{"meta":{"version":"2.1","_links":{"self":{"href":"https://api.vam.ac.uk/v2/object/O229322"},"collection_page":{"href":"https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O229322/"}},"images":{"_primary_thumbnail":"https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2010EF1446/full/!100,100/0/default.jpg","_iiif_image":"https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2010EF1446/","_alt_iiif_image":[],"imageResolution":"high","_images_meta":[{"assetRef":"2010EF1446","copyright":"©Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false}]},"see_also":{"_iiif_pres":"https://iiif.vam.ac.uk/collections/O229322/manifest.json","_alt_iiif_pres":[]}},"record":{"systemNumber":"O229322","accessionNumber":"E.5069-1905","objectType":"Embroidery design","titles":[{"title":"'Continuatio der Kunst- und Fleiß-übenden Nadel-Ergötzung oder des neu-ersonnenen Besondern Nehe-Bichs dritter Theil'","type":"assigned by artist"},{"title":"'Continuation of Delights of the Art and Industry of the practising Needle or the newly invented Special Sewing Book'","type":""},{"title":"Part III","type":"series title"}],"summaryDescription":"These three printed designs are for embroidered hats featuring floral motifs in corded quilting. This is a quilting technique in which two parallel lines of stitching are made through two layers of cloth, then heavy yarn or soft cord is inserted between the layers. This makes a raised linear pattern. They are from a pattern book for embroidery (about 1725) by Margaretha Helm (neé Mainberger) (born in 1659 in Deiningen, died in 1742 in Nuremberg, Germany). Helm worked in Nuremberg as an embroiderer, a teacher of embroidery, and a copperplate engraver who had her designs published by Johann Christoph Weigel. \r\n\r\nThe V&A has a series of pattern books for embroidery in three parts by Margaretha Helm of which this volume is Part III.  It is entitled <i> Continuatio der Kunst- und Fleiss-übenden Nadel-Ergötzung oder des neu-ersonnenen besondern Nehe-Buchs Dritter Theil</i> or <i>Continuation of the Delights of the Art and Industry of the practising Needle or the newly-invented special Sewing Book Third part.</i>\r\n\r\nCorded quilting was recorded in 1715 by C.S. Corvinus in his <i>Useful, galant and curious Women's Dictionary </i> as a new technique in Germany. It was fashionable in Europe and Britain.  Margaretha Kraus, another designer for embroidery, praised this French technique in the foreword to her pattern book <i>Clear Presentation of various Sketches for commendable Women's Work</i> published in 1727. She stated that 'Marseilles stitching has found the luck that it has been taken up increasingly and become a popular fashion, whereby there is a great demand for useful patterns'.  Numerous examples of dress embellished with corded quilting are in public collections in Britain and Gremany.","physicalDescription":"Printed designs (3) for hats featuring floral motifs on corded quilting.","artistMakerPerson":[{"name":{"text":"Helm, Margaretha","id":"A25444"},"association":{"text":"made","id":"x28674"},"note":""},{"name":{"text":"Weigel, Johann Christoph (the elder)","id":"A25582"},"association":{"text":"published","id":"x28702"},"note":""}],"artistMakerOrganisations":[],"artistMakerPeople":[],"materials":[{"text":"ink","id":"AAT15012"},{"text":"laid paper","id":"AAT14184"}],"techniques":[{"text":"etching (printing process)","id":"AAT53241"},{"text":"copper engraving","id":"AAT190531"}],"materialsAndTechniques":"Engraving and etching on laid paper.","categories":[{"text":"Designs","id":"THES48968"},{"text":"Embroidery","id":"THES48960"},{"text":"Fashion","id":"THES48957"},{"text":"Hats & headwear","id":"THES48943"},{"text":"Europeana Fashion