{"meta":{"version":"2.1","_links":{"self":{"href":"https://api.vam.ac.uk/v2/object/O318882"},"collection_page":{"href":"https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O318882/"}},"images":{"_primary_thumbnail":"https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2015HR2053/full/!100,100/0/default.jpg","_iiif_image":"https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2015HR2053/","_alt_iiif_image":[],"imageResolution":"low","_images_meta":[{"assetRef":"2015HR2053","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2015HR2054","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2017JU0495","copyright":"©Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false}]},"see_also":null},"record":{"systemNumber":"O318882","accessionNumber":"T.113-1925","objectType":"Gown","titles":[],"summaryDescription":"","physicalDescription":"A woman's gown and petticoat of muslin, block-printed in a  liliy-of-the-valley pattern with hand-painting in blue, and a separate piece of the dress fabric.  The gown is open at the front with shaped elbow-length sleeves.  The bodice and skirt are cut separately and stitched together.  The bodice back is cut in 4 shaped pieces, tapering to a point at centre back below the waist.  The bodice fronts and 2 pieces of the back are lined with bleached linen and stitched together; the sleeves are also lined with bleached linen. A casing of narrow linen tape is stitched to the bodice fronts.  The skirt is made of 3 widths of muslin, very finely flat-pleated into the waist seam.  \nThere are bound pocket openings on either side.\n\nThe petticoat is made of 2 widths of muslin, with 2 partial widths \n\nThe ensemble has been extensively altered for fancy dress in the late 19th century.  The bodice and skirt was unpicked, the bodice taken in at the side seams with machine stitching, and the skirt re-attached.  The sleeves were partially unpicked and a tuck taken to make the smaller.  Hooks and eyes were added to the bodice fronts, boning to the right front and a new drawstring at the neck casing.  A bone was added to the inside  centre back, over a cotton waist tape. Machine-embroidered net ruffles were added to the sleeves.  Machine sewing on the petticoat indicates that it was pieced at the back and the back seam resewn.  The original tape binding at the waist was unpicked, the pleats altered and the waist re-bound, losing the right side pocket opening.  A facing of cotton was added at the hem.","artistMakerPerson":[],"artistMakerOrganisations":[{"name":{"text":"Brown & Co","id":"A39467"},"association":{"text":"retailed by","id":"x40242"},"note":"fabric"}],"artistMakerPeople":[],"materials":[{"text":"cotton (textile)","id":"AAT14067"},{"text":"linen (material)","id":"AAT14069"},{"text":"linen thread","id":"x35336"}],"techniques":[{"text":"hand weaving","id":"AAT53643"},{"text":"block printing","id":"AAT53289"},{"text":"painting","id":"x30598"},{"text":"hand sewing","id":"AAT257459"}],"materialsAndTechniques":"Cotton, linen, linen thread; hand-woven, block-printed,hand-painted, hand-sewn","categories":[{"text":"Fashion","id":"THES48957"},{"text":"Clothing","id":"THES48975"},{"text":"Day wear","id":"THES49000"},{"text":"Textiles","id":"THES48885"},{"text":"Shopping","id":"THES48895"},{"text":"Womenswear","id":"THES49044"},{"text":"Informal wear","id":"THES48935"},{"text":"Europeana Fashion Project","id":"THES265804"}],"styles":[],"collectionCode":{"text":"T&F","id":"THES48601"},"images":["2015HR2053","2015HR2054","2017JU0495"],"imageResolution":"low","galleryLocations":[{"current":{"text":"011","id":"THES307031"},"free":"","case":"","shelf":"","box":""},{"current":{"text":"011","id":"THES307031"},"free":"","case":"","shelf":"","box":""},{"current":{"text":"002","id":"THES404990"},"free":"","case":"","shelf":"","box":""}],"partTypes":[[{"text":"gowns","id":"AAT46161"}],[{"text":"petticoats","id":"AAT209927"}],[{"text":"Dress