{"meta":{"version":"2.1","_links":{"self":{"href":"https://api.vam.ac.uk/v2/object/O248764"},"collection_page":{"href":"https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O248764/"}},"images":{"_primary_thumbnail":"https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2010EJ1877/full/!100,100/0/default.jpg","_iiif_image":"https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2010EJ1877/","_alt_iiif_image":[],"imageResolution":"low","_images_meta":[{"assetRef":"2010EJ1877","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2007BP5740","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false}]},"see_also":null},"record":{"systemNumber":"O248764","accessionNumber":"PH.206-1985","objectType":"Photograph","titles":[{"title":"Fashion Shoot, Women in a Bath House","type":"generic title"}],"summaryDescription":"","physicalDescription":"Photograph of women in a bath house, published in Vogue, May 1975.","artistMakerPerson":[{"name":{"text":"Turbeville, Deborah","id":"A26695"},"association":{"text":"photographer","id":"x43821"},"note":""},{"name":{"text":"Turbeville, Deborah","id":"A26695"},"association":{"text":"artist","id":"AAT25103"},"note":"Deborah Turbeville (1932 – 2013) was one of the most revered and influential fashion photographers working during the 1970s and ’80s. Beginning as an editor at Harper’s Bazaar, Turbeville completed a workshop with Richard Avedon before starting her own photographic career in 1966. She worked with magazines including Vogue, Harper’s Bazaar, Nova, and the New York Times Magazine, and with worked with clients such as Comme des Garçons, Guy Laroche, Valentino, and Calvin Klein. Her legacy has helped alter the way we view women in fashion imagery."}],"artistMakerOrganisations":[],"artistMakerPeople":[],"materials":[{"text":"photographic paper","id":"AAT14190"}],"techniques":[{"text":"gelatin silver process","id":"AAT139114"}],"materialsAndTechniques":"Gelatin silver print","categories":[{"text":"Gender and Sexuality","id":"THES48940"}],"styles":[],"collectionCode":{"text":"PDP","id":"THES48595"},"images":["2010EJ1877","2007BP5740"],"imageResolution":"low","galleryLocations":[{"current":{"text":"LVLF","id":"THES49656"},"free":"","case":"X","shelf":"1000","box":"F"}],"partTypes":[[{"text":"photograph","id":"AAT46300"}]],"contentWarnings":[{"apprise":"","note":""}],"placesOfOrigin":[{"place":{"text":"","id":""},"association":{"text":"","id":""},"note":"In an era and industry defined by the male gaze, Turbeville’s hauntingly eerie fashion photographs reject the highly sexualized colour photographs favoured in the 1970s and 80s. Unlike her male peers Guy Bourdin and Helmut Newton, Turbeville photographed in dreamy black and white, often in surprising locations; her subjects are aloof and detached yet distinctly feminine. This fashion shoot was conducted in a depilated Manhattan bath house and was considered controversial at the time due to its association with lesbianism, asylums, and Auschwitz. Turbeville would often manipulate her negatives to provide commentary on fashion’s exploitation of women — scratching, tearing and distressing them — to make the finished images redolent of decay. She employed faded tones and her prints were often deliberately overexposed, rendering subjects spectral and melancholic. "}],"productionDates":[{"date":{"text":"1975","earliest":"1975-01-01","latest":"1975-12-31"},"association":{"text":"made","id":"x28654"},"note":""}],"associatedObjects":[],"creditLine":"","dimensions":[{"dimension":"Height","value":"507","unit":"mm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"09/06/2014","earliest":"2014-06-09","latest":"2014-06-09"},"part":"Paper","note":""},{"dimension":"Width","value":"405","unit":"mm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"09/06/2014","earliest":"2014-06-09","latest":"2014-06-09"},"part":"Paper","note":""},{"dimension":"Height","value":"396","unit":"mm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"09/06/2014","earliest":"2014-06-09","latest":"2014-06-09"},"part":"Image","note":""},{"dimension":"Width","value":"389","unit":"mm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"09/06/2014","earliest":"2014-06-09","latest":"2014-06-09"},"part":"Image","note":""}],"dimensionsNote":"","marksAndInscriptions":[],"objectHistory":"","historicalContext":"","briefDescription":"Photograph by Deborah Turbeville, 'Women in a Bath House', gelatin silver print, published in American Vogue, May 1975. Fashion: Jaeger, Stephen Burrows, Jaeger, Lois Anderson, Dior","bibliographicReferences":[],"production":"","productionType":{"text":"","id":""},"contentDescription":"","contentPlaces":[],"associatedPlaces":[],"contentPerson":[],"associatedPerson":[],"contentOrganisations":[],"associatedOrganisations":[],"contentPeople":[],"associatedPeople":[],"contentEvents":[],"associatedEvents":[],"contentOthers":[],"contentConcepts":[],"contentLiteraryRefs":[],"galleryLabels":[{"text":"‘Selling Dreams: One Hundred Years of Fashion Photography’, 2014. Label text:\r\n\r\nDeborah Turbeville (b.1938)\r\nThe Bath House\r\nModels wear fashion by Jean-Louis Scherrer, Stephen Burrows, André Courrèges and Emanuel Ungaro\r\nAmerican Vogue, 1975\r\n\r\nIn her series of photographs made in an abandoned New York bath house, Turbeville refers back to a long history of bathing scenes painted by male artists. The images caused outrage among contemporary critics, who believed the work promoted lesbianism and trivialized the horrors of the Holocaust gas chambers.\r\n\r\nGelatin silver print\r\nMuseum no. PH.206-1985\r\n","date":{"text":"07 03 2014","earliest":"2014-03-07","latest":"2014-03-07"}}],"partNumbers":["PH.206-1985"],"accessionNumberNum":"206","accessionNumberPrefix":"PH","accessionYear":1985,"otherNumbers":[],"copyNumber":"","aspects":["WHOLE"],"assets":[],"recordModificationDate":"2025-04-11","recordCreationDate":"2009-06-12","availableToBook":false}}