{"meta":{"version":"2.1","_links":{"self":{"href":"https://api.vam.ac.uk/v2/object/O364268"},"collection_page":{"href":"https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O364268/"}},"images":{"_primary_thumbnail":"https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2019LK9281/full/!100,100/0/default.jpg","_iiif_image":"https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2019LK9281/","_alt_iiif_image":[],"imageResolution":"high","_images_meta":[{"assetRef":"2019LK9281","copyright":"©Victoria & Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2019LV4386","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2011ER5743","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false}]},"see_also":{"_iiif_pres":"https://iiif.vam.ac.uk/collections/O364268/manifest.json","_alt_iiif_pres":[]}},"record":{"systemNumber":"O364268","accessionNumber":"T.268-1921","objectType":"Woven silk","titles":[],"summaryDescription":"","physicalDescription":"This satin is an example of a patterned silk the kind of which begun to be woven in Europe in the first half of the 18th century, in a manner then known as <i>chiné</i> (in England they were called ‘clouded lustrings’). The term <i>chiné</i> indicates the probable Chinese origin; it is almost, but not quite, synonymous with ikat (technique of Indonesian origin where tie-dying of the threads precedes the weaving). In <i>chiné</i>, the warp ends are stretched on a special frame, handled and bound in small groups (branches), dyed according to the desired pattern and then transferred (mounted) onto the loom. This provided the possibility of creating coloured patterns without using supplementary warps and wefts, resulting with considerable savings in the amount of silk required. The silk fabrics patterned by using this complex technique were taffeta, satins, twills, velvets and <i>pékins</i> (with their grounds plain, striped or chequered) and are easily recognized by the characteristic, softened, undefined outlines and shaded colours of their decorative elements. <i>Chinés</i> were particularly sought after not only for the originality of their patterns or for their resemblance to the East Asian fabrics from which they were inspired, but also because of their elegance and lightness which made them ideal for women’s clothing of the period (for summer dresses in particular). Despite being light and apparently simple, <i>chinés</i> were nevertheless far from cheap, essentially because of the slow and delicate warp preparation phase. Their price increased with the complexity of their patterns which could comprise meanders or floral garlands and festoons. This example combines V-shaped geometric elements - rather commonly found in simpler chinés - and excessively stylized, large pink flowers, achieved in blue, green, purple, yellow and shades of red on a white ground. Most chiné silks - especially those of larger and more elaborate patterns - are today generally attributed to France, where there popularity resulted in their inclusion  in the <i>Encyclopédie</i> where the technique was described under the heading<i> Soierie, Chiner des Etoffés. </i>However, <i>chinés</i> were also produced in other European silk centers, primarily in the Italian ones, where this example was possibly made.","artistMakerPerson":[],"artistMakerOrganisations":[],"artistMakerPeople":[],"materials":[{"text":"silk (fiber)","id":"AAT14072"},{"text":"","id":""},{"text":"","id":""}],"techniques":[{"text":"chine","id":"AAT53051"},{"text":"","id":""}],"materialsAndTechniques":"","categories":[{"text":"Textiles","id":"THES48885"}],"styles":[],"collectionCode":{"text":"T&F","id":"THES48601"},"images":["2019LK9281","2019LV4386","2011ER5743"],"imageResolution":"high","galleryLocations":[{"current":{"text":"004","id":"THES310799"},"free":"","case":"","shelf":"","box":""}],"partTypes":[[{"text":"Woven silk","id":""}]],"contentWarnings":[{"apprise":"","note":""}],"placesOfOrigin":[{"place":{"text":"Italy","id":"x28927"},"association":{"text":"","id":""},"note":"probably (acquired in Italy)"}],"productionDates":[{"date":{"text":"1750-1800","earliest":"1750-01-01","latest":"1800-12-31"},"association":{"text":"made","id":"x28654"},"note":""}],"associatedObjects":[],"creditLine":"","dimensions":[{"dimension":"Length","value":"16","unit":"cm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"","note":"Approx. lenght of the pattern repeat"},{"dimension":"Width","value":"63","unit":"cm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"","note":""},{"dimension":"Width","value":"11","unit":"cm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"","note":"Approx. pattern repeat width"},{"dimension":"Length","value":"65","unit":"cm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"","note":"Length of the panel"}],"dimensionsNote":"","marksAndInscriptions":[],"objectHistory":"Given by Sydney Vacher, Esq.","historicalContext":"","briefDescription":"<i>chiné</i> silk satin, 1750-1800, Italian","bibliographicReferences":[{"reference":{"text":"Miller, Lesley Ellis, and Ana Cabrera Lafuente, with Claire Allen-Johnstone, eds. <u>Silk: Fibre, Fabric and Fashion</u>. London: Thames & Hudson Ltd in association with the Victoria and Albert Museum, 2021. ISBN 978-0-500-48065-6.","id":"AUTH389403"},"details":"p.323","free":""}],"production":"","productionType":{"text":"","id":""},"contentDescription":"","contentPlaces":[],"associatedPlaces":[],"contentPerson":[],"associatedPerson":[],"contentOrganisations":[],"associatedOrganisations":[],"contentPeople":[],"associatedPeople":[],"contentEvents":[],"associatedEvents":[],"contentOthers":[],"contentConcepts":[],"contentLiteraryRefs":[],"galleryLabels":[],"partNumbers":["T.268-1921"],"accessionNumberNum":"268","accessionNumberPrefix":"T","accessionYear":1921,"otherNumbers":[],"copyNumber":"","aspects":["WHOLE"],"assets":[],"recordModificationDate":"2025-04-22","recordCreationDate":"2009-06-24","availableToBook":true}}