fabric","id":"x40573"}]],"contentWarnings":[{"apprise":"","note":""},{"apprise":"","note":""},{"apprise":"","note":""},{"apprise":"","note":""}],"placesOfOrigin":[{"place":{"text":"India","id":"x29790"},"association":{"text":"woven","id":"AAT53642"},"note":"probably"},{"place":{"text":"England","id":"x28826"},"association":{"text":"printed","id":"x46159"},"note":"probably"},{"place":{"text":"London","id":"x28980"},"association":{"text":"sold","id":"x34778"},"note":"finished material"},{"place":{"text":"England","id":"x28826"},"association":{"text":"sewing","id":"AAT53658"},"note":"gown & petticoat"}],"productionDates":[{"date":{"text":"1770 - 1790","earliest":"1770-01-01","latest":"1790-12-31"},"association":{"text":"block printing","id":"AAT53289"},"note":"textile"},{"date":{"text":"1780s","earliest":"1780-01-01","latest":"1789-12-31"},"association":{"text":"sewing","id":"AAT53658"},"note":"gown & petticoat"},{"date":{"text":"1870 - 1910","earliest":"1870-01-01","latest":"1910-12-31"},"association":{"text":"altered","id":"AAT105442"},"note":"gown & petticoat for fancy dress"}],"associatedObjects":[{"object":{"text":"CIRC.540-1925","id":"O259547"},"association":"Part"}],"creditLine":"Given by Mrs Emily Ford","dimensions":[{"dimension":"Width","value":"104.5","unit":"cm","qualifier":"approx","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"muslin, selvedge to selvedge","note":""}],"dimensionsNote":"","marksAndInscriptions":[{"content":"BROWN & Co\r\nLONDON\r\nFOREIGN MUSLIN not more than 3 shillings per YARD.","inscriber":{"name":{"text":"","id":""},"association":{"text":"","id":""}},"date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"description":"","interpretation":"","language":"","medium":"","method":"","position":"","script":"","translation":"","transliteration":"","type":"","note":"Stamped on edge of fragment of dress fabric, T.113B-1925"},{"content":"FOREIGN MUSLINS CHARGED AT 10D. GR","inscriber":{"name":{"text":"","id":""},"association":{"text":"","id":""}},"date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"description":"","interpretation":"","language":"","medium":"","method":"","position":"","script":"","translation":"","transliteration":"","type":"","note":"Customs stamp along bottom  edge of fragment of dress fabric, T.113B-1925"}],"objectHistory":"Another piece of the dress material was acquired by Circulation Department (see CIRC.540-1925), this fragment does not have the stamps that the other one does.","historicalContext":"Example of a dress made from imported muslin. The fabric was probably printed in England after import.","briefDescription":"A woman's gown, petticoat and a piece of matching dress fabric, 1780s, English; Block-printed muslin, liliy-of-the-valley pattern, English, 1770-90, Brown & Co; altered 1870-1910","bibliographicReferences":[],"production":"Brown & Co, whose trade stamp is on a piece of the dress material donated at the same time, may be Messrs. Brown, Rogers & Co, Wholesale Linen Drapers of 157, Cheapside, as per their address in a 1799 London Directory.","productionType":{"text":"Unique","id":"THES48864"},"contentDescription":"","contentPlaces":[],"associatedPlaces":[],"contentPerson":[],"associatedPerson":[],"contentOrganisations":[],"associatedOrganisations":[],"contentPeople":[],"associatedPeople":[],"contentEvents":[],"associatedEvents":[],"contentOthers":[{"text":"lily of the valley","id":"x37385"}],"contentConcepts":[],"contentLiteraryRefs":[],"galleryLabels":[],"partNumbers":["T.113-1925","T.113A-1925","T.113B-1925"],"accessionNumberNum":"113","accessionNumberPrefix":"T","accessionYear":1925,"otherNumbers":[],"copyNumber":"","aspects":["WHOLE","Gown","Petticoat","Dress fabric"],"assets":[],"recordModificationDate":"2026-01-05","recordCreationDate":"2009-06-24","availableToBook":false}}