{"meta":{"version":"2.1","_links":{"self":{"href":"https://api.vam.ac.uk/v2/object/O228473"},"collection_page":{"href":"https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O228473/"}},"images":{"_primary_thumbnail":"https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2008BU3462/full/!100,100/0/default.jpg","_iiif_image":"https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2008BU3462/","_alt_iiif_image":[],"imageResolution":"low","_images_meta":[{"assetRef":"2008BU3462","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false},{"assetRef":"2008BU3512","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false}]},"see_also":null},"record":{"systemNumber":"O228473","accessionNumber":"T.901-1974","objectType":"Hat","titles":[],"summaryDescription":"The couturier Charles James (1906-1978) began his career as a milliner in Chicago. He opened his own shop in 1926 under the label 'Charles Boucheron'. In 1928 he began designing dresses using the same 3-dimensional constructive approach found in millinery. James referred to himself as a 'sartorial structural architect'. \r\n\r\nThis hat is made of one piece of grosgrain silk fabric which is cut and folded in an origami style to create a peaked hat with a crown which flows into a high blunt brim. It came straight from the studio of Charles James into the V&A collections and retains a paper label stitched to the side, which reads PLEASE DO NOT UNPICK SEAMS OR STITCHES, presumably a warning to those working with fabrics in his studio.The hat is a great example of James's structural approach and his talent for creating volume out of flat materials.","physicalDescription":"Hat, black silk grosgrain with a pronounced diagonal rib, made as a high, pointed cap and then the high point flattened and folded sharply down in an origami effect","artistMakerPerson":[{"name":{"text":"James, Charles","id":"A2228"},"association":{"text":"designer","id":"AAT25190"},"note":""}],"artistMakerOrganisations":[],"artistMakerPeople":[],"materials":[{"text":"grosgrain","id":"x32508"}],"techniques":[{"text":"millinery","id":"x39135"}],"materialsAndTechniques":"Silk grosgrain","categories":[{"text":"Fashion","id":"THES48957"},{"text":"Hats and headwear","id":"THES48943"},{"text":"Clothing","id":"THES48975"},{"text":"Accessories","id":"THES48998"}],"styles":[],"collectionCode":{"text":"T&F","id":"THES48601"},"images":["2008BU3462","2008BU3512"],"imageResolution":"low","galleryLocations":[{"current":{"text":"003","id":"THES326218"},"free":"","case":"","shelf":"","box":""}],"partTypes":[[{"text":"hat","id":""}]],"contentWarnings":[{"apprise":"","note":""}],"placesOfOrigin":[{"place":{"text":"London","id":"x28980"},"association":{"text":"made","id":"x28654"},"note":""}],"productionDates":[{"date":{"text":"1936","earliest":"1936-01-01","latest":"1936-12-31"},"association":{"text":"made","id":"x28654"},"note":""}],"associatedObjects":[],"creditLine":"Given by the designer","dimensions":[{"dimension":"Width","value":"17.5","unit":"cm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"front 'flap'","note":"External"},{"dimension":"Width","value":"27","unit":"cm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"ear to ear","note":"external"},{"dimension":"Length","value":"29.5","unit":"cm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"front to back","note":"external"},{"dimension":"Width","value":"20.5","unit":"cm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"ear to ear","note":"Inside crown"},{"dimension":"Length","value":"25","unit":"cm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"approx","note":"Inside crown"}],"dimensionsNote":"","marksAndInscriptions":[{"content":"PLEASE DO NOT UNPICK SEAMS OR STITCHES","inscriber":{"name":{"text":"","id":""},"association":{"text":"","id":""}},"date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"description":"","interpretation":"","language":"","medium":"","method":"","position":"","script":"","translation":"","transliteration":"","type":"","note":"Paper label attached to hat on one side in Charles James' writing"}],"objectHistory":"The hat forms part of the Cecil Beaton Collection which was brought together by the late Sir Cecil Beaton. With great energy and determination Sir Cecil contacted the well-dressed elite of Europe and America to bring this lasting monument to the art of dress. The collection was exhibited in 1971, accompanied by a catalogue which detailed its enormous range. (catalogue no. 159 page 33).","historicalContext":"","briefDescription":"Black silk hat, English, 1936, Charles James","bibliographicReferences":[],"production":"","productionType":{"text":"Haute couture","id":"THES48861"},"contentDescription":"","contentPlaces":[],"associatedPlaces":[],"contentPerson":[],"associatedPerson":[],"contentOrganisations":[],"associatedOrganisations":[],"contentPeople":[],"associatedPeople":[],"contentEvents":[],"associatedEvents":[],"contentOthers":[],"contentConcepts":[],"contentLiteraryRefs":[],"galleryLabels":[],"partNumbers":["T.901-1974"],"accessionNumberNum":"901","accessionNumberPrefix":"T","accessionYear":1974,"otherNumbers":[],"copyNumber":"","aspects":["WHOLE"],"assets":[],"recordModificationDate":"2025-08-10","recordCreationDate":"2009-04-27","availableToBook":true}}