{"meta":{"version":"2.1","_links":{"self":{"href":"https://api.vam.ac.uk/v2/object/O498903"},"collection_page":{"href":"https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O498903/"}},"images":{"_primary_thumbnail":"https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2021NC0918/full/!100,100/0/default.jpg","_iiif_image":"https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2021NC0918/","_alt_iiif_image":[],"imageResolution":"high","_images_meta":[{"assetRef":"2021NC0918","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London ","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2021NC0924","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London ","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2021NC0923","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London ","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2021NC0922","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London ","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2021NC0920","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London ","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2021NC0921","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London ","sensitiveImage":false}]},"see_also":{"_iiif_pres":"https://iiif.vam.ac.uk/collections/O498903/manifest.json","_alt_iiif_pres":[]}},"record":{"systemNumber":"O498903","accessionNumber":"T.210-1948","objectType":"Woman's jacket","titles":[{"title":"magua","type":"generic title"}],"summaryDescription":"This type of riding jacket (<i>magua</i>) was introduced into the informal wardrobe of both men and women in the mid-19th century. The vivid yellow cuffs of this predominantly dark-blue jacket for a Manchu woman might look like a strong fashion statement. In fact, the choice of colour for the fabrics was determined by the rank and age of the wearer. The bright yellow seen in this example was the prerogative of the empress dowager and the empress, while deep blue was customarily worn by elderly women or widows. The subtly orchestrated butterfly patterns on the main body, woven in gold and silver threads on a dark blue ground, were particularly popular among older women. \nThe ‘one hundred-butterflies’ design symbolised the desire for long life, as the word for 'butterfly' (<i>die</i>) is homophonous with another Chinese word meaning 'eighty years of age'. The metallic threads used to weave this jacket are extremely fine, less than 0.25 mm in thickness, made from gilt-paper wrapped round a red silk core or silvered-paper wrapped round a white silk core. By contrast, the fluttering butterflies shown on the yellow cuff have added painted details and shading to enliven the colour -- a cost-cutting method that was regularly incorporated into tapestry silk in the late 19th century.\nFour gilt-brass buttons secured with black satin loops adorn the central front opening. Each bears a winged lion design on the front, the maker’s mark 'T.W. &amp; W' and a quality mark 'DOUBLE GILT' encircling the shank on the back. These marks indicate that the buttons were made by Trelon, Weldon, &amp; Weil, a company founded in Paris in 1845, and that the buttons were gilt twice. ","physicalDescription":"Woman's jacket (<i>magua)</i> of silk tapestry (<i>kesi</i>), featuring a round neckline, striaght and wide sleeves seamed under-arm, side vents, a central front opening and seamed on central back. Fastened with one pair of black satin loop-and-knot button and four gilt brass buttons, with figure of a winged lion on the obverse, inscription of 'Double gilt' and 'T.W. & W' surrounding the shank on the reverse. The main body is decorated with butterflies woven in gold and silver metallic threads on dark blue ground. Neckline and edgings along the hem and vents are trimmed with wide borders of black satin embroidered with plum blossom in white, blue, yellow and beige silks in satin stitch, and a woven ribbon patterned with butterflies and lotus flowers. Lined with pink silk.","artistMakerPerson":[{"name":{"text":"Unknown","id":"A1848"},"association":{"text":"","id":""},"note":""}],"artistMakerOrganisations":[],"artistMakerPeople":[],"materials":[{"text":"silk textile","id":"AAT243428"},{"text":"silk thread","id":"x30127"},{"text":"brass","id":"AAT10946"},{"text":"metallic thread","id":"x30416"}],"techniques":[{"text":"tapestry weave","id":"AAT61981"},{"text":"embroidering","id":"AAT53653"},{"text":"gilding","id":"AAT53789"}],"materialsAndTechniques":"Tapestry-weave silk (<i>kesi</i>) and metallic threads; embroidery in silk threads; gilt brass","categories":[{"text":"Textiles","id":"THES48885"},{"text":"Clothing","id":"THES48975"},{"text":"Womenswear","id":"THES49044"}],"styles":[{"text":"qing","id":"AAT18478"}],"collectionCode":{"text":"EAS","id":"THES48596"},"images":["2021NC0918","2021NC0924","2021NC0923","2021NC0922","2021NC0920","2021NC0921"],"imageResolution":"high","galleryLocations":[{"current":{"text":"005","id":"THES394746"},"free":"","case":"","shelf":"","box":""}],"partTypes":[[{"text":"Jacket","id":""}]],"contentWarnings":[{"apprise":"","note":""}],"placesOfOrigin":[{"place":{"text":"China","id":"x29398"},"association":{"text":"made","id":"x28654"},"note":""}],"productionDates":[{"date":{"text":"1850-1865","earliest":"1850-01-01","latest":"1865-12-31"},"association":{"text":"made","id":"x28654"},"note":""}],"associatedObjects":[],"creditLine":"Purchased with Art Fund support","dimensions":[{"dimension":"Length","value":"73.3","unit":"cm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"","note":""},{"dimension":"Width","value":"179","unit":"cm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"sleeve to sleeve","note":""}],"dimensionsNote":"","marksAndInscriptions":[{"content":"'Double gilt' and 'T.W. & W' surrounding the shank on reverse","inscriber":{"name":{"text":"","id":""},"association":{"text":"","id":""}},"date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"description":"","interpretation":"","language":"","medium":"","method":"","position":"","script":"","translation":"","transliteration":"","type":"","note":"Trelon, Weldon, & Weil, button makers, founded in 1845, address: Rue de Berey, St. Antoine, Paris"},{"content":"Figure of a winged lion on obverse","inscriber":{"name":{"text":"","id":""},"association":{"text":"","id":""}},"date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"description":"","interpretation":"","language":"","medium":"","method":"","position":"","script":"","translation":"","transliteration":"","type":"","note":""}],"objectHistory":"Registered File number 1947/374. From the collection of Bernard Vuilleumier.","historicalContext":"","briefDescription":"Jacket for a Manchu woman (<i>magua</i>), tapestry-weave silk (kesi ) and metallic threads; embroidery in silk threads; gilt brass, China, Qing dynasty (1644-1911), 1850-65","bibliographicReferences":[],"production":"","productionType":{"text":"","id":""},"contentDescription":"","contentPlaces":[],"associatedPlaces":[],"contentPerson":[],"associatedPerson":[],"contentOrganisations":[],"associatedOrganisations":[],"contentPeople":[],"associatedPeople":[],"contentEvents":[],"associatedEvents":[],"contentOthers":[],"contentConcepts":[],"contentLiteraryRefs":[],"galleryLabels":[],"partNumbers":["T.210-1948"],"accessionNumberNum":"210","accessionNumberPrefix":"T","accessionYear":1948,"otherNumbers":[],"copyNumber":"","aspects":["WHOLE"],"assets":[],"recordModificationDate":"2026-01-30","recordCreationDate":"2009-06-25","availableToBook":false}}