Project","id":"THES265804"}],"styles":[],"collectionCode":{"text":"PDP","id":"THES48595"},"images":["2010EF1446"],"imageResolution":"high","galleryLocations":[{"current":{"text":"LVLD","id":"THES49658"},"free":"","case":"92","shelf":"C","box":"4"}],"partTypes":[[{"text":"print","id":""}]],"contentWarnings":[{"apprise":"","note":""}],"placesOfOrigin":[{"place":{"text":"Nuremberg","id":"x29057"},"association":{"text":"published","id":"x30682"},"note":""}],"productionDates":[{"date":{"text":"ca. 1725","earliest":"1720-01-01","latest":"1729-12-31"},"association":{"text":"made","id":"x28654"},"note":""}],"associatedObjects":[],"creditLine":"","dimensions":[{"dimension":"Height","value":"31","unit":"cm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"Size of plate","note":""},{"dimension":"Width","value":"40.3","unit":"cm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"Size of plate.","note":""}],"dimensionsNote":"","marksAndInscriptions":[{"content":"'18'","inscriber":{"name":{"text":"","id":""},"association":{"text":"","id":""}},"date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"description":"","interpretation":"","language":"","medium":"","method":"","position":"","script":"","translation":"","transliteration":"","type":"","note":"Plate number in ink at bottom right hand corner of page."},{"content":"'3 Theil häuben'","inscriber":{"name":{"text":"","id":""},"association":{"text":"","id":""}},"date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"description":"","interpretation":"","language":"","medium":"","method":"","position":"","script":"","translation":"'3 Part hats'","transliteration":"","type":"","note":"Inscription below the design. The German word 'Teil' for part is spelt 'Theil' on this design."}],"objectHistory":"","historicalContext":"","briefDescription":"Printed designs (3) for hats to be embroidered in corded quilting from a pattern book about 1725 by Margaretha Helm (1659-1742)","bibliographicReferences":[{"reference":{"text":"","id":""},"details":"","free":"Ludwig, H. <u> Nürnberger naturgeschichtliche Maleria im 17. und 18. Jahrhundert. </u> Mahrburg an der Lahn: Basilisken-Presse, 1998. pp.255 and 333."},{"reference":{"text":"","id":""},"details":"","free":"<u> Nürnberger Künstlerlexikon. </u> München: Manfred H. Grieb, 2007."},{"reference":{"text":"","id":""},"details":"","free":"Will, G.A. <u> Supplement zu dem Nürnbergischen Gelehrten Lexicon oder Beschreibung derienigen Personen welche in den Buchstaben A bis Z vischer gänzlich ausgelassen worden sind. </u> Nürnberg, 4, p.421."},{"reference":{"text":"","id":""},"details":"","free":"Amaranthes pseudonym for Corvinus, G.S. <i> Nutzbares galantes und curiöses Frauenzimmer-Lexicon </i>, Leipzig: 1715, p.1238."},{"reference":{"text":"","id":""},"details":"","free":"Kraus, Margaretha. <i>Deutliche Vorstellung verschiedener Risse zur löblichen Frauen-Zimmer Arbeit</i>, Nürnberg, zufinden bey Johann Christoph Weigels Kunsthandlers, Seel, Wittib,' 1727, Vorbericht."},{"reference":{"text":"","id":""},"details":"","free":"<u>Victoria and Albert Museum, Department of Engraving, Illustration and Design & Department of Paintings, Accessions 1933</u>, London: Printed under the Authority of the Board of Education 1934"}],"production":"These printed designs by Helm are catalogued as Helmin, the feminine form of Helm, in the Micromedia online catalogue.","productionType":{"text":"Design","id":"THES48872"},"contentDescription":"","contentPlaces":[],"associatedPlaces":[],"contentPerson":[],"associatedPerson":[],"contentOrganisations":[],"associatedOrganisations":[],"contentPeople":[],"associatedPeople":[],"contentEvents":[],"associatedEvents":[],"contentOthers":[{"text":"floral motifs","id":"x43416"},{"text":"hats","id":"AAT46106"},{"text":"caps","id":"AAT46094"}],"contentConcepts":[],"contentLiteraryRefs":[],"galleryLabels":[],"partNumbers":["E.5069-1905"],"accessionNumberNum":"5069","accessionNumberPrefix":"E","accessionYear":1905,"otherNumbers":[],"copyNumber":"","aspects":["WHOLE"],"assets":[],"recordModificationDate":"2025-04-21","recordCreationDate":"2009-05-01","availableToBook":false}}