{"meta":{"version":"2.1","_links":{"self":{"href":"https://api.vam.ac.uk/v2/object/O285001"},"collection_page":{"href":"https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O285001/"}},"images":null,"see_also":null},"record":{"systemNumber":"O285001","accessionNumber":"T.407-1972","objectType":"Design","titles":[],"summaryDescription":"This design is a preparatory technical drawing for a patterned silk. It acted as instructions for the weaver about how to tie up the threads on the loom and then weave in the pattern. It belongs to an archive of similar designs commissioned by a silk manufacturing partnership active in Lyon — the most prestigious centre of the silk industry in Europe from the 1660s onwards — and corresponds in style to the 1760s when patterns were curvaceous. The partnership was called L. Galy, Gallien et cie from 1761 until the beginning of 1771 and it was one of Lyon’s 400 manufacturing concerns mid-century. It kept good records, noting on the back of the designs the number of the design and minimal instructions on how it should be woven.\r\n\r\nThis design was for a patterned silk with a plain background, approximately 54 centimetres wide. It would have had this motif repeated across the width at least twice. In Lyon, manufacturing regulations dictated the widths in which such silks might be woven.","physicalDescription":"<i>Mise-en-carte</i> or draft for a woven silk, painted in gouache on copper engraved ruled paper. Pattern of lace meander, ribbon,  stripe and floral. On the back the inscription recorded below and the method of tying the lashes on the loom.","artistMakerPerson":[{"name":{"text":"Unknown","id":"A1848"},"association":{"text":"","id":""},"note":""}],"artistMakerOrganisations":[],"artistMakerPeople":[],"materials":[{"text":"gouache","id":"AAT70114"},{"text":"ruled paper","id":"x45569"}],"techniques":[{"text":"painting","id":"x30598"},{"text":"copper engraving","id":"AAT190531"}],"materialsAndTechniques":"painted in gouache on copper engraved paper","categories":[{"text":"Textiles","id":"THES48885"},{"text":"Designs","id":"THES48968"}],"styles":[{"text":"Rococo","id":"AAT21155"}],"collectionCode":{"text":"PDP","id":"THES48595"},"images":[],"imageResolution":"high","galleryLocations":[{"current":{"text":"LVLC","id":"THES49171"},"free":"","case":"T","shelf":"204","box":""}],"partTypes":[[{"text":"designs","id":"AAT102051"}]],"contentWarnings":[{"apprise":"","note":""}],"placesOfOrigin":[{"place":{"text":"Lyon","id":"x29500"},"association":{"text":"designed and made","id":"x39722"},"note":""}],"productionDates":[{"date":{"text":"1762","earliest":"1762-01-01","latest":"1762-12-31"},"association":{"text":"designed and made","id":"x39722"},"note":""}],"associatedObjects":[],"creditLine":"","dimensions":[{"dimension":"Width","value":"54","unit":"cm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"","note":""},{"dimension":"Height","value":"39.1","unit":"cm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"","note":""}],"dimensionsNote":"","marksAndInscriptions":[{"content":"L. Galy, Gallien et compe.\r\n14 septembre 1762\r\nNo. 759 Taff[eta] en soye de 8 en 10 36 dix[ain]es à Répétition","inscriber":{"name":{"text":"","id":""},"association":{"text":"","id":""}},"date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"description":"","interpretation":"","language":"","medium":"","method":"","position":"","script":"","translation":"L. Galy, Gallien and co.\r\n14 September 1762\r\nNo. 759 Taffeta with coloured silks, 36 dezines in the repeat.","transliteration":"","type":"","note":"The colours are combined into six lashes."}],"objectHistory":"Made for the firm of L.Galy, Gallien et cie., this and the other designs of this type were passed down through the partnership. They subsequently came into the hands of a designer called Robert Ruepp of 7 rue Bergère in Paris, who exhibited silks at the Great Exhibitions in Paris in 1900 and in 1925. They subsequently came into the ownership of Sir Frank Warner (of Warner and Co.) and then in 1972 into the collections of the V&A.","historicalContext":"","briefDescription":"for silk, 1762, French; Galy Gallien, lace meander, red, ribbon stripe","bibliographicReferences":[{"reference":{"text":"","id":""},"details":"","free":"Natalie Rothstein. <i>Silk Designs of the Eighteenth Century. In the Collection of the Victoria and Albert Museum, London</i>, London, 1990, p.250."},{"reference":{"text":"","id":""},"details":"","free":"Natalie Rothstein. <i>Silk Designs of the Eighteenth Century. In the Collection of the Victoria and Albert Museum, London</i>, London, 1990, p.250."},{"reference":{"text":"","id":""},"details":"","free":"Lesley Ellis Miller, 'Mysterious Manufacturers: Situating L. Galy, Gallien et Compe. in the Eighteenth-Century Lyons Silk Industry', <i>Studies in the Decorative Arts</i>, Vol. IX:2, Spring-summer 2002, p. 90"}],"production":"One of a group of designs made for the silk-weaving partnership of L.Galy, Gallien et compe. between 1761 and 1769. The designer may have been Daniel Symiand (d. 1789) whom they employed for a time.","productionType":{"text":"Design","id":"THES48872"},"contentDescription":"","contentPlaces":[],"associatedPlaces":[],"contentPerson":[],"associatedPerson":[],"contentOrganisations":[],"associatedOrganisations":[],"contentPeople":[],"associatedPeople":[],"contentEvents":[],"associatedEvents":[],"contentOthers":[{"text":"stripes","id":"AAT10230"},{"text":"flowers","id":"x35571"},{"text":"lace","id":"AAT132861"}],"contentConcepts":[],"contentLiteraryRefs":[],"galleryLabels":[],"partNumbers":["T.407-1972"],"accessionNumberNum":"407","accessionNumberPrefix":"T","accessionYear":1972,"otherNumbers":[],"copyNumber":"","aspects":["WHOLE"],"assets":[],"recordModificationDate":"2025-05-07","recordCreationDate":"2009-06-24","availableToBook":false}}