzanne Orlandi, who is mainly remembered now for being one of the first women (in 1912-13) to wear one of her friend Coco Chanel's original \"little black dresses\".\n\n'Otero' was Carolina Otero (1868-1965), also known as La Belle Otero. Whilst she was one of the star performers at the Folies-Bergère, Otero is best known as an extremely successful courtesan who counted Edward VII, Prince Albert I of Monaco, and royalty from Russia, Serbia and Spain amongst her conquests.\n\nMme Terry was probably Ellen Terry (1847-1928), the most famous English actress of her day, who was renowned for her Shakespeare performances.\n\nThe other names, as yet unidentified, but presumably also actresses and performers, are:\n\nInulie Gredin (possibly Grandin; first name open to interpretation)\nM. Laurent\nM. Robinson\nMarcelle Rochet (This client's name is particulary difficult to pinpoint, despite appearing on a number of designs in the volume. The name can be read alternatively as Robet, Robert, Rosbit, Rouet, etc. Rochet seems to be the most consistent reading, though.)\n\r\n- Daniel Milford-Cottam, March 2012.","historicalContext":"","briefDescription":"Jeanne Paquin. Été, 1901. Afternoon dress for Manon Loti. Cream Alençon lace with pale pink sash, shown with wide brimmed hat and parasol.","bibliographicReferences":[{"reference":{"text":"","id":""},"details":"","free":"<u>Victoria and Albert Museum Department of Prints and Drawings and Department of Paintings Accessions 1957-1958 </u> London: HMSO, 1964"}],"production":"","productionType":{"text":"","id":""},"contentDescription":"","contentPlaces":[],"associatedPlaces":[],"contentPerson":[],"associatedPerson":[],"contentOrganisations":[],"associatedOrganisations":[],"contentPeople":[],"associatedPeople":[],"contentEvents":[],"associatedEvents":[],"contentOthers":[],"contentConcepts":[],"contentLiteraryRefs":[],"galleryLabels":[],"partNumbers":["E.369-1957"],"accessionNumberNum":"369","accessionNumberPrefix":"E","accessionYear":1957,"otherNumbers":[],"copyNumber":"","aspects":["WHOLE"],"assets":[],"recordModificationDate":"2025-04-23","recordCreationDate":"2009-06-30","availableToBook":false}}