{"meta":{"version":"2.1","_links":{"self":{"href":"https://api.vam.ac.uk/v2/object/O24338"},"collection_page":{"href":"https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O24338/"}},"images":{"_primary_thumbnail":"https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2006BE6667/full/!100,100/0/default.jpg","_iiif_image":"https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2006BE6667/","_alt_iiif_image":[],"imageResolution":"high","_images_meta":[{"assetRef":"2006BE6667","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2006BB1345","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false}]},"see_also":{"_iiif_pres":"https://iiif.vam.ac.uk/collections/O24338/manifest.json","_alt_iiif_pres":[]}},"record":{"systemNumber":"O24338","accessionNumber":"FE.29-1983","objectType":"Shawl","titles":[],"summaryDescription":"This type of embroidered, fringed shawl is frequently known by its nickname, the <i>mantón de manila</i> or the 'Manila Shawl', because they were made by Chinese embroiderers or traded by Chinese traders from Manila, Philippines, for export to Seville, Spain. \r\n\r\nThe Philippines came under Spanish rule in from 1565 as the Spanish East Indies, and was administered under the Viceroyalty of New Spain (with its capital in Mexico City) until 1821. In 1821, colonial administration was handed over directly to Spain, and direct trade opened between Manila and Seville in Southern Spain. Such shawls were commonly depicted as being worn by women from this date. While their popularity as export goods later spread beyond Spain into other parts of Europe, there is a strong likelihood that these shawls originally had very strong associations with the Spanish <i>flamenco</i> dance. \r\n\r\nAlthough made by Chinese artisans, such shawls, and their long fringes were never part of the Chinese clothing tradition. However in the earlier part of the twentieth century, Chinese women began to wear shawls whether in a bid to express the ostentation of being able to afford 'Western-style' dress, or to adapt to 'modern' fashion.","physicalDescription":"Shawl. Black silk crêpe ground embroidered with white twisted silks in satin stitch. Both the central panel and the borders are heavily embroidered with flowers ( plumb blossom, peonies, chrysanthemum and butterflies). Knotted fringe of white twisted threads at sides which, it has been suggested, is of a man-made fibre rather than silk. ","artistMakerPerson":[],"artistMakerOrganisations":[],"artistMakerPeople":[],"materials":[{"text":"Silk textile","id":"AAT243428"},{"text":"silk thread","id":"x30127"}],"techniques":[{"text":"knotting","id":"AAT53635"},{"text":"embroidering","id":"AAT53653"}],"materialsAndTechniques":"Silk crêpe; embroidery in twisted silk threads with knotted fringe, ","categories":[{"text":"Embroidery","id":"THES48960"},{"text":"Textiles","id":"THES48885"},{"text":"Womenswear","id":"THES49044"}],"styles":[{"text":"Qing","id":"AAT18478"},{"text":"Republican China","id":"x44957"}],"collectionCode":{"text":"EAS","id":"THES48596"},"images":["2006BE6667","2006BB1345"],"imageResolution":"high","galleryLocations":[{"current":{"text":"001","id":"THES313091"},"free":"","case":"","shelf":"","box":""}],"partTypes":[[{"text":"Shawl","id":""}]],"contentWarnings":[{"apprise":"","note":""}],"placesOfOrigin":[{"place":{"text":"Guangdong","id":"x29887"},"association":{"text":"made","id":"x28654"},"note":""}],"productionDates":[{"date":{"text":"1880-1920","earliest":"1880-01-01","latest":"1920-12-31"},"association":{"text":"made","id":"x28654"},"note":""}],"associatedObjects":[],"creditLine":"Given by Mrs. N. Iliffe. From the collection of her mother, Lady Pickthorn.","dimensions":[{"dimension":"Height","value":"140.0","unit":"cm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"","note":""},{"dimension":"Width","value":"148.0","unit":"cm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"","note":""}],"dimensionsNote":"Plus 47cm fringe","marksAndInscriptions":[],"objectHistory":"Registered File number 1983/775.","historicalContext":"","briefDescription":"Shawl, silk crêpe; embroidery in twisted silk threads with knotted fringe, Guangdong province, China, Qing dynasty (1644-1911), 1880-1920.","bibliographicReferences":[{"reference":{"text":"","id":""},"details":"","free":"Clunas, Craig, ed. <u>Chinese Export Art and Design.</u> London: Victoria and Albert Museum, 1987. (similar designs: pp. 32-33)  ISBN 1851770003"},{"reference":{"text":"","id":""},"details":"","free":"Wilson, Verity. <u>Chinese textiles.</u> London: V&A publications, 2005, plate 28. ISBN  1851774386"},{"reference":{"text":"Miller, Lesley Ellis, and Ana Cabrera Lafuente, with Claire Allen-Johnstone, eds. <u>Silk: Fibre, Fabric and Fashion</u>. London: Thames & Hudson Ltd in association with the Victoria and Albert Museum, 2021. ISBN 978-0-500-48065-6.","id":"AUTH389403"},"details":"This object features in the publication Silk: Fibre, Fabric and Fashion (2021)","free":""}],"production":"","productionType":{"text":"","id":""},"contentDescription":"","contentPlaces":[],"associatedPlaces":[],"contentPerson":[],"associatedPerson":[],"contentOrganisations":[],"associatedOrganisations":[],"contentPeople":[],"associatedPeople":[],"contentEvents":[],"associatedEvents":[],"contentOthers":[{"text":"butterflies","id":"x30135"},{"text":"chrysanthemums","id":"x30170"},{"text":"peonies","id":"x35844"},{"text":"plum blossom","id":"x36015"}],"contentConcepts":[],"contentLiteraryRefs":[],"galleryLabels":[],"partNumbers":["FE.29-1983"],"accessionNumberNum":"29","accessionNumberPrefix":"FE","accessionYear":1983,"otherNumbers":[],"copyNumber":"","aspects":["WHOLE"],"assets":[],"recordModificationDate":"2026-02-17","recordCreationDate":"2000-02-12","availableToBook":true}}