{"meta":{"version":"2.1","_links":{"self":{"href":"https://api.vam.ac.uk/v2/object/O228444"},"collection_page":{"href":"https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O228444/"}},"images":{"_primary_thumbnail":"https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2006BC6436/full/!100,100/0/default.jpg","_iiif_image":"https://framemark.vam.ac.uk/collections/2006BC6436/","_alt_iiif_image":[],"imageResolution":"high","_images_meta":[{"assetRef":"2006BC6436","copyright":"© Victoria and Albert Museum, London","sensitiveImage":false}]},"see_also":{"_iiif_pres":"https://iiif.vam.ac.uk/collections/O228444/manifest.json","_alt_iiif_pres":[]}},"record":{"systemNumber":"O228444","accessionNumber":"T.52-1970","objectType":"Robe","titles":[{"title":"","type":""}],"summaryDescription":"This type of embroidered and edged cuff was worn by people of Manchu origin.  They introduced it to China when they took power there in the seventeenth century.  The Chinese term for this shape of cuff is translated as 'horse-hoof', an appropriate name because both Manchu men and women were skilled horse riders.  There is no suggestion that this particular garment was worn for riding: the shape of the cuff is a feature intended to be reminiscent of the nomadic cultural roots of the Manchu people.  The cuff is in contrasting material to the rest of the garment, a common dressmaking feature of ladies' robes from this part of the world for some centuries.  There are two bands of coloured silk embroidery on black satin and, although both bands have the same design of flowers and butterflies, each is on a slightly different scale.  They are edged in a braid of gold-wrapped thread and a strip of woven gold silk.  The rest of the gown, which may date from the eighteenth century, is quite different, being made from a soft yellow satin embroidered in a limited palette of pale blues and white.  It has a floral theme, like the cuffs, and a vertically striped hem of the kind seen throughout the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries on both men's and women's clothes.","physicalDescription":"Woman's robe of 'incense' yellow (xiangse) satin, with roundels in pale turquoise, blue and white embroidered on the main part, and waves and rock formation at the bottom along the hem (lishui and jiangya). Horse hoof sleeves are embroidered with brightly coloured peonies and butterflies. The robe is lined with pink silk along body of robe and light blue silk under sleeve-arms.","artistMakerPerson":[{"name":{"text":"Unknown","id":"C168"},"association":{"text":"","id":""},"note":""}],"artistMakerOrganisations":[],"artistMakerPeople":[],"materials":[{"text":"silk textile","id":"AAT243428"},{"text":"silk thread","id":"x30127"}],"techniques":[{"text":"satin weave","id":"x37324"},{"text":"embroidering","id":"AAT53653"}],"materialsAndTechniques":"Satin-weave silk; embroidery in coloured silks","categories":[{"text":"Womenswear","id":"THES49044"},{"text":"Embroidery","id":"THES48960"},{"text":"Fashion","id":"THES48957"},{"text":"Textiles","id":"THES48885"}],"styles":[{"text":"Qing","id":"AAT18478"}],"collectionCode":{"text":"EAS","id":"THES48596"},"images":["2006BC6436"],"imageResolution":"high","galleryLocations":[{"current":{"text":"003","id":"THES313093"},"free":"","case":"","shelf":"","box":""}],"partTypes":[[{"text":"Woman's robe","id":""}]],"contentWarnings":[{"apprise":"","note":""}],"placesOfOrigin":[{"place":{"text":"China","id":"x29398"},"association":{"text":"made","id":"x28654"},"note":""}],"productionDates":[{"date":{"text":"1736-1820","earliest":"1736-01-01","latest":"1820-12-31"},"association":{"text":"made","id":"x28654"},"note":"possibly during the reigns of the Qianlong and Jiaqing Emperors"}],"associatedObjects":[],"creditLine":"Bequeathed by Dame Ada MacNaghten","dimensions":[{"dimension":"Length","value":"128","unit":"cm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"","note":""},{"dimension":"Width","value":"170","unit":"cm","qualifier":"","date":{"text":"","earliest":null,"latest":null},"part":"sleeve to sleeve","note":""}],"dimensionsNote":"","marksAndInscriptions":[],"objectHistory":"","historicalContext":"","briefDescription":"Robe for a Manchu woman (jiapao), satin-weave silk; embroidery in coloured silks, China, Qing dynasty, 1736-1820","bibliographicReferences":[],"production":"","productionType":{"text":"","id":""},"contentDescription":"","contentPlaces":[],"associatedPlaces":[],"contentPerson":[],"associatedPerson":[],"contentOrganisations":[],"associatedOrganisations":[],"contentPeople":[],"associatedPeople":[],"contentEvents":[],"associatedEvents":[],"contentOthers":[],"contentConcepts":[],"contentLiteraryRefs":[],"galleryLabels":[{"text":"ROBE FOR A MANCHU WOMAN\r\n1736-1820, Qing dynasty\r\nThe qipao has its roots in the dress of the Manchu elite who ruled China between 1644 and 1911. Their garments, both male and female, were characterised by narrow sleeves and hoof-shaped cuffs, features that referred to the horse-riding and hunting traditions of their nomadic ancestors.\r\n\r\nEmbroidery on silk\r\n\r\nDame Edna Macnaghten Bequest\r\nMuseum no. T.52-1970 ","date":{"text":"05/02/2010","earliest":"2010-02-05","latest":"2010-02-05"}}],"partNumbers":["T.52-1970"],"accessionNumberNum":"52","accessionNumberPrefix":"T","accessionYear":1970,"otherNumbers":[],"copyNumber":"","aspects":["WHOLE"],"assets":[],"recordModificationDate":"2026-05-24","recordCreationDate":"2009-04-24","availableToBook":true}}