{"meta":{"version":"2.1","_links":{"self":{"href":"https://api.vam.ac.uk/v2/object/O317153"},"collection_page":{"href":"https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O317153/"}},"images":{"_primary_thumbnail":"https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2006AF4303/full/!100,100/0/default.jpg","_iiif_image":"https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2006AF4303/","_alt_iiif_image":[],"imageResolution":"high","_images_meta":[{"assetRef":"2006AF4303","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2010EG9676","copyright":"©Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false}]},"see_also":{"_iiif_pres":"https://iiif.vam.ac.uk/collections/O317153/manifest.json","_alt_iiif_pres":[]}},"record":{"systemNumber":"O317153","accessionNumber":"252&A-1902","objectType":"Waistcoat part","titles":[],"summaryDescription":"These panels of unfinished blackwork shows how embroidered garments were made in the early 17th century.  The shapes for the fronts and sleeves of a woman's waistcoat.  has been drawn in pen and ink on linen, with the design for their embroidery.  The linen would have been secured in a frame to hold it taut while the embroidery was done.   Once completed, the shapes would have been cut out by a tailor and sewn together. The very short waist of the fronts and close-fitting shape of the sleeves suggest a date between 1619 and 1625.\r\n\r\nBlackwork was a style of needlework popular in England in the late 16th and early 17th centuries.  It was worked with a single colour of silk, usually black, as on this panel,  but also sometimes blue, red or green, on linen.  The pattern of flowers, birds and insects is characteristic of embroidery of this period, inspired by herbals and other popular books on the natural world.  The style of embroidery uses speckling stitch, comprised of tiny running stitches arranged to give a shaded effect.  Blackwork in speckling stitch imitates the graphic method used in woodblock prints to create three-dimensional shapes.","physicalDescription":"Uncut  and unfinished sleeves and fronts for a woman's waistcoat on 2 panels of fine bleached linen embroidered in black silk floss.  The ink-drawn pattern of scrolling stems bearing tulips, acorns, pansies and roses, with birds and insects is visible. The fillings of speckling stitch have been worked, but not the outlines of the shapes.","artistMakerPerson":[{"name":{"text":"Pierrepont, Mary","id":"A35721"},"association":{"text":"embroiderers","id":"AAT25352"},"note":""}],"artistMakerOrganisations":[],"artistMakerPeople":[],"materials":[{"text":"linen (material)","id":"AAT14069"},{"text":"silk thread","id":"x30127"}],"techniques":[{"text":"embroidering","id":"AAT53653"}],"materialsAndTechniques":"Linen, silk, ink; hand-woven, hand-drawn, hand-embroidered","categories":[{"text":"Womenswear","id":"THES49044"},{"text":"Fashion","id":"THES48957"},{"text":"Embroidery","id":"THES48960"},{"text":"Europeana Fashion Project","id":"THES265804"}],"styles":[{"text":"Jacobean","id":"AAT107014"}],"collectionCode":{"text":"T&F","id":"THES48601"},"images":["2006AF4303","2010EG9676"],"imageResolution":"high","galleryLocations":[{"current":{"text":"002","id":"THES310160"},"free":"","case":"","shelf":"","box":""},{"current":{"text":"002","id":"THES310160"},"free":"","case":"","shelf":"","box":""}],"partTypes":[[{"text":"Waistcoat fronts","id":""}],[{"text":"Waistcoat sleeves","id":""}]],"contentWarnings":[{"apprise":"","note":""}],"placesOfOrigin":[{"place":{"text":"England","id":"x28826"},"association":{"text":"made","id":"x28654"},"note":""}],"productionDates":[{"date":{"text":"1619-1625","earliest":"1619-01-01","latest":"1625-12-31"},"association":{"text":"made","id":"x28654"},"note":""}],"associatedObjects":[],"creditLine":"","dimensions":[{"dimension":"Length","value":"36.6","unit":"cm","qualifier":"approx.","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"linen panel","note":"252A-1902"},{"dimension":"Width","value":"64.0","unit":"cm","qualifier":"approx.","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"linen panel","note":"252A-1902"},{"dimension":"Length","value":"32.5","unit":"cm","qualifier":"approx.","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"jacket front","note":"252A-1902"},{"dimension":"Height","value":"56","unit":"cm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"sleeve end","note":"252-1902"},{"dimension":"Width","value":"20","unit":"cm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"cuff","note":"252-1902"}],"dimensionsNote":"","marksAndInscriptions":[],"objectHistory":"Said to have been worked by Mary, daughter of Sir Henry Pierrepont (sister of the Earl of Kingston), who married Fulk Cartwright of Ossington in 1606.\r\n\r\nPurchased. Registered File number 3721-1902. For report by Mr Walter Crane, see RP. 1421/1902, 80090/1902.","historicalContext":"","briefDescription":"Uncut fronts and sleeves of a woman's waistcoat of linen blackwork, 1619-1625, British; speckling","bibliographicReferences":[{"reference":{"text":"","id":""},"details":"","free":"Nevinson, John Lea, <u>Catalogue of English Domestic Embroidery of the Sixteenth & Seventeenth Centuries</u>, Victoria and Albert Museum, Department of Textiles, London: HMSO, 1938, p.80"},{"reference":{"text":"","id":""},"details":"","free":"Patterson, Angus, <u>Fashion and Armour in Renaissance Europe: Proud Lookes and Brave Attire</u>, V&A Publishing, London, 2009, ISBN  9781851775811, p. 55, ill."}],"production":"","productionType":{"text":"","id":""},"contentDescription":"","contentPlaces":[],"associatedPlaces":[],"contentPerson":[],"associatedPerson":[],"contentOrganisations":[],"associatedOrganisations":[],"contentPeople":[],"associatedPeople":[],"contentEvents":[],"associatedEvents":[],"contentOthers":[{"text":"acorns","id":"x30276"},{"text":"pansies (flower)","id":"x30496"},{"text":"tulips","id":"x35467"},{"text":"moths","id":"x40720"},{"text":"ants","id":"x39973"},{"text":"birds","id":"x35043"}],"contentConcepts":[],"contentLiteraryRefs":[],"galleryLabels":[],"partNumbers":["252A-1902","252-1902"],"accessionNumberNum":"252","accessionNumberPrefix":"","accessionYear":1902,"otherNumbers":[],"copyNumber":"","aspects":["WHOLE"],"assets":[],"recordModificationDate":"2026-03-02","recordCreationDate":"2009-06-24","availableToBook":true}}