{"meta":{"version":"2.1","_links":{"self":{"href":"https://api.vam.ac.uk/v2/object/O285114"},"collection_page":{"href":"https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O285114/"}},"images":null,"see_also":null},"record":{"systemNumber":"O285114","accessionNumber":"T.401-1972","objectType":"Design","titles":[],"summaryDescription":"This design is a preparatory technical drawing for a patterned silk. It belongs to a group  commissioned by a silk manufacturing partnership active in Lyon, the most prestigious centre of the silk industry in Europe from the 1660s onwards. The partnership was called L. Galy, Gallien et cie from 1761 until the beginning of 1771 and it was one of Lyon's 400 manufacturing concerns mid-century. It kept good records, noting on the back of the designs the number of the design and minimal instructions on how it should be woven.\r\n\r\nThis design was for a patterned silk with a satin background, approximately 54 centimetres wide. It would have had this motif repeated across the width at least twice. In Lyon, manufacturing regulations dictated the widths in which such silks might be woven.","physicalDescription":"<i>Mise-en-carte</i> or draft, painted in gouache on graph paper '8 en 12', stripes and flowers. On the back is the name of the firm, the date, the number of the design and the name of the fabric for which it was intended as well as a key to the colours.","artistMakerPerson":[{"name":{"text":"Unknown","id":"A1848"},"association":{"text":"","id":""},"note":""}],"artistMakerOrganisations":[],"artistMakerPeople":[],"materials":[{"text":"gouache","id":"AAT70114"},{"text":"ruled paper","id":"x45569"}],"techniques":[{"text":"painting","id":"x30598"},{"text":"copper engraving","id":"AAT190531"}],"materialsAndTechniques":"painted in gouache on copper engraved ruled paper","categories":[{"text":"Designs","id":"THES48968"},{"text":"Textiles","id":"THES48885"}],"styles":[{"text":"Rococo","id":"AAT21155"}],"collectionCode":{"text":"PDP","id":"THES48595"},"images":[],"imageResolution":"high","galleryLocations":[{"current":{"text":"LVLC (VA)","id":"THES49171"},"free":"","case":"3H","shelf":"18","box":""}],"partTypes":[[{"text":"designs","id":"AAT102051"}]],"contentWarnings":[{"apprise":"","note":""}],"placesOfOrigin":[{"place":{"text":"Lyon","id":"x29500"},"association":{"text":"designed and made","id":"x39722"},"note":""}],"productionDates":[{"date":{"text":"1769","earliest":"1769-01-01","latest":"1769-12-31"},"association":{"text":"designed and made","id":"x39722"},"note":""}],"associatedObjects":[],"creditLine":"","dimensions":[{"dimension":"Width","value":"55","unit":"cm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"","note":""},{"dimension":"Height","value":"19.1","unit":"cm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"","note":""}],"dimensionsNote":"","marksAndInscriptions":[{"content":"L. Galy, Gallien et Cie.\r\n1 mars 1769\r\nNo. 1370 satin en dorures de 8 en 12, 17 dix[aines] à Répétition\r\n\r\nOn the front the paper is engraved on one edge with '8 en 12 chez Veret a Lion'","inscriber":{"name":{"text":"","id":""},"association":{"text":"","id":""}},"date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"description":"","interpretation":"","language":"","medium":"","method":"","position":"","script":"","translation":"L. Galy, Gallien et cie.\r\n1 March 1769\r\nSAtin with metal thread... 17 dezines in the repeat\r\n\r\n'8 en 12 at Veret's in Lyon'","transliteration":"","type":"","note":"The colours of the weft are combined into eight lashes. The inscription records that the design belonged to this partnership, for whom it had probably been made by an inhouse designer or bought from a freelance designer."}],"objectHistory":"Made for the firm of L.Galy, Gallien et cie., this and the other designs of this type were passed down through the partnership. They subsequently came into the hands of a designer called Robert Ruepp of 7 rue Bergère in Paris, who exhibited silks at the Great Exhibitions in Paris in 1900 and in 1925. They subsequently came into the ownership of Sir Frank Warner (of Warner and Co.) and then in 1972 into the collections of the V&A.","historicalContext":"","briefDescription":"for woven silk, 1769, French; Galy Gallien, floral stripes","bibliographicReferences":[{"reference":{"text":"","id":""},"details":"","free":"Lesley Ellis Miller, 'Mysterious Manufacturers: Situating L. Galy, Gallien et Compe. in the Eighteenth-Century Lyons Silk Industry', <i>Studies in the Decorative Arts</i>, Vol. IX:2, Spring-summer 2002, p. 91"},{"reference":{"text":"","id":""},"details":"","free":"Natalie Rothstein, <i>Silk Designs of the Eighteenth Century</i>, Thames and Hudson, 1990, p. 249"}],"production":"","productionType":{"text":"Design","id":"THES48872"},"contentDescription":"","contentPlaces":[],"associatedPlaces":[],"contentPerson":[],"associatedPerson":[],"contentOrganisations":[],"associatedOrganisations":[],"contentPeople":[],"associatedPeople":[],"contentEvents":[],"associatedEvents":[],"contentOthers":[{"text":"flowers","id":"x35571"}],"contentConcepts":[],"contentLiteraryRefs":[],"galleryLabels":[],"partNumbers":["T.401-1972"],"accessionNumberNum":"401","accessionNumberPrefix":"T","accessionYear":1972,"otherNumbers":[],"copyNumber":"","aspects":["WHOLE"],"assets":[],"recordModificationDate":"2025-05-07","recordCreationDate":"2009-06-24","availableToBook":false}}