{"meta":{"version":"2.1","_links":{"self":{"href":"https://api.vam.ac.uk/v2/object/O536763"},"collection_page":{"href":"https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O536763/"}},"images":{"_primary_thumbnail":"https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2013GU0697/full/!100,100/0/default.jpg","_iiif_image":"https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2013GU0697/","_alt_iiif_image":[],"imageResolution":"low","_images_meta":[{"assetRef":"2013GU0697","copyright":"©Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false}]},"see_also":null},"record":{"systemNumber":"O536763","accessionNumber":"E.2093-1957","objectType":"Fashion design","titles":[{"title":"Zaire","type":"assigned by artist"},{"title":"Hiver 1911","type":"named collection"}],"summaryDescription":"This is one of a group of 157 sketches for dresses bound in volumes entitled Hiver 1911 (Winter 1911) from the Paris fashion house of Paquin. Founded by Jeanne Paquin (1869-1936) in 1891, Paquin was one of the most successful couture establishments at the turn of the nineteenth and twentieth centuries. Her clientele was very wide-ranging, including royalty and aristocracy from across Europe, wealthy Americans, and also actresses and singers and even courtesans such as the notorious La Belle Otero.\n\nThe vast majority of sketches show Paquin's gowns being modelled by pink-cheeked Caucasian models, which makes this design unusual in that the model is explicitly shown with a darker skintone. This is not an isolated incident, as a run of four designs for walking suits (E.2090 to 2093-1957) all show the same colouring. Many of the leading Paris couture houses provided Western fashions to an international clientele, and it is very possible that this group of designs (titled Vittoria, Zenda, Otrante, and Zaire) were drawn up for a specific client to offer an indication of how they would suit her colouring.","physicalDescription":"'Zaire'. Chocolate brown walking costume with rust accents and buttons, shown on a dark-skinned model.\r\n1 of 157 dress designs for Winter 1911 bound in volumes","artistMakerPerson":[{"name":{"text":"Jeanne Paquin","id":"A2335"},"association":{"text":"designer","id":"x36960"},"note":""}],"artistMakerOrganisations":[{"name":{"text":"Paquin Ltd","id":"A27389"},"association":{"text":"designed for","id":"x41471"},"note":""}],"artistMakerPeople":[],"materials":[{"text":"pen and ink and watercolour","id":"x32505"}],"techniques":[{"text":"watercolour drawing","id":"x37878"}],"materialsAndTechniques":"watercolour drawing","categories":[{"text":"Fashion","id":"THES48957"},{"text":"Designs","id":"THES48968"},{"text":"Womenswear","id":"THES49044"},{"text":"Clothing","id":"THES48975"},{"text":"Drawings","id":"THES48966"},{"text":"Hats & headwear","id":"THES48943"}],"styles":[],"collectionCode":{"text":"PDP","id":"THES48595"},"images":["2013GU0697"],"imageResolution":"low","galleryLocations":[{"current":{"text":"LVLE","id":"THES49657"},"free":"","case":"96","shelf":"C","box":"41"}],"partTypes":[[{"text":"designs","id":"AAT102051"}]],"contentWarnings":[{"apprise":"","note":""}],"placesOfOrigin":[{"place":{"text":"Paris","id":"x29068"},"association":{"text":"made","id":"x28654"},"note":""}],"productionDates":[{"date":{"text":"late 1911","earliest":"1911-06-01","latest":"1911-12-31"},"association":{"text":"made","id":"x28654"},"note":""}],"associatedObjects":[],"creditLine":"Given by the House of Worth","dimensions":[{"dimension":"Height","value":"45","unit":"cm","qualifier":"approx","date":{"text":"01/10/2013","earliest":"2013-10-01","latest":"2013-10-01"},"part":"page","note":""},{"dimension":"Width","value":"28.6","unit":"cm","qualifier":"approx","date":{"text":"01/10/2013","earliest":"2013-10-01","latest":"2013-10-01"},"part":"page","note":""}],"dimensionsNote":"","marksAndInscriptions":[],"objectHistory":"The dark skintone of the model in this drawing is striking. The majority of Paquin's fashion sketches are shown upon pale-skinned, pink-cheeked Caucasian models, which makes this drawing especially interesting as one of a group of 18 designs interspersed through the volumes for Winter 1911 showing darker skintones on the fashionably dressed models.\n\nThe 18 designs for Winter 1911 showing this are: E.2090 to 2093; 2100, 2101, 2103, 2105, 2108, 2111, 2113 to 2116, 2119, 2121, 2122 and 2134-1957.\n\n- Daniel Milford-Cottam, April 2014","historicalContext":"","briefDescription":"Jeanne Paquin, Hiver 1911. 'Zaire'. Chocolate brown walking costume with rust accents and buttons, shown on a dark-skinned model.\r\n1 of 157 fashion designs for Winter, 1911.","bibliographicReferences":[{"reference":{"text":"","id":""},"details":"","free":"<u>Victoria and Albert Museum Department of Prints and Drawings and Department of Paintings Accessions 1957-1958 </u> London: HMSO, 1964"}],"production":"","productionType":{"text":"","id":""},"contentDescription":"","contentPlaces":[],"associatedPlaces":[],"contentPerson":[],"associatedPerson":[],"contentOrganisations":[],"associatedOrganisations":[],"contentPeople":[],"associatedPeople":[],"contentEvents":[],"associatedEvents":[],"contentOthers":[],"contentConcepts":[],"contentLiteraryRefs":[],"galleryLabels":[],"partNumbers":["E.2093-1957"],"accessionNumberNum":"2093","accessionNumberPrefix":"E","accessionYear":1957,"otherNumbers":[],"copyNumber":"","aspects":["WHOLE"],"assets":[],"recordModificationDate":"2025-04-23","recordCreationDate":"2009-06-30","availableToBook":false}}