{"meta":{"version":"2.1","_links":{"self":{"href":"https://api.vam.ac.uk/v2/object/O285115"},"collection_page":{"href":"https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O285115/"}},"images":null,"see_also":null},"record":{"systemNumber":"O285115","accessionNumber":"T.400-1972","objectType":"Design","titles":[],"summaryDescription":"This design is a preparatory technical drawing for a patterned silk. It acted as instructions for the weaver about how to tie up the threads on the loom and then weave in the pattern. It belongs to an archive of similar designs commissioned by a silk manufacturing partnership active in Lyon — the most prestigious centre of the silk industry in Europe from the 1660s onwards — and corresponds in style to the 1760s when patterns were curvaceous. The partnership was called L. Galy, Gallien et cie from 1761 until the beginning of 1771 and it was one of Lyon’s 400 manufacturing concerns mid-century. It kept good records, noting on the back of the designs the number of the design and minimal instructions on how it should be woven.\r\n\r\nThis design was for a patterned silk with a plain background, approximately 54 centimetres wide. It would have had this motif repeated across the width at least twice. In Lyon, manufacturing regulations dictated the widths in which such silks might be woven.","physicalDescription":"<i>Mise-en-carte</i> or draft, in watercolour on ruled paper (engraved copper plate used for impression). Red lace meanders, stripes, and flowers","artistMakerPerson":[{"name":{"text":"Unknown","id":"A1848"},"association":{"text":"","id":""},"note":"The owner of the design is known but not the maker."}],"artistMakerOrganisations":[],"artistMakerPeople":[],"materials":[{"text":"paper","id":"x30308"}],"techniques":[{"text":"painting","id":"x30598"},{"text":"engraving","id":"AAT190531"}],"materialsAndTechniques":"Engraved rule paper, painted in gouache","categories":[{"text":"Textiles","id":"THES48885"}],"styles":[{"text":"Rococo","id":"AAT21155"}],"collectionCode":{"text":"PDP","id":"THES48595"},"images":[],"imageResolution":"high","galleryLocations":[{"current":{"text":"LVLC (VA)","id":"THES49171"},"free":"","case":"3H","shelf":"18","box":""}],"partTypes":[[{"text":"designs","id":"AAT102051"}]],"contentWarnings":[{"apprise":"","note":""}],"placesOfOrigin":[{"place":{"text":"Lyon","id":"x29500"},"association":{"text":"Designed and made","id":"x39722"},"note":""}],"productionDates":[{"date":{"text":"1761","earliest":"1761-01-01","latest":"1761-12-31"},"association":{"text":"Designed and made","id":"x39722"},"note":""}],"associatedObjects":[],"creditLine":"","dimensions":[{"dimension":"Height","value":"37.2","unit":"cm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"","note":""},{"dimension":"Width","value":"52.8","unit":"cm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"","note":""}],"dimensionsNote":"","marksAndInscriptions":[{"content":"L. Galy Gallien et Cie, 19 S[eptem] 1761\r\nNo. 615 Taff [eta] en Soye B[roch]e Cordonnet nue 35 dix[ain]es à Répétition","inscriber":{"name":{"text":"","id":""},"association":{"text":"","id":""}},"date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"description":"","interpretation":"","language":"","medium":"","method":"","position":"","script":"","translation":"Silk taffeta brocaded with coloured silk frisé 35 dezines in the repeat","transliteration":"","type":"","note":"There follow instructions for combining the colours of the weft into six lashes on the loom. The fifth shoot contains five different colours."}],"objectHistory":"","historicalContext":"","briefDescription":"for woven silk, 1761, French; Galy Gallien, red lace meanders, stripes, flowers","bibliographicReferences":[{"reference":{"text":"","id":""},"details":"","free":"Natalie Rothstein. <i>Silk Designs of the Eighteenth Century. In the Collection of the Victoria and Albert Museum, London</i>, London, 1990, p.249."},{"reference":{"text":"","id":""},"details":"","free":"Lesley Ellis Miller, 'Mysterious Manufacturers: Situating L. Galy, Gallien et Compe. in the Eighteenth-Century Lyons Silk Industry', <i>Studies in the Decorative Arts</i>, Vol. IX:2, Spring-summer 2002, p. 90"}],"production":"Attribution note: These designs were painted by a designer who was conversant with the weaving process. Each space between the lines represents groups of warp (vertical) and weft (horizontal) threads.","productionType":{"text":"Design","id":"THES48872"},"contentDescription":"","contentPlaces":[],"associatedPlaces":[],"contentPerson":[],"associatedPerson":[],"contentOrganisations":[],"associatedOrganisations":[],"contentPeople":[],"associatedPeople":[],"contentEvents":[],"associatedEvents":[],"contentOthers":[{"text":"flowers","id":"x35571"},{"text":"lace","id":"AAT132861"},{"text":"stripes","id":"AAT10230"}],"contentConcepts":[],"contentLiteraryRefs":[],"galleryLabels":[],"partNumbers":["T.400-1972"],"accessionNumberNum":"400","accessionNumberPrefix":"T","accessionYear":1972,"otherNumbers":[],"copyNumber":"","aspects":["WHOLE"],"assets":[],"recordModificationDate":"2025-05-07","recordCreationDate":"2009-06-24","availableToBook":false}}