{"meta":{"version":"2.1","_links":{"self":{"href":"https://api.vam.ac.uk/v2/object/O24336"},"collection_page":{"href":"https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O24336/"}},"images":{"_primary_thumbnail":"https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2021MV0416/full/!100,100/0/default.jpg","_iiif_image":"https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2021MV0416/","_alt_iiif_image":[],"imageResolution":"low","_images_meta":[{"assetRef":"2021MV0416","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2019LY6474","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2021MV0419","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2021MV0417","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2021MV2347","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false}]},"see_also":null},"record":{"systemNumber":"O24336","accessionNumber":"FE.16-1983","objectType":"Skull cap","titles":[{"title":"doppa","type":"generic title"}],"summaryDescription":"The Uygurs wear embroidered skull caps (<i>doppa</i>) as part of their everyday clothing. <i>Doppa</i> serve an important function in Islamic religious practice, and also express their cultural identity. The crown of this cap is made from green velvet, embroidered with coloured sequins, gold threads and clear glass beads stitched in yellow threads, which give a golden hue to the beads. On the top of the cap are four large <i>badam</i> patterns, each in the shape of a teardrop with curved end. <i>Badam</i> is the Persian word for almond, a plant native to Central Asia and Xinjiang. This motif is regularly used in the decoration of local carpets and textiles. Uygur men generally wear the so-called ‘almond’ pattern caps (<i>badam doppa</i>) in white embroidery on black velvet. \n\nBased on a vendor’s note attached to the inside, we know that this is a woman's hat. The donor bought the cap, together with two others (FE.15-1983, FE.17-1983), in the capital city Urumqi in 1980, shortly after China reopened its borders as part of the Open Door Policy.","physicalDescription":"Skull cap for a Uygur woma (<i>doppa</i>) of green velvet with black velvet trimed edge, embroidered with clear glass beads, coloured sequins, and couched gold thread. It is lined with yellow satin and has a stiffened interlining.","artistMakerPerson":[{"name":{"text":"Unknown","id":"A1848"},"association":{"text":"","id":""},"note":""}],"artistMakerOrganisations":[],"artistMakerPeople":[],"materials":[{"text":"beads","id":"x32809"}],"techniques":[{"text":"velvet weave","id":"x46483"},{"text":"satin weave","id":"x37324"},{"text":"embroidered","id":"AAT53653"}],"materialsAndTechniques":"Silk velvet; embroidery in glass beads, sequins and metallic threads, with satin lining and stiffened","categories":[{"text":"Textiles","id":"THES48885"},{"text":"Accessories","id":"THES48998"},{"text":"Embroidery","id":"THES48960"}],"styles":[],"collectionCode":{"text":"EAS","id":"THES48596"},"images":["2021MV0416","2019LY6474","2021MV0419","2021MV0417","2021MV2347"],"imageResolution":"low","galleryLocations":[{"current":{"text":"004","id":"THES327132"},"free":"","case":"","shelf":"","box":""}],"partTypes":[[{"text":"Hat","id":""}]],"contentWarnings":[{"apprise":"","note":""}],"placesOfOrigin":[{"place":{"text":"Xinjiang Uygur Zizhiqu (autonomous region)","id":"x29909"},"association":{"text":"made","id":"x28654"},"note":""}],"productionDates":[{"date":{"text":"ca. 1980","earliest":"1975-01-01","latest":"1980-12-31"},"association":{"text":"made","id":"x28654"},"note":""}],"associatedObjects":[],"creditLine":"Given by Verity Wilson","dimensions":[{"dimension":"Height","value":"10","unit":"cm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"","note":""},{"dimension":"Width","value":"14","unit":"cm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"","note":""},{"dimension":"Depth","value":"14","unit":"cm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"","note":""}],"dimensionsNote":"","marksAndInscriptions":[{"content":"","inscriber":{"name":{"text":"","id":""},"association":{"text":"","id":""}},"date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"description":"","interpretation":"","language":"","medium":"","method":"","position":"","script":"","translation":"Woman's patterned hat costs 8.06 Chinese Yuan","transliteration":"","type":"","note":"Handwritten note in red ink on paper stuck on the lining"}],"objectHistory":"Purchased by the donor in Urumqi, Xinjiang province, October 1980.\r\n\r\nRegistered File number 1981/172.","historicalContext":"Similar examples in the American Museum of Natural History, New York.\r\nSee: <u>A collection of the Xinjiang Uygur folk cap designs</u> ed. Zhang Hengde et al. (Urumqi, 1983)","briefDescription":"Skull cap for a Uygur woman (<i>doppa</i>), green silk velvet, embroidered with glass beads, sequins and metallic threads, lined with yellow satin, acquired from Urumqi, Xinjiang Uygur Autonomous Region, China, ca. 1980.","bibliographicReferences":[],"production":"","productionType":{"text":"","id":""},"contentDescription":"","contentPlaces":[],"associatedPlaces":[],"contentPerson":[],"associatedPerson":[],"contentOrganisations":[],"associatedOrganisations":[],"contentPeople":[],"associatedPeople":[],"contentEvents":[],"associatedEvents":[],"contentOthers":[],"contentConcepts":[],"contentLiteraryRefs":[],"galleryLabels":[{"text":"One of three caps, this one velvet.  The designs are formed in yellow beading, sequins and couched gold thread.\r\nEach ethnic group in Xinjiang has its own decorative conventions, so that caps from different districts are often distinctive.  Uygur caps can also be classified according to the sec, age and profession of the wearer.  For example, the almond caps are mostly worn by men, while the vivid and colourful caps with chequered embroidery are worn by women.  As with costume, the inspiration for the designs comes mainly from nature combined with inherited traditional ornament and with motifs assimilated from other peoples, such as the Han Chinese.\r\n\r\nAll three caps were purchased in 1982 in Urumqi, capital of Xinjiang Uygur Autonomous Region.","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null}}],"partNumbers":["FE.16-1983"],"accessionNumberNum":"16","accessionNumberPrefix":"FE","accessionYear":1983,"otherNumbers":[],"copyNumber":"","aspects":["WHOLE"],"assets":[],"recordModificationDate":"2025-10-02","recordCreationDate":"2000-02-12","availableToBook":false}}