{"meta":{"version":"2.1","_links":{"self":{"href":"https://api.vam.ac.uk/v2/object/O33838"},"collection_page":{"href":"https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O33838/"}},"images":{"_primary_thumbnail":"https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2006AT8184/full/!100,100/0/default.jpg","_iiif_image":"https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2006AT8184/","_alt_iiif_image":[],"imageResolution":"high","_images_meta":[{"assetRef":"2006AT8184","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2012FR8504","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false}]},"see_also":{"_iiif_pres":"https://iiif.vam.ac.uk/collections/O33838/manifest.json","_alt_iiif_pres":[]}},"record":{"systemNumber":"O33838","accessionNumber":"IS.434-1897","objectType":"Skirt cloth","titles":[],"summaryDescription":"Patterned cloth such as this was produced in southern India and used for trade with Indonesia in the 19th century. Dyes made from a variety of plants, animals and insects made Indian textiles particularly rich in pattern and colouring. The most important dyes were indigo, chay and madder red. Chay was widely used in southern India and was extracted from the roots of the chay plant (<i>Oldenlandia umbellate</i>). Cloth was first treated with alum -– a mordant that combines with a dye to fix it in a material – and then received the chay dye to produce a rich and fast red. The cloth was also resist dyed, which involves applying an impermeable substance (usually wax) to all the areas not to be dyed with a particular colour (in this case indigo) so that those areas remain undyed. The resist is then removed with hot water. The pattern of this cloth, with its distinct ‘knife-edge’ design at the edges, signifies that it was a skirt cloth.","physicalDescription":"Skirt cloth, red white and blue floral pattern.","artistMakerPerson":[{"name":{"text":"Unknown","id":"A1848"},"association":{"text":"","id":""},"note":""}],"artistMakerOrganisations":[],"artistMakerPeople":[],"materials":[{"text":"cotton","id":"AAT14067"}],"techniques":[{"text":"painted","id":"x30138"},{"text":"resist dyeing","id":"AAT53053"}],"materialsAndTechniques":"Cotton, painted mordant-dyed and drawn resist-dyed","categories":[{"text":"Textiles","id":"THES48885"},{"text":"Images Online","id":"THES48937"}],"styles":[],"collectionCode":{"text":"SSEA","id":"THES48598"},"images":["2006AT8184","2012FR8504"],"imageResolution":"high","galleryLocations":[{"current":{"text":"006","id":"THES312680"},"free":"","case":"","shelf":"","box":""}],"partTypes":[[{"text":"Textile","id":""}]],"contentWarnings":[{"apprise":"","note":""}],"placesOfOrigin":[{"place":{"text":"Andhra Pradesh","id":"x29820"},"association":{"text":"made","id":"x28654"},"note":"possibly"},{"place":{"text":"Tamil Nadu","id":"x29843"},"association":{"text":"made","id":"x28654"},"note":"possibly"}],"productionDates":[{"date":{"text":"late 19th century","earliest":"1850-01-01","latest":"1900-12-31"},"association":{"text":"made","id":"x28654"},"note":""}],"associatedObjects":[],"creditLine":"Purchased from Ralph Nevill, Esq., 89 Chancery Lane","dimensions":[{"dimension":"Length","value":"73","unit":"cm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"incomplete","note":""},{"dimension":"Width","value":"52","unit":"cm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"incomplete","note":""}],"dimensionsNote":"","marksAndInscriptions":[],"objectHistory":"260 objects from the collection of Hugh L Nevill (1847-1897) were purchased from his brother Ralph Nevill Esq for £75 in 1897. Hugh Nevill was a British civil servant who served in Ceylon (now Sri Lanka) between 1869 and 1888. During his service, he developed an interest in Sri Lankan culture and history assembled a diverse collection of Sri Lankan items including palm leaf manuscripts (now in the British Library), jewellery, bronzes and stones from c. 1865 to 1897. Upon his death, his collection of mainly religious material, ethnographic objects and art metalwork was purchased through his brother by various museums. Sixty items were purchased by the Dublin Museum of Science and Art (National Museum of Ireland), 207 by the Edinburgh Museum of Science and Art (National Museum of Scotland) and 260 by the South Kensington Museum.\r\n\r\n\r\nPurchased from Ralph Nevill, Esq., 89 Chancery Lane. This acquisition information reflects that found in the Museum records (Asia Department registers and/or Central Inventory) as part of a 2023 provenance research project.\r\n\r\nRP: 1054840/97","historicalContext":"","briefDescription":"Kain sembagi, skirt cloth.  Tamilnadu, for the Javanese market.  Late 19th century.  Cotton painted mordant-dyed and drawn resist-dyed.","bibliographicReferences":[{"reference":{"text":"Guy, J. \"Woven Cargoes. Indian Textiles in the East\", London, 1998","id":"AUTH326899"},"details":"p. 28, pl. 29","free":""}],"production":"","productionType":{"text":"","id":""},"contentDescription":"","contentPlaces":[],"associatedPlaces":[],"contentPerson":[],"associatedPerson":[],"contentOrganisations":[],"associatedOrganisations":[],"contentPeople":[],"associatedPeople":[],"contentEvents":[],"associatedEvents":[],"contentOthers":[{"text":"flower","id":"AAT10135"}],"contentConcepts":[],"contentLiteraryRefs":[],"galleryLabels":[],"partNumbers":["IS.434-1897"],"accessionNumberNum":"434","accessionNumberPrefix":"IS","accessionYear":1897,"otherNumbers":[],"copyNumber":"","aspects":["WHOLE"],"assets":[],"recordModificationDate":"2025-04-22","recordCreationDate":"2000-03-13","availableToBook":true